Adamw

This is intentional as dx4picco suggests.  LTFT will not be "learning" when CLL is disabled, but the learned trim from the table will always be applied.  There is a "disable input" in the LTFT settings that you can use to disable both learning and the trim under any conditions you think it is not wanted.  

You should read the help page; PCLink G5 User Manual > User Interface > Layouts and Views > Views to get a more complete answer, but as a quick comment, if you want more than one settings view then you need to lock the existing one (click the padlock at the top left corner of the view).  Further, if you want 2 copies of the same table (for example one in tabular view and one in surface view) then lock the first one and shift click to add the second. 
You can also hold down ctrl when clicking a ecu settings tree menu to get the whole menu in one settings view.  

I have made some changes to your map, you can use the file compare function to see the changes.  Mostly the dog unload stage is too long, this only needs to be just long enough to get the dogs unlocked, usually about 20ms.  I also changed some of your ecu log settings as some important channels were not logged and some were logged too slow to allow gear shift tuning.  
If you can provide a new log of some gear shifts using this map then we can probably suggest some further improvements.  Most likely we can change to gear position for end shift mode and use shaft speed matching to get a nicer closed loop shift.  
EG6 Gear Shift V5.pclx

[email protected]

I think splicing into a wheel speed sensor will likely work in this car, It will depend on how sophisticated their fault checking is and whether the -ve is isolated from ground or not (the diagnostics manual suggests it is not isolated).  
The easiest access is probably in the main ABS unit connector.  Pin 9 is the FL wheel speed signal, try splicing into this and connect it to a spare DI on the ECU.  In the ecu software, set FL wheel speed to the DI you connected it to, make sure the pull-up is off, set the calibration to say 1000 as a starting point and go for a drive to see if you get a speed reported in the ecu and no ABS lights on the dash.  
If that works then report back and I will give further info on how to get the speed signal to the dash.  

 

0% would mean the mixture map would only use any sample that was measured when the engine was operating in the exact centre of the cell.  100% would mean the measurement would be used any time the engine was operating anywhere in the cell (this means there is potentially a lot of influence from adjacent untuned cells).  About 30% would be a decent compromise for road tuning.  
 
Be aware the filters are used to specify what data to "include".  If you want to filter out transients then make sure the "<" operator is selected.
 
What do you mean by "it does not work"?  Does the idle speed not increase or decrease if you change base position?  If not I would pull the valve off and check the brass barrel freely moves, the bosch ones are prone to seizing if they have been sitting around.  When un-powered they should sit partially open (say less than 1mm crack), it should push fully open easily with a screwdriver, and when you let go it should spring back to "nearly closed" position on its own with no help.  If it doesnt move free you can usually free them up by spraying CRC or similar through it and working the barrel backwards and forwards.
If it isn't seized and you can change idle speed then attach your tune and a log.

It's like extracting blood from a stone sometimes...
What version/year/model WRX? Does it have traction control and DSC?  And is it a plug-in ecu or wire-in?

I think the main problem is your firing order table, it should be set like this:

 
I would also change the trigger mode to the "Chev LS2/LS7 (90 offset)" mode, as the existing one wont reliably sync during cranking.  This wouldnt make it run incorrectly, but sometimes you would probably find it will just crank but not start.  
 
The following arent related to your problem, but a few suggested changes from our LS3 to give you a better starting point:
Set your accel fuel up like this:

 
Idle control:

 
 

Below is all we have available as GP IO in the mini CAN stream.  Im not sure if "DSC switch" on CAN DI5 is the traction switch or not.  
Cruise control is an odd PWM protocol that we dont know much about, our test car didnt have cruise. 
As far as I know fuel consumption is already transmitted as per the factory ecu.   

Our test car was a 2.0JDM GRB, dead stock including air box, MAF, exhaust, injectors and top mount IC.  
I never got around to removing the injectors to characterise properly so there could be some deadtime error baked into the tune which would consequently bake some error into the test you do for the fuel charge cooling coeff, so I cant say for sure that is representative.  Be aware injector spray pattern affects charge cooling a lot also.  having said that, the fuel control was quite stable in that car, the long-term fuel trims would average around +/-3% whenever I looked at them over different seasons and varied driving conditions.   I mostly ran the Mobil 98 in that car.  
I use the test described in the help file for the charge cooling coeff to approximate both the deadtimes and the charge cooling.  Ideally you need to do this on the dyno while holding steady and light load to get the PW up around 2ms where things are linear, I then set lambda target to 1.0, set the fuel table so it is flat around the operating area and lambda is sitting close to 1.0.  Then change the lambda target to 0.95, note how much measured lambda changes, then change target to 1.05 and again note measured lambda.  If it overshoots/undershoots the target significantly more on one side of 1.0 than the other, then the charge cooling needs adjustment.  Tweak that and try again until you get a similar amount of over/under correction when you step the target leaner or richer from 1.0.  Then do the same but tweak the deatime with each test until the measured lambda no longer over/undershoots a change in target.  This sounds complicated but its really only about 15mins work once you get the hang of it and have everything set up to display and adjust all on the one page.
The charge temp approximation table worked well in that car with the top mount, I dont think a front mount would change it significantly unless the manifold gets significantly cooler with the top mount removed.  We were using the stock JDM sti IAT location beside the throttle.
 
