Adamw

This is all you need, no connection to the ecu at all.  

 
 

Yes I understand how a distributor works, but this engine is direct spark so there is only one offset that will allow it to run. 
He said his sync tooth is pointing at the sensor when the engine is at TDC firing stroke so his offset should be somewhere close to zero, but his map has it set to 360, hence my comment that the timing may look correct but it wont run.  

The Atom only has 3 analog inputs, you need 2 for TPS and MAP, leaving only one spare.  So you have to choose between the Innovate or the Oil press sensor.  Personally since the innovate controllers are POS, I would use the analog input for oil press and get a CAN bus lambda controller.  
 
Avoid the oil school VDO style single or two-wire ones.  Avoid the cheap Chinese/generic/no-brand ones as well as anything that looks identical but someone has just put their label on it.  I know of at least one car locally that caught fire from one of these unbranded sensors failing.  The Bosch combined press/temp ones are good (you would only use the press part), Honeywell MIP or MLH or PX3 are good, Variohm are good, the AEM stainless ones seem reasonable.   
 
First check your Atom is at least hardware revision V3.0 as the early ones didnt have knock control hardware.  Assuming yours does then any Bosch flat response doughnut type sensor will work.
 
The Atom only does open loop boost control, but still very worthwhile.  
 
Very worthwhile, launch control, gear calculation, boost by gear, boost by speed etc, its also nice to use as an idle control lockout if it has an idle valve.  
 
You will need a relay to handle the fuel pump current, but the ecu can control the relay.  If you just want on/off control the a normal mechanical relay is fine, if you want to do PWM/speed control then you will need a solid state relay. 
 
Yes, there is GP limiter example for oil pressure in the help file.  Knock is very effective but you have to have a reasonable level of experience and preferably audio knock detection equipment to set it up and tune it.  
 
You only need two wires from the ECU to an OBD2 socket, you are probably best to do your own.  Pretty much anything you buy will need terminals crimped on at least one end.  You could possibly just buy a cheap OBD2 extension lead and cut one end off.  Having said that OBD2 doesnt make for a great display in my experience, especially RPM and shiftlight functionality is way too slow.  
 

The native launch function doesnt allow both to be set up at the same time, but for the standing launch you can use a GP limit or the dual RPM limit table to achieve the same functionality.  

I was just typing the same thing.  The throttle is not even working in either of your logs, you dont have any APS sensors assigned.  The throttle is disabled and the ecu is applying a limiter for safety.   
 

You would want a CANJST to bring CAN outside of the ECU case.  Then you will probably want a CANEXT (extension cable) to reach to the Lambda controller.  If you want 2 devices then you would split the bus using a CANTEE somewhere and you would possibly need a further CANEXT depending on locations etc.  

The Atom only has 3 analog inputs, you need 2 for TPS and MAP, leaving only one spare.  So you have to choose between the Innovate or the Oil press sensor.  Personally since the innovate controllers are POS, I would use the analog input for oil press and get a CAN bus lambda controller.  
 
Avoid the oil school VDO style single or two-wire ones.  Avoid the cheap Chinese/generic/no-brand ones as well as anything that looks identical but someone has just put their label on it.  I know of at least one car locally that caught fire from one of these unbranded sensors failing.  The Bosch combined press/temp ones are good (you would only use the press part), Honeywell MIP or MLH or PX3 are good, Variohm are good, the AEM stainless ones seem reasonable.   
 
First check your Atom is at least hardware revision V3.0 as the early ones didnt have knock control hardware.  Assuming yours does then any Bosch flat response doughnut type sensor will work.
 
The Atom only does open loop boost control, but still very worthwhile.  
 
Very worthwhile, launch control, gear calculation, boost by gear, boost by speed etc, its also nice to use as an idle control lockout if it has an idle valve.  
 
You will need a relay to handle the fuel pump current, but the ecu can control the relay.  If you just want on/off control the a normal mechanical relay is fine, if you want to do PWM/speed control then you will need a solid state relay. 
 
Yes, there is GP limiter example for oil pressure in the help file.  Knock is very effective but you have to have a reasonable level of experience and preferably audio knock detection equipment to set it up and tune it.  
 
You only need two wires from the ECU to an OBD2 socket, you are probably best to do your own.  Pretty much anything you buy will need terminals crimped on at least one end.  You could possibly just buy a cheap OBD2 extension lead and cut one end off.  Having said that OBD2 doesnt make for a great display in my experience, especially RPM and shiftlight functionality is way too slow.  
 

It doesnt look like you have done the cam angle calibration.  Run the engine at fast idle and set the cam angle test to calibration, it will populate the tooth offset table then turn itself back to off if successful.  Cam position should be working then.  I would also suggest you set the RPM lock out and ECT lockout to something more appropriate.  Usually around 1200RPM where there is stable oil press and around 60°C where oil viscosity is starting to become thin enough to work.  

That's what I originally said, "You will have to run a new wire from the ecu to the pump controller".  
Edit:  I just had a further thought - The IC Spray relay is controlled by Inj 7, this cant do GP PWM, only Aux 1-8 can.  Since you have changed to DBW you should have aux 5-8 free as the idle stepper is no longer required, one of these will do your pump PWM.  
 
