Adamw

The main differences off the top of my head: G4+ will be a bit more manual to setup in terms of the CAN, but not difficult. G4+ doesnt send PWM aux outputs over CAN - only on/off. But there are usually workarounds for this - for example if you wanted a variable speed fan you could send coolant temp to the PDM instead and do the speed control logic in the PDM. G4X can accept a lot more different types of CAN inputs - analog, frequency, digital, temp etc. G4X has PDM channels built-in so you can for example log currents and voltages of PDM pins in the ecu. Pin 4 powers the PDM up, the PDM would need to be powered up for the keypad to work so there would usually be a hardware ignition switch or isolator/master switch controlling that pin.

Can you measure the voltage on DI6/pin 87 with the AC switch on and off.

Scope looks ok. Can you attach a log showing the problem and a copy of the tune.

G4X what? A wire-in or plug-in? Our E36 plug-in ecu is only suitable for the M50tu with vanos, the non-vanos M50 pinout is completely different.

As I already said, the power supply wont affect the accuracy. If the lambda is working without reporting errors then it has an adequate power supply. If the engine is running with 2.1 lambda being measured then it is likely an air leak or a misfire pushing oxygen through the exhaust.

They shouldnt even fit.

Can you give more info about what ECU and car? The AN volt inputs wont display anything higher than 5.0V so where are you seeing 6.45V?

Yeah it doesnt matter, you can reverse the action using the active state setting.

You will need to explain better what ecu you have and how it was wired. The only thing you have mentioned is it has a wiring specialties harness which doesnt tell us a lot. Did they not give you any documentation to show what is wired to what?

Are these definitely connected to CAN2 and not CAN1?

That is still an ecu log, not a PC log. You need to do a PC Log, as Vaughan mentioned already you start and stop the PC log using the F8 key and there will be a green indicator at the top right of your screen that says "PC Log = Record" when you are recording. I will also move your post to the G4+ section since you don't have a G4X.

I just looked at a log from our FD race car, 3 wheel speeds start working reliably by about 20kmh, the 4th one not until 30kmh. Possibly the air gap is a bit bigger on that one.

I believe there are a couple of different types, the most basic kits just have a washer type thing that fits on the cable pedal side and locks the cable barrel part direct to the throttle shaft. With this type you cant use the E-throttle. There is another type which has a new quadrant gear that allows the e-throttle to still do idle control but the main movement comes from the pedal.

Sorry not sure what you mean? The ECU connection on the AEM dash is usually CAN2, CAN1 is used for their other accessories. You can use CAN1 if you wish, just the plug labelled ecu on their loom is CAN 2.

Yeah it looks like the crank signal is usable. The ecu missed the gap on the first revolution as the crank done a sudden slow down right near the missing tooth but I think that will probably improve once it is running more often and with a more optimised tune etc. I have numbered the teeth on the crank wheel in the pic below. Sync tooth 1 is the first tooth after the missing tooth. We see maximum depression on the MAP sensor at sync tooth 10 or 11. The MAP sensor voltage is normally about 3.94V (~94kPa) and drops to about 1.83V (~48kPa)at sync tooth 10. So I would initially set the MAP sync up with sync tooth 10 and a MAP offset of -25kPa as you may not always get the ~46kPa depression if you have to adjust the throttle stop for idle or something later.

Is there an alarm or non-factory immobiliser system? Anything non-factory wired to aux outputs such as fuel pump relays or boost valves?

If you are not seeing DI4 change status then the problem is on the input side. Start by checking the voltage on the DI4 pin with AC switch on and off. It needs to go above about 1.8V for one status and below about 1V for the other.

You have the throttle disabled in your "new firmware" map. It wasn't in the previous "new firmware" map so that must have been something you changed since.

Fan override on button 3 looks correct. Simple button 1 & 2 inputs need to be assigned to the DI you want to use to perform the function. Before you had CAN DI 1 set to both simple button 1, and table button 1, so that's why I turn those off. Your speed sensor looks correct except for the calibration will likely need adjustment.

Hmm, not as black and white as I was hoping to see, but Im pretty sure that probably does already have a DBW delete kit in it. Looking at a map I have from a working throttle the TPS main moved about 3.45V from full closed to full open, yours shows about 3.2V. From what I remember if they arent powered and dont have the delete kit, they only move less than half the normal range. Perhaps you can throw a brick on the pedal and have a look if the blade is fully open or not.

It looks like quite an acceptable starting point, you can see on quick movements your motor DC is pegged on the max clamp the whole way open so the ecu is sending full power, it cant physically move any faster and giving it more P isn't going to improve anything. The only thing to keep in mind is when the engine is running the battery voltage will be ~2V higher than what you have been testing with so sometimes you have to soften the PID a little later. Check the 3 error accumulators in the logs after the first drive, if any of them go above a count of about 10 for say more than a second during normal driving then that would indicate it may need a bit more tuning. Give the motor DC trend an eyeball too, if you see rapid oscillations when the pedal isn't moving then the PID needs taming down.

Your dash setup looks ok as is, but the ecu set up should look like below. Bits in blue are what you need to change:

The power supply wont affect accuracy. However its good to have as stable voltage as possible as many of the sensor tests that the CAN lambda performs to confirm the sensor is good rely on it being stable. I dont know the R33 chassis well enough to suggest a particular relay, but you could look at a wiring diagram for a relay that gets its power as directly as possible from the battery and with no "noisy" devices connected such as ignition coils etc.

Erratic ROC (and some nice timing scatter at high RPM to go with it), is just the nature of a high resolution trigger that is connected to a 4 cyl camshaft (extreme resonance) with a whole lot of mechanical backlash between what the crank is doing and the CAS is doing. ROC is generally not used for a lot so as long as dwell is reasonably stable it is not usually of any consequence. There is further ROC channel with a user configurable filter in the knock control function that you can use for other purposes if needed. Unrelated comment, but if you increase your MAP lockout to about 70Kpa in idle control settings that will likely solve your idle oscillation.

The ECU has no such feature. It is likely a wiring issue causing a back feed as Vaughan mentioned.