Adamw

If the coils can spark at power up then they must have 12V coming from somewhere, that would suggest a wiring issue. I would investigate that first as it may mean they also dont have 12v when cranking. The 470ohm 5v pull-up should drive the K24 coils no worries. Your trigger scope looks more like a K20 pattern rather than K24 also so it would be worth trying that - just in case it is causing it to spark on exhaust stroke. From memory they usually still start with either mode, you just get trigger errors when the VVT cam moves.

Yep that damage is classic battery or jumper leads connected backwards. That ecu would most likely be repairable for relatively low cost.

I see a few things wrong there. Can you confirm how you want it to work - I assume maybe something like this?: Engine running, ECT <50 = 10s on, 30s off. ECT between 50 & 80 = 5s on, 5s off. ECT > 80 = ON all the time. Timers will always start at 0 at power up so GP output 1 will always be true at power up. Timers are always 0 at power up so GP output 3 would always be true at power up. I would invert this logic. I think your GP 3 conditions is possibly meant to be looking at timer 2, not timer 1 and temp should be >50 rather than >80? I will give an example once you explain how you want it to work.

Ignition drives use current rather than voltage. Our ecu ignition drives are designed to drive a max of about 50mA. The P65T data sheet specs a minimum drive of 10mA, so yes they work fine.

Can you attach a copy of your tune and the actual log file, its pretty hard to tell anything from a picture but it doesnt look too far out of the ordinary to me. Without the log and just eyeballing the pics it looks like the logs show something like this: RPM 3000 4000 5000 6000 3rd gear 12.3:1 11.1:1 11.25:1 11.25:1 4th Gear 12.3:1 11.4:1 11.0:1 11.25:1 So you have a max of about 3% difference in AFR between the 2 runs? What wideband controller do you have? - it looks like you are only getting about 7 updates a second, that's not going to do you any favours.

The labels on the board are correct, the wire colours on the expansion looms have never been relevant and have changed a few times over time.

Most toyotas from around this era didnt really use separate sensor and power grounds logically, most of the high current noisy stuff was sort of passed through its own dedicated wires, but there were often odd practices such as the O2 sensor and knock sensor grounding through the chassis/block or high power ground connections. Effectively all grounds are common in both the factory ecu's and our plug-in, but "sensor grounds" are routed differently internally to minimise high power noise effects on analog signals. Using Link pin numbering, we have Pin 1 and 14 routed as the high power grounds, 23, 26 & 46 as sensor grounds. For a digital speed sensor the ground is not important as all your signal needs to do is cross the ~1.8V threshold, we are not trying to measure anything accurately.

Wire as per the help file with aux 1 active state set to high and it will work correctly. In reality it doesn't matter anymore which way you wire the valve, if it works in the wrong direction just flip the active state setting. Active state does not change the drive type from lowside to highside, it only changes whether the aux 1 output is high or low when active. Aux 2 is always doing the opposite of aux 1. So, with active state set to high and an idle valve command of 100% you will have 100% high on Aux 1 and 100% low on aux 2, 100% of the current will be flowing through the open winding so the valve will be 100% open. If you command a valve position of 25% then Aux 1 will be high for 25% of the cycle time (low for 75% of the cycle time), aux 2 will be low for 25% of the cycle time (high for 75% of the cycle), you have 25 % of the current flowing through the open winding, 75% of the current flowing through the close winding, the valve will be 25% open. I agree the pin labels for the runtimes confuse the issue, I assume this was probably originally done based on low-side drive outputs active state defaulting to low.

Is it still a stock 360 opto CAS or some other trigger system?

Yep there is definitely still a significant variation between sub and main in that log. I would say most likely it is some variation on the 5V supply or sensor ground as this is common to both sensors. Since the sensor outputs work in opposite directions, if the supply voltage drops a little, one TPS reads higher and the other will read lower. The 5V output in the log shows spot on 5.00 the whole time. If it were me, probably the next thing I would do is backprobe the 5V and gnd at the throttle body with a multimeter to confirm it is measuring a constant 5.00 there. Preferably with some long leads so you can drive around a bit with the voltmeter connected. The stall is because the throttle position is reading wrong, the throttle blade will sometimes be more closed than what it should be. For example in your 2nd log at time 4:30 the TP is at 2.8%, over the next few minutes of constant idle the TP drifts all the way to 4.4% to keep the RPM the same, then over the next few minutes it comes back down to 2.9%. TPS sub does the exact opposite.

It should be fixed now I think.

Yes that would be fine.

For an analog output type wideband controller, yes you could either use an expansion harness or one of the unused analog inputs that are already there. Most likely you are not using the airflow meter input, the rear O2 sensor input and possibly the TGV sensor inputs. Or preferably use a CAN bus wideband controller.

Connect CAN H from the ECU to CAN H on the adapter, connect CAN L on the ECU to CAN L on the adapter.

73 is likely just a symptom of the 76. Code 76 means the TP main and TP sub signals dont match, the ecu doesnt know which one is correct so it disables the throttle by switching off the e-throttle relay - this will cause the code 73.

There is no wideband controller built in to the ecu so the front factory O2 sensor wont work. The rear narrowband is connected to AN Volt 7, this can be used for narrowband closed loop control but is not useful for tuning.

Do you have an old red G4 extreme?

The forum is broken today and not allowing files to be attached, so I suggest for a fast response send an email to [email protected] with a copy of your tune and a short log of it cranking.

It is being worked on but was not something we could fix in-house. There are specialists working on it now but I have no idea how long it may take to correct.

Both are the same arent they? Just grey is missing from the Fury quick start guide as that wire doesn't connect to the Fury, it goes to the Ign switch. The sensors dont have a green wire, pin 5 is the calibration resistor inside the connector. You dont specifically need to use green as a color, but you do need to connect Fury MES to LSU5. The colors are just Bosch's convention.

I have sent you an email since the forum is broken.

Ok, unfortunately, we seem to have an issue with the forum host blocking file uploads and a few other odd issues occurring on the forum today. I dont think it is going to be fixed today, so in the interest of getting you sorted asap, can you send an email to tech@linkecu with a copy of your map and possibly a short PC log.

You need some way to get extra air in, typically a throttle kicker solenoid or E-throttle. The idle valve alone wont flow enough. You will also need a pedal box or vacuum pump for the brake booster as you will have no engine vacuum when antilag is active.

I noticed this started happening last night, I cant do a lot about it personally but I have notified those that need to know.