 

Trig 2 should be set to cam pulse 1X.  You dont need to "sync" the cam sensor, just adjust the trigger offset until a timing light shows the correct timing.  

We dont offer a plug-in ECU for this model and dont have any info on the CAN bus either so unfortunately Link dont have an easy solution.  
I vaguely remember one of our dealers in Switzerland has fitted a Link ECU to a Megane RS and was reverse-engineering some of the CAN bus I think but im not sure what model and if he had all road car functionality or if it was a race car.  I will see if @mapper can confirm.

I had an email from HTG in June 2021 and I said yes we would be happy to set up either a predefined stream or templates etc as well as offer any info or setup instructions for documentation, he said he would get his developer to come back to me with what they wanted but I haven't heard anything since.  
I have helped a few people set up the basic comms before so can probably help you.  

Correct the serial dash connection is no longer supported as this was not customisable and very few modern dashes or loggers offer serial input anymore.  You can use any of the CAN adapters listed in the realdash manual including the meatpi.
https://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

Yes, any DI's can be used for switches.  You cant currently have both stationary launch and latched launch set up the same time, but you can use a GP limit table to achieve the stationary launch.
The CAN lambda needs to be wired to a CAN port, there are 2 CAN ports on the Evo9 ecu.  

Yeah the pull-up is the problem.  Swap AN Temp 3 with AN temp 1 or 2 as you can turn the tull-up off on those two. 

To make it easy to get started on the forum each user gets a small storage allowance to allow them to attach log files, tune files and pictures to their post.  When you have used up that allowance and try to attach a file you will get an error message stating your file is too large to upload.  The way forward is to upload the file to an online drive service and use a share link to the file.  Google Drive and Onedrive are probably the most common free options in western countries so I have done a quick guide on those two here.  
There are many other options such as Dropbox, iCloud, WeTransfer, etc that usually follow a similar process.
How to share a file using Google Drive and Onedrive.mp4

Knock level global is the raw noise level from the knock sensor, this is multiplied by the cyl gain when the specific cyl window is active.  A knock level global of 1000 means the input is saturated, it cant measure a higher voltage.  If your cyl 1 knock level is showing a flat line at 530, this means the knock level global was pegged at 1000 everytime the cyl 1 window was captured.  
Im assuming you are using the stock sensor?, this saturation is common with the Toyota resonant frequency sensors, they usually arent useful with a modified engine.  Swap is for a flat response sensor.  If you already have a flat response, then just turn the main gain down.   

For the VVT, set your PWM frequency to 250Hz on all camshafts, then with the engine warmed up and at fast idle about 2000RPM, set the VVT cam angle test to "Calibrate", this will automatically populate the tooth count and tooth offset tables and it should turn itself back to off after a few seconds if successful.  Your VVT should then work.  Quite often with subarus you will find the cam control quite different on each side of the engine, if you dont get good control you will have to change the VVT "PID setup" setting to custom and optimise each bank independently.  Our WRX11 base map vvt settings should be a pretty good starting point for an EJ207.  

If the boost doesnt increase with the boost hose disconnected then there is a mechanical issue.  

Turn off wall wetting compensation for now to see if that improves it.  There is a recently discovered bug where the wall wetting compensation would sometimes hold the injectors open longer than they should be on the first crank after a power cycle.  This has been fixed in the next release but is still in testing.

Turn off wall wetting compensation for now to see if that improves it.  There is a recently discovered bug where the wall wetting compensation would sometimes hold the injectors open longer than they should be on the first crank after a power cycle.  This has been fixed in the next release but is still in testing.

Yours is not related to the OP which has an internal hardware issue.  If you want help solving yours it would be best to start your own thread and attach a log and tune exhibiting the problem occurring.  

To make it easy to get started on the forum each user gets a small storage allowance to allow them to attach log files, tune files and pictures to their post.  When you have used up that allowance and try to attach a file you will get an error message stating your file is too large to upload.  The way forward is to upload the file to an online drive service and use a share link to the file.  Google Drive and Onedrive are probably the most common free options in western countries so I have done a quick guide on those two here.  
There are many other options such as Dropbox, iCloud, WeTransfer, etc that usually follow a similar process.
How to share a file using Google Drive and Onedrive.mp4