Vaughan

Small suggestion: Alternator control to me would seem more at home in the chassis and body rather than aux outputs?  Maybe it's just me but that's the first place I looked for it.

Pin 1 +5v
Pin 2 signal out to Ecu An Volt
Pin 3 signal in
Pin 4 ground

Oh! That my wrong, thank you so much.

I can upload a tune tomorrow 

That's probably an @Adamw question as none of my personal cars rev that high and I haven't played with one that does.

Well, Ill stick to 2x injectors then and Go 3x when you have it sorted  

And another (possibly)  silly question... Is the Link 4x able to map to 10k RPM? and is there any idiosyncrasies on the trigger filters  I will need to be aware of? The cars current ECU maps stop at 8000 RPM and then Fudges the rest...  

I'm Hoping to use direct fire with NO wasted spark to attempt to limit electrode wear.

(Current ECU is powered by a miniature Dinosaur...... Well, It was cutting edge 27 years ago! )

I asked for anti lag logs with 6.21 and 6.22
It seems that with 6.22 it loses the throttle body movement when it activates the ALS.
In the logs if they indicate which E-Throttle table is used, sorry.  Only RPM Limit does not differentiate between 1 or 2

What exactly stopped working with the Anti Lag in 6.22? is it not activating? can you describe or show what issues you are having with it?
 
can you attach a copy of your tune so I can see exactly what you are doing with your rpm limits please.
Have fixed this, fix will be in the next release.

Thinking about this when I was writing up the task last night - cant you just log the status of whatever you have set for the table 2 activation?

I've made a few changes lately. 

Firstly I converted to an e-throttle ITB setup from a BMW S1000RR. 
This, by some luck had a port spacing almost exactly identical and right size for a 1NZ motor.
It also means I've got cruise control connected up, which works awesomely.

I'm now running some slightly shorter runners that have given some gains in the 6000-9000rpm region at expense of some midrange. Good for drags. 

I also went to a 13" wheel setup, so a 205/70/13 M&H dot rated bias ply tyre for the front. Then some skinny alloys with 155s on the back. 

Car weight is now around 790kg.



So I went to the drags again, and it ran great! 

I ran a 13.49 @ 99.5 mph. 

Had a 2.09 60ft so that could still probably improve a bit. But on the whole, was real happy with it. 
I was using a new shift light setup that I wasnt quite used to, so ended up buzzing the limiter a little more than ideal. 
I'm looking forward to getting out there again and experimenting some more with tyre pressures and launch rpm to find what's good. 
On the whole though, the car's been great.

Here's a video of the 13.4 run:
 

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.
Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing. 
So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.
 
Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.
Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.
 
 
 

FIXED! Got her working.

If anyone ends up googling how to do it here's your answer.
The instrument cluster wiring diagram above shows the solid state logic for the fuel economy gauge. While it was very basic it appears it required vehicle speed and rpm amongst others. So with the car up on jacks, running in 2nd gear, 1100 rpm and 25kp/h, i was able to start inputing the Duty Cycle as i originally wanted.
ECU output at 250hz

18.5% Duty Cycle= 4 on the gauge
20% = 10
22% = 15
23% = 16
24% = 20
25% = 23
26% = 24
27% = 26
Ill be honest and say i didn't test at other rev ranges or speeds. So there may be some more tinkering required in that regard but so far so good.

Thanks everyone for your help!
 

An Volt 1-4 will be used for things like oil pressure and TPS, usually these sensors require an An Volt, a +5V reference and a signal ground wire.
An Temp 1-2 will be used for temperature inputs like coolant and intake air temp as they are like an AN Volt input but have built in pullup resistors, two wire temperature sensors are wired with one wire connected to an An Temp input and the other wire connected to a signal ground wire from the ECU.
Auxiliary Output 1-6 will be used for things like your VVT Solenoid, Idle air valve, fuel pump and so on, things that the ECU is controlling. usually one wire of the solenoid is connected to a ignition switched power Supply and the other to an Auxiliary output. If your idle air valve is anything like the gen2 3s one then it needs two Auxiliary outputs and an ignition switched power supply to control, typically you would use Aux 1 and 2 for this.
DI 1-4 are usually used for switch inputs like brake switch or clutch switch or frequency inputs like Gearbox/wheel speed. On the Atom and Monsoon DI 4 can be used as a switched input or as a Knock input. This is done to give the user some extra configurability while keeping the same 34 pin plug.
For your O2 sensor have you acquired a wideband sensor and controller or are you planning on using the factory Narrowband sensor?
@Adamw might have a generic 4 cyl engine wiring diagram which should show how these things are connected in more detail
 

yes you can have 12V on one side of the bulb and the aux on the other side of the bulb as long as the bulb uses less than 2A. Typical dash bulbs like the CE Light, oil light, cruise lights etc are fine.

