Vaughan

Oh!  Good idea!  Thanks!  I'll try that!
 

That worked great!  Thank you!!!

one pin to switched power, one to an Aux, doesn't matter which way around the pins are, I used Aux1-4 but any of Aux1-10 and any spare inj or ign pins will suit from memory.
I ran Bank 1 Inlet (rear bank) to Trigger 2 and used DI1-3 for the other 3 banks, DI4 can be also be used but you do need to connect Trig2 to one of the cams.
I can't remember which way round I wired it but one of the crank pins to Trig 1 and the other to signal ground, it is quite easy to tell from a triggerscope whether or not you have these two the right way around, they do have to be a particular way.
I just used the Link Looms so Shielded Trig 1&2 but not the other cam sensors.
 
I've attached a copy of my basemap from a while ago, my engine has Cams and slightly bumped compression and there are a few other things setup in there like the ECU controlling the temperature gauge and speedo. That being said it should be fine for figuring out the basics and getting the engine started.
2GR 309whp.pclx
Have just realised that this is in the G4+ forum, your setup will be slightly different again if you are using a G4+ but the gist of it is the same

Vaughan, DI9 & 10 should be ok on a plug-in shouldnt it?

There is a lockout setting to account for fuel priming delay, the next software update has code so that it remembers what the ethanol value was when it turned off and uses that value while in lockout the next time you start it.

All Link products should include a USB cable in the box. Your first port of call should be the dealer you bought it from if this is missing - this may just be an oversight on their part.
As for Owners Manual - once you've downloaded and installed the free PC Link G4X software to your laptop, you have access to one of the best manuals I have ever seen from any software application in my 25 years in the IT industry, right there within the application, that dynamically changes the current page based upon what you've got selected on screen.
Link do provide a number of "start up" configuration files, which have the basics pre-configured for a selection of engines, but you haven't purchased an off-the-shelf tune for your engine. You have purchased a fully programable aftermarket ECU, which can be made to work with almost every single combination of engine, sensors and modifications. You will need to get it correctly configured and tuned - if you are not capable of doing this yourself, then you will need to take it to a professional tuner, and pay them for their time, expertise, and use of their very expensive tuning equipment (such as a rolling road and accurate air/fuelling ratio sensors).

Appreciate it so much, @Adamw!!
 
Thanks again @Vaughan!

To assign the Aux 1 to boost control in G4x - you will first need to enable boost control (open or closed loop) and then assign the output in that menu.  In the G4x you don't assign outputs at the pin itself.

For example: 

91 SW20 MR2 chassis
EFI System:
-Link G4+ Thunder
-1zz COP direct spark 
-5s 36-2 crank sensor and trigger
-Gen 2 3s distributor used for cam sync 
-BM 2-wire knock sensor
-GM 4bar MAP sensor
-GM Flex Fuel sensor (modeled fuel mode, dual fuel mapping from E10-E80)
Engine:
-2.0L forged Gen 2 3sgte block maintaining factory compression
-Gen 2 3sgte head with Engle valve springs and GSC S1 (268) cams, adjustable cam gears (E:7deg retard, I:0deg)
-Modified ATS straight runner intake manifold
-Custom intercooler system utilizing a CSF A2W core
-Custom exhaust manifold and downpipe with recirculated Tial MVR 48mm EWG, XonaRotor XR7164 turbo with 0.82 v-banded hotside
-3” Berk dual exhaust
-ID1700xds injectors supplied with a Walbro 450lph pump
-Custom air cooled oil cooler system with Setrab cooler and Mocal oil thermostat, relocated oil filter
-IAG universal AOS with three -10 crank case breathers 
Transmission:
-Stock E153 w/ factory LSD
-Clutch Masters 725 series twin disk w/ steel flywheel
-Drive Shaft Shop axles 
Car made 495whp/385wft-lbs on a Mustang Dyno on a 95degF day and 70% humidity and a heat soaked IC system (120F IC water temp) because the heat exchangers were being starved of airflow. Boost pressure was on 20psi tapering to 23psi at redline and fuel was E79. 
 
It had a lot more steam in it, but I stopped where I did because I didn’t want to exceed 350ftlbs-lbs around natural peak torque and 380ftlbs-lbs closer to redline because it is a 3sgte block prone to fatigue cracking on the cylinder walls. Plan is to run it like this until I build a 5s block with a partial block fill.
This car is more wired than a new BMW  and the Link ecu is the nervous center for it and handles everything I throw at it. All auxiliary systems that have to do with motor function are controlled by the ecu and I have more sensors on the car than are probably necessary. The IC system alone has 5 temps sensors, one water flow sensor and one level sensor in the reservoir just to give you an idea haha. But I love data and since the Link has access to all of it, I can change how each system functions just by a simple software change.

Update - Fixed Ethanol Display by updating the Powertune digital firmware.

Okay that helps a lot. I won't be trying to start for a while but I wanted to make sure I had this right before starting. 

I had found this thread, and there didn't seem to be a conclusion. Hence the months later bump...
I've been trying to set up alternator control on my NB2 miata with G4X fury. These are the results of a brief test, still a lot of fiddling to do, but the strategy seems to be on the right track. Definitely better than the bang-bang setup I had before. I'll update this later once I figure out better gains

The PWM frequency is 250Hz constant, not sure if that is appropriate. Given that the math blocks run at 1kHz, averaging the error across some integer multiple of 4ms seems to be a good idea (still need to play with how many averages works best).
I used a 'dt' function, instead of the simple 'current - previous' derivative calc proposed above
I used some different axis breakpoints in the GP PWM table, to normalize the gains in math block 4 - they wouldn't fit otherwise. I think I can also move the "+4" term in math block 4 into the GP PWM table, to claim some more character space back.

Hey Adam, just thought I’d update you. I rewired them and it’s all sorted. Thanks!

Nope but the coils might be unhappy because of how their feedback is hooked up, you could try having coil 4 unplugged and then trying to fire coil 1.
Also could just be an issue with the plug for coil 1, wrong pinout or bad crimp or something

I used  this to check colours https://www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-Miata-Wiring/90diag.pdf

I will put that setup in and let you know the result. Thanks

thanks Vaughan, i wont be able to do it until friday arvo  but i appreciate the help. ill send it through

Although not commonly done, those feedback (you call tach) pins should be ok commoned up like that.  Most people wouldnt connect them at all as Vaughan says but the FT60 project I was involved in that used similar coils had them all spliced together and they worked fine.  
Can you tell us what ecu pins those wire colors relate to.
 
But both those coils are wired to the same trigger, why do you say only coil 1 should be firing?  Both 1 and 4 should be sparking when you do a test on ign 1. 

Yes it is the Link CAN Lambda. When I get to the car tomorrow I’ll attach one. 

Thanks Vaughan.

a calibration value of 10,000 for each of the wheel speeds will let you have the can freq value in cm/s and the wheel speed values in kph

Thank you. 
I think this is gonna be a go. I'm pumped! 

Sorry missed that bit - an G4+ Xtreme.
the map you see without 10/11 showing was given to me and im using this as my base. Not sure what ecu this was on.
The one with 10/11 showing is my old 3sgte map
Oooo I see. The map thinks its on a Fury. This makes sense. I'll just edit the other map then.

Oh this is amazing. I honestly did not expect so much 2gr adjacent wiring within the help files. Thanks a ton Vaughn.

Perfect, thanks for clarfying this for me. TGIF!