Adamw

Are you sure that is the correct map? That set back to S54 trigger mode and vvt mode.

It looks like you havent reset the offsets. Follow the procedure below. Use a test pulse count of 7 on the exhaust cam test and a count of 6 on the intake cam test. Enter the obtained cam angle value for the exhaust cam into the "Trigger 2 VVT" menu and for the intake cam you enter it into the DI1 settings.

The main cause of the surge is the idle antistall gain is too high, drop this to 2.0. This kicks in if your RPM drops 150RPM below target, so you are increasing the proportional effect by 800% when this happens with your current settings. Something is a bit fishy with your throttle pedal, at the beginning of the log it is reading 0.6% at rest, at the end of the log it is sitting at 1.1% at rest, it should read 0% whenever it is at rest. It may be something mechanical such as it is not positioned well so your foot rests on it too heavily or it could be some electrical issue - worn sensor or ground offset etc. This is preventing idle control from even activating. So those two above are the most important things to fix first in my view. I agree with most of the other suggestions given also but want to add a couple of further related comments: Def Increase RPM lockout in both idle speed control and idle ign and KO suggests. I agree that the idle base position appears to be about 0.5% too low - but with G4+ to get a nice transition from idle to driving, you are meant to have the bulk of your idle position coming from the main e-throttle target table and only small values in the idle base position table (mostly just whatever extra is needed for warm up) - so I would change it up a bit - put 2.0% right across the whole top row of the e-throttle target table, then subtract 0.5% from all the current values in your idle base position table. I wouldnt adjust the E-throttle integral at this stage, you already have quite a high target error accumulator count in some areas so I wouldnt want to make it less responsive. Whilst I agree the Idle ign could be more aggressive if needed, I think I would leave it as is for now, it isn't even activating at present due to your APS issue so just fixing that will make a big difference. Not related to your idle issue but a few other things I spotted: you are getting a lot of integral wind-up on your LH exhaust cam. A couple of things causing this - It is reading about -1deg with the cam fully home sitting on the mechanical stop so the ecu is pulling out more and more DC trying to force it to zero. Adjust the offset on DI1 so that the LH exhaust position reads 0 at idle. Secondly, increase the VVT RPM lockout to about 1200 so its not active at idle when there is little oil pressure. CLL is pulling 15% fuel out at idle and it is still about 5% richer than target when warm so something in the tune isn't right. To me the values in the idle area of the charge temp table look too small for a V engine where the intake manifold probably runs quite a bit warmer than a typical inline engine. This could potentially contribute to stalling or an undershoot when entering idle conditions excessively rich. Battery voltage is not very good in the log, about 12.7-13.0V at idle which isn't too unusual, but still only 13.1V max at 4000rpm.

8 long, 3 short would be fault code 83, but there is no such code as far as I know. Can you connect a laptop to confirm?

Is it GDI still? Does it have electronic throttle? Does it have an egt sensor connected to the ecu? What controls does the driver have - is there only an on/off switch or is there a cal knob as well? Note ALS isn't usually active during idle, generally only over-run, at idle you would usually have it set up to switch to cyclic idle to get all the temperatures back under control. How aggressive you can go with the ALS strategy to achieve "instant boost" usually comes down to how comfortable the driver is with the push effect.

There is no signal from the crank sensor at all, it is just sitting at 0.5V the whole time in the scope, the camshaft shows the correct signal.

Try this:

A quick google suggests there are potentially 2 different types of tachos used in these - neither will work connected directly to the ecu but both will require a different technique to make them work. The 2 different types are often referred to as voltage sense and current sense. The voltage sense type originally would have connected to the negative post on the coil, it uses the ~100V kick out of the coil primary every time there is a spark to signal it. The current sense type is connected to the positive post on the coil and is actually the power supply to the coil - all power supplied to the coil goes through the tacho, so the tacho has a small transformer inside that picks up the current pulses. If you know what side of the coil the tacho was originally connected to that will help, or if you can find a wiring diagram that you are confident matches your car then we can base the advice off that. Another bit of info that would be useful is what you are using for an ignition system now - distributor or cop or wasted spark, coil((s), ignitors etc.