If it is reading 4-7% after calibration while the engine is not running it is most likely because the throttle is not being controlled at that point (when unpowered the throttle plate typically sits a small distance from fully closed). If it is showing 4-7% while being controlled (should be able to hear a high pitched whine from it) you will need to look at your ethrottle target and PID tuning.

First test seemed to work correctly. I'll keep an eye on it for subsequent drives.

okay. Sounds simple enough, I was almost on it. So I’ll need to remove the fan and shroud to view that timing mark, then I’ll get back to you guys with my findings. Likely tomorrow evening as I don’t have my special wrench with me. Thank you for the short and simple explanation.
I familiarized myself with the base timing config. I was messing around with the timing offset and tried to advance and retard the original offset by 10 degrees.
So starting at -328, I tried cranking at -318 and would not want to start, similar situation as when the motor is hesitant to start in the mornings but worse – sputters wheezes and dies, but no backfire. After trying -338 I found it would start okay but sluggish while under load.
Yeah I know I skipped verifying my timing, I figured -+ 10 degrees couldn’t hurt - plus I logged every attempt to look back at. Glad I know how to do trigger scopes as well, even though I don’t necessarily know what I’m looking at… lol
the more I mess with this engine, the more and more I think about how worn and beat it is and that it may not be the tune. There’s the entire timing system to blame because I’ve never serviced it, totally putting it off with my other motor in the scope. And of course 4 out of 6 of my cylinders are out of spec for compression readings sooo there’s that.

So once you have been driving for a while and the two LTT tables have a bunch of values in them indicating that the tune could be improved then you might want to apply those values from the LTT tables to the tune and clear the LTT tables so you can see if it continues to need adjustment.
When you go to apply the LTT values to the fuel table you might find that there are differences between the two LTT values meaning that there is a slight difference in fueling requirements for each bank at different engine speed/load points. Given that the fuel table applies to the whole engine not individual banks if you want to apply those differences to the tune you will have to use the Individual cyl fuel correction.
The way I did this on my own car was I would look at the value of each pair of cells in LTT table 1 and 2 and if they were the same I would make that change (percentage change) in the fuel table but if they were different I would apply the LTT 1 value to the fuel table and I would apply the difference between the LTT 1 and 2 value in the individual cyl correction table. To do this I have the Indiv Cylinder Fuel mode set to Table with Cyl 2, 4 and 6 all set to the same table and make those changes in that table, cyl 1, 3 and 5 would either be set to a 2nd table that was all 0 or set to no table at all so that bank 1 would operate purely on the fuel table where bank 2 would operate on the combination of the fuel table and the ind cylinder correction table.

more how closely the fuel table, warmup enrichment, charge temp etc are tuned to follow the afr/lambda target table.

I've added some code to force the fans and ac clutch off when ignition switch is turned off and that will be in the next release. In the meantime could you please try setting your Auxiliary Outputs -> ECU Hold Power -> Keep Alive time to say 5s (with your RPM Zero Timeout set to 0 still).
Thanks

Thnks a lot man for your help.

Any DI input, which turbo sensor is it, does it have it's own internal down sampling and how many blades does the compressor of your turbo have? G4X DI inputs are stated as being capable of reading up to 10kHz on the DI pins.

Should work perfectly, they have down sampling such the output is 1/8th of the input so with a 9 blade compressor you should be good to at least 10,000Hz / (9/8) = ~8900Hz = ~530,000RPM

Thank you for the reply, it may be worth my while installing a hall sensor on the camshaft so, to maximise my available inputs. 
 

I would also suspect due to the 2 trigger wheels on the crank with thge unique groups of teeth that the OEM ecu (assuming wasted spark ignition) could probably sync and spark after a little more than 120deg crank rotation.  With the Link ECU using only the 12T wheel it will need to see the cam tooth before it has enough information to sync and spark - this could take as much as 720deg crank rotation.  However, this is common with many basic trigger systems and wouldnt usually take more than about 1 second. 
As well as the info the Vaughan requested, a triggerscope taken while cranking will help confirm that the arming thresholds are set appropriately.   

I have it setup on my MR2 with both front abs sensors and the gearbox output as my wheel speeds, on track it works amazingly well keeping the rear end reigned in while still staying playful and allowing for some slip. It works well on the road too with the exception of under ~25kph  because I haven't used a comparator on the signal from my ABS and so the speed input doesn't work below 25kph. The motor in the car is a 309whp naturally aspirated 3.5l V6 so has plenty of torque but will also be a bit simpler to control than a turbo motor.