essb00

Problem solved! Adjusting the MAP lockout means i could turn on and adjust idle ignition control and sits at a happy 1050rpm lights on and off with no changes! Thankyou everyone.

If you give us a log showing the problem occurring and a copy of the tune then we might be able to help, otherwise the best I can do is consult the magic 8 ball at work tomorrow. 

Absolutely mega! Thank you a million times, it runs now. 

Yeah, it still shows on the tune file and log you just shared.
Perhaps change the MAP delta to 30kpa/100ms
CLL Startup Timer to 30s (so there's sufficient time for the o2 sensors to reach temp from cold start)
CLL Gain Control Table (try values 3, 8, 15, 30, 50, 80)

It should be easier to interchange the terminal connectors on the pickup sensor side.

Properly wired Trig 1 & 2 should look like this below (compare the difference of Trig1 after the missing tooth going positive, and Trig2 where it should go positive before inverting to negative.

It should be easier to interchange the terminal connectors on the pickup sensor side.

Properly wired Trig 1 & 2 should look like this below (compare the difference of Trig1 after the missing tooth going positive, and Trig2 where it should go positive before inverting to negative.

It should be easier to interchange the terminal connectors on the pickup sensor side.

Properly wired Trig 1 & 2 should look like this below (compare the difference of Trig1 after the missing tooth going positive, and Trig2 where it should go positive before inverting to negative.

I think this is using raw CAN, not OBD2 PID's so PID is really the wrong term that is confusing the question.  Message ID or CAN ID would be more appropriate.  Maybe their app was originally only designed for OBD2 commands.  
What ecu CAN port is the RC device wired to?

With innovate controllers the sensor usually hasnt failed, they just refuse to work when the frequency response gets slower.  If you get error 2 or error 8 the sensor is likely still perfectly fine and will work with any other wideband controller, if you haven't thrown away already, save them as spares for when you have a decent controller.   
Innovate determine oxygen content by driving the sensor completely differently than they were ever designed to be, rather than measuring the actual pump current required to keep the nerst cell near stoich they instead drive the pump at full current all the time, continuously bouncing current backward and forwards, then use the resulting duty cycle to derive how rich or lean it was.  This can give very fast response and works fine when the sensor is new, clean, and its temperature is relatively stable, but age, temperature and deposits effect the timing a lot so the controller then justs reports the sensor has failed if it takes too long to see the response it expects. 
    

It lives! (runs terribly of course, but it starts!)

I wired in a 2 channel igniter into my adapter loom and hey presto we have ignition. So embarrassing that I missed that... Thanks for the help team! 

I believe the Innovate Lambda controller instructions should read as follows:

Step 1: Remove from vehicle
Step 2: Throw in trash
Step 3: Install any other lambda controller
Kidding/not kidding.  If you don't have a viable way to replace the lambda controller then it is what it is, but innovate controllers are known to have issues with failing sensors extremely quickly.  I would keep spare sensors on hand.

What currently is selected on  "Aux 2 Active State"? If 'Low', set it to 'High'. If 'High', set it to 'Low'.

Attach your tune file and logs.

@Adamw The window start then varies widely as it is based on the ignition event. Wouldn't it be more useful if the knock window start could be selected in absolute degrees (e.g. -10°) instead?

Try to see here if they've got the connectors/plugs you need.
https://www.nzefi.com/products/wiring-and-connectors/connectors/toyota-vehicle-specific-connectors/

It's not a Idle Valve, it's to minimize the pressure differential between the vane end seals of the Supercharger and the outside air.

 

you can leave it on if you use a math channel
 

Nearly always with road car engines with the injectors spraying directly at the back of the valves, the ideal injection angle for efficiency is around 360-400BTDC at idle and light loads, this same angle usually gives the best transient behaviour as well.  
In many cases with mild engines the difference between ideal injection timing and "timing miles out" is small, you may only see a small correlation in lambda Vs PW or maybe hear a slightly sweeter idle without any obvious measured changes.  On a well-balanced low inertia chassis dyno with a good control system you can usually just detect the small change in torque but it is not much above the general noise level.  Above about 30% DC the timing becomes irrelevant in this type of application.
As the engine gets more serious however - increased valve overlap, high compression, itb's, outboard injectors etc, then the differences become far more apparent and worth chasing  - often even essential in terms of airbox fire risk from stand off etc.  

@k4nnon Yes, you should be able to see the best injection timing with the highest lambda - but that might only be on light to medium loads as with above 50% injector duty cycle, or high rpms where the intake velocity is high, injection timing does not matter much.

@k4nnonYou'll get max wall wetting with open valve injection, but not much atomization/fuel evaporation which isn't so good with combustion. That's why it is better to have the end of injection before intake valve opening.

@Wanderer Since ECU has built-in BAP, it would be better to use your external BAP sensor as MAP sensor connected to a common vacuum block for fuel compensation.
 

That's apple discrimination! I am iRate at being iNconvenienced.

Wall wetting compensation only applies to acceleration where the fuel to be injected is higher than previous injection cycle.
There's no 'normal' value as it fairly depends on the engine intake manifold/valve/combustion chamber design.
You'd have to experiment on that, but according to articles I have read, X*Tau enrichment ([fuel pooling/puddling & wall wetting total] * Time) would be around 32% more fuel.

Check the revision number of your AtomX... if it is Version 3 or newer, it should have the internal knock control module connected to pin 6 - so you can wire the Bosch donut knock sensor directly.

There needs to be cause and effect.  If you're the wiring/install guy and he's saying he wants you to get it up and running then you're in charge of what that requires.  If it requires changes be made or it won't work right, and the customer doesn't want to do those things to make it work right, that's a stop all work and not have your name attached to it type of thing in my book.   Yes someone with some experience tuning needs to get involved - it can be locally or remote - but the customer will likely need to be prepared to pay for this to happen.  The owner can sign up for HP Academy or similar online training if he is so inclined, but none of the options to get the car dialed in are going to be free. 

When the Throttle is suddenly lifted, lambda values go much to rich, do to the small delay in MAP reading and the fuel film puddle in the ports are sucked into the cylinder. 
I like to see a deceleration enrichment which removes fuel in these situations. 
Wondering if other tuners are missing this too?