Yes, as well as the 5V and ground.
 
 

It is a JST XA series connector XAP-05V-1, last time I looked they were pretty scarce with a long lead time like a lot of the electronics industry but I haven't looked recently.  Try the usual suppliers, RS, Element 14, Mouser.

I have the Haltech CAN protocol document.  Attach your ecu map and I will set it up.

Yeah sorry I still havent had time to set this up and test properly yet.  Its still on my todo list so not forgotten.  For closed loop I think if you make the AC offset 100rpm instead of 50 this should ensure that the deadband never overrides it and will probably make it more repeatable.  And as KO suggested I think the AC clutch delay actually needs to be shorter so CL doesnt pull it back out before the clutch kicks in, it looks like it wants something more like 0.2/0.3s.  

I think you have a trigger issue.  In the no start log there are lots of areas where RPM drops to zero yet you can see from battery voltage that it is still cranking.  In those areas the trigger 2 signal disappears.  
What does it have for triggers?  Stock 4 tooth crank and 2 tooth dizzy or something else?  Is it COP, wasted spark or distributor ign?   

Set one of your CAN channels to Keypad 1 with ID 405 and also set Tx to 10Hz or so.  The "Keypad 1" mode receives the button presses from the keypad, the Tx part sends out the commands for the LED's.  

That is the whole idea of CAN, all devices on the same bus can use any of the data on the bus.  All devices can read the same stream/packet/ID.

Launch control uses driven wheel speed according to the help menu and your tune has driven wheel speed off.  So you should probably assign your wheels speed input to driven wheel speed and try again.

Set triggermode to Mazda MX5 NB 36-2 should be all you need to do.  The trigger offset should be in the ballpark if your 36-2 wheel was made by flying Miata, if it is from some other company then likely not.   Regardless it needs to be checked with a timing light.
For the VVT, set it to MX5 VVYi mode assign the input to trig 2 and the correct aux for the output.  Warm the engine up, hold it at about 2000rom and set the cam angle test to calibrate, it should turn itself off after a few seconds if successful.  
 

Yes, the settings you suggest above take care of the general change in air density due to altitude. 
However there is another factor to consider with turbocharged engines - if you want to maintain the same MAP (same power) as altitude increases, then the turbo charger has to work harder due to the increasing pressure ratio (higher boost/MGP is required to maintain the same MAP), this means higher EMAP which of course reduces the engines VE. So you may need a 4D table referencing either EMAP or Altitude/BAP to correct for the restriction that the turbocharger adds at higher altitude.  

Yes, the settings you suggest above take care of the general change in air density due to altitude. 
However there is another factor to consider with turbocharged engines - if you want to maintain the same MAP (same power) as altitude increases, then the turbo charger has to work harder due to the increasing pressure ratio (higher boost/MGP is required to maintain the same MAP), this means higher EMAP which of course reduces the engines VE. So you may need a 4D table referencing either EMAP or Altitude/BAP to correct for the restriction that the turbocharger adds at higher altitude.  

What dash do you have?  I just done some testing a week or so back and everything was working correctly.
It is easier to use the .xc1 file than a dbc so I will attach that.  
LINK_Link MXS Custom_@20230318_005233_002523.xc1

BAP or MAP is generally fine as the equation source for road car ITB engines, both will give you baro compensation.  If you have an idle valve then MAP is a must.  On NA race engines with high valve overlap the MAP is generally too noisy and results in noisy inj PW so BAP is usually more suitable in those cases.  The other slight variation I sometimes do for well designed race engines is set the load equation source to MAP but connect the MAP sensor to the airbox so you get baro comp but also correction for aero or restriction effects on the airbox.

Yes, wire all on the same bus, yes G4+ can take keypad commands from the PDM for most common functions.  

If open loop lambda table is on then you are meant to tune to the target that is in the table, you if you change the target later the AFR will change automatically without retuning.  If you change the target now it will go very rich.
But it would be best to change the target then retune so the measured lambda does match the target.

You can use a GP Output/Virtual aux to add conditions.  The Clutch delay does apply to the TPS/IDC lockout.  
An example below, assuming my AC clutch is connected to aux 3, in the AC settings change the output to a virtual aux.  Set up a GP output to control aux 3 instead.  Add the condition Virtual aux = active and RPM <5000.  So the AC clutch would work as normal when driving sedately, but would be disabled with no delay when RPM went over 5000.  It would kick back in as soon as RPM came back down below 5000.
 

I had previously discussed this with the poster before I saw it on the forum here.  There appear to be 2 issues going on here to me, one is the e-throttle is getting a lot of integral wind up for some reason which makes it slow to respond to step changes in target.  Secondly, I dont think the AC offset is always being applied as it should.  I think this is because the deadband is set larger than the AC idle up so the offset gets ignored until the status goes active.  I need to spend some more time playing around with it on the bench and thinking through all the logic, it may need a change in firmware.