What do you mean by "starts and cuts"? Are you talking about the AEM wideband still or some other issue? Has it been tuned and running correctly before?

Can you attach a copy of the tune, the scope file and a short log of it cranking.

I havent seen any issues on the couple of win11 PC's I have. Do you have any dual tables set up Fuel/Ign/Boost/Throttle etc? Can you attach a copy of your tune?

Launch control is active. Your launch control activation conditions are set up for Speed < 30kmh AND DI4 = ON, both are true where to launch limiter is working. I see DI4 is switching on and off a lot in the log so possibly you have a bad switch?

I would start by setting the trigger mode to S52 and set the VVT mode to BMW Dual Vanos S52, redo the offsets.

Sorry, I must have been half asleep. Change the ID for user stream 3 to 1100.

According to their website it is just a standard potentiometer, it will output 0V at one end and supply voltage at the other end. Since the ecu analog inputs can only measure 5V you should use a 5V supply.

It will depend a bit on how complex the function that you want to interfere with is, but for your tacho example you could assign the tacho function output to a CAN aux instead of a real aux, then manipulate that CAN aux frequency in a math function or with a GP PWM 3D table etc before outputting to the tacho.

A copy of your tune and a short PC log of the problem occurring is the place to start. Also a bit of basic info about the engine - injector size etc.

I think just unplugging the CANF will be the only test you need to do to confirm if it is something in that, there may be a stray copper strand or small solder bridge inside etc.

Email tech support as suggested earlier, they will give instructions on where it needs to go, most likely our Spain or UK office.

In G4+ plug-ins, aux 4,9&10 micro pins are all required to generate the e-throttle control signals. When e-throttle is enabled aux 4 and 9 in the software control aux 9 and 10 output pins. When e-throttle is turned off, aux 4 in the software controls aux 4 output pin (if there is one), and aux 9 in the software controls the aux 10 output pin. Confusing and odd I know.

That diode is only the flywheel diode for the idle valve, it is hugely overrated and when the engine is off it doesnt even have any current flowing through it - let alone enough current to make it explode like that. The most likely scenario that could cause that would be reverse polarity = i.e the battery has been connected backwards at some stage or jumper leads backwards etc. I think also the fact you still have a short when you plug the ecu in now would suggest that big mosfet behind the diode is fried too.

The colours for soft and hard warnings are already changeable in the themes settings. If more users request an "ideal warning" I think it can go on the list for consideration, I have no idea how much work is involved in that. I do personally use the hard warnings for ECT and IAT on the dyno so I dont need to pay attention to those when concentrating on tuning, but im not sure I would ever use an ideal range one, I guess only if you are using PC Link as a dashboard? You could do something like this with the existing functionality:

A quick video to show what I think is likely going on: 2023-05-04_20-01-14.mp4

Ok, try these. The .xc1 is the CAN template, you dont actually need this but I've included it in case you want to add anything in future. Rally-V22-EngineRepair New CAN.pclx LINK_SC845 Custom_@20230504_061150_001110.xc1 SC485.zconfig

It is not only the TP sub. The ECU always uses TP main as the control variable so that will always stays close to target which may make it look like it is only a TP sub-issue. You can see in my April 26 post above the engine is idling at a steady RPM and ign timing is stable (indicating the load and/or throttle is not moving much), yet the TP main drifts up then back down, while the TP sub drifts down then back up - so most likely neither is correct. The signal output is opposite from the main Vs sub, and the output of TPS sensors is "ratiometric" (proportional to supply voltage), so a change in supply voltage will make one read higher and one read lower. The voltage at the sensor should be the first thing to confirm. If you find that not always within about 5.00+/-0.01V then work your way backwards from there, most commonly a bad crimp, bad splice, loose terminal or terminal not latched into the housing properly. The 2% change in main Vs sub that is in the April 26 pic would only require about a 0.04V change in supply voltage.