Adamw

There are at least 6 common DME's for the E36 - M1.7, M3.1, M3.3.1, M5.2, MS41.1 or MS50.1, all have different pinouts. I dont have a lot of documentation for the E34. So you need to be a bit more specific than just "E36 & E34 both use 413 (413 is a M3.3.1)". If you are talking about both with the M50TU engine then yes I would expect them both to use the same M3.3.1.

If you just power down the ecu and run the firmware update again it would usually recover from that. And when you get to the step where it tells you to power cycle the ignition, this time completely unplug the ecu to make sure it is fully powered down before reconnecting and clicking ok to continue.

Hard to say, the driver is pretty robust and has a lot of protection built in but wont survive everything. Can you do a quick sketch of how it is all connected, I cant quite see how you would have both the relay and motor connected to aux 9.

When you are outside of idle conditions the throttle will go to idle base position + offsets. At log time 0:16 your engine required 4.5% TPS to idle at the correct RPM, but your base position table has 5% for that temperature and 0.4% dashpot offset. So when you rev it the throttle will go to 5.4%, this is too much air so the RPM will never come back down below the RPM lockout to activate idle control. Your base position table needs to have 4.5% in it for this temperature. You can see also the E-throttle target is 5.4% but the TPS is at 6.2% for a little while, this means you need to increase integral gain in the e-throttle settings. Try 0.05.

Its not connected to aux 9 though right? It should be pin B5.

To elaborate a little further. You can only do single speed wiper control if you want to have park/braking or intermittent directly. There are workarounds but would require extra relay(s) and possibly physical switches (rather than keypad buttons) to do.

My testing for the 040's using Link drivers: Flow rate 892cc/min @ 300Kpa for petrol, I haven't tested this injector on ethanol yet.

Chassis related stuff definitely influences both knock volume and frequency so you have to re-verify and/or adjust after any changes like that. There is an example with frequency analysis in one of the Motec documents where from memory a rollcage and exhaust was fitted to a mitsi evo and it changed the knock frequency for best SNR.

Can you attach your tune and a short log - even with the engine off will be fine.

You would be best to compare in lambda rather than AFR. What do you have the stoichiometric ratio set to in the ecu and gauge?

Something like below is what I would use for an engine like that.

Can you give us another fresh log as well. start log, switch to run when stalled, attempt a TPS cal again, save log. You mean aux 7 right?

All those errors are coms issues but it shouldn't lose logs as far as I know, when downloading you are only making a copy, the original files stay in the ecu. Ill ask some of the smarter engineers next week.

That looks like you possibly have some faulty hardware. It is not the bootloader error as you are connected to the ecu and have live data. But at the beginning of your video none of the auxes have their assigned labels. Get in touch with tech support to get it checked out. [email protected]. Can you give us a pic of the >help>ecu information screen, you could potentially have one with the older bootloader.

Can you manually move the throttle blade fully open/closed and note down the AN3&6 voltages then enter those in manually as the open/closed voltages. Then if you change the "when stalled" setting to run, do you hear the throttle motor whining? And confirming the motor is connected to the 2 bottom left pins in B connector right?

Your APS and TPS error is because you have the (sub)100% setting set to 91%, it looks like both of your sub sensor work all the way to 100% so these should be set to 100%. Your idle log is not very useful as the engine never enters idle mode. The stall at log time 0:08, I assume this is you driving in overrun conditions with the clutch out? The ecu closes the TPS from 3.9% all the way down to 2.1% without the RPM changing - something must be keeping the RPM above target. Can you change all the orange settings below and do a new log which actually has some idling in it.

Yeah the view lock shouldnt prevent the table from opening a new view pane as far as I know. Some parent/child thing is not quite right there by the looks. It would be pretty rare to lock the cal settings on a page so I suspect it has just never been noticed. I will report it to the software guys next week.

Check the "MX5 1800" jumper near the main header, this controls a pull-up resistor that is part of the tacho circuit, some 1800 models need this and some dont, so if the jumper on your ecu is currently bridging these two pins then remove it, it the jumper is not bridging the two pins then move it so they are bridged.

What model MX5? and what ECU do you have?

whats the injector part number

I agree that the idle ign table is back to front. But the fuel set up looks wrong all over too - Its never going to idle well at 1.2lambda. The injector size is set to 980cc for fuel 1, it is set to 600cc for fuel 2. They should flow less with ethanol but that looks like a pretty extreme difference. The idle VE is 22% in fuel table 1, it is 63% at the same point in fuel table 2. The multi fuel density and temp coefficient appears to be set for E100 but the stoich ratio is set for about E85. The fuel pressure sensor calibration is wrong. Fuel pressure also doesnt increase linearly with MGP, probably due to the same issue. The min effective PW is set to 0.99ms, this is unlikely correct and will prevent you from achieving the correct lambda when running petrol. More typical value would be 0.2ms. The injector deadtime of 0.478ms at 14V is pretty unusual, not necessarily wrong but I would be doing some tests to confirm it is right. Not related to the current issue, but the boost control solenoid on Ign 7 isn't going to work well unless you have fitted your own freewheeling diode. If not I would suggest moving that to a proper aux output which has freewheeling built in.

I would say more likely the knock control system hasn't been set up or tuned correctly. The knock frequency you are using is pretty odd.

That is a non contact sensor but it outputs a normal 0-5v analog output. Variohm do make a digital/pwm version but no Motorsport gearbox would use that type.

The ecu can only see a change in RPM everytime it gets a crank tooth so the idle ign function will see a change in RPM much quicker when you have 900% more teeth. Dont be alarmed of the timing bouncing around though, that is pretty normal and it sounds like you probably just had less than normal with the old set up. I normally set D to 0, increase P until you either feel/hear the engine get noticeably harsher or sometimes you start to see the dwell get erratic first, then back it off a touch from there. I usually leave D at 0. If the dwell gets erratic it means the crank speed is getting too erratic for the ecu to predict position accurately. Probably something like +/-10% dwell is what I would consider "erratic". On all of my cars the derivative doesnt seem to help at all, I can usually feel a little more vibration come in whenever I have tried adding D. Our subaru with 36 teeth has P=1.0, D=0. A snip of a log below from that car just to give you an idea what I typically see in terms of how much idle ign is bouncing around and what I mean by stable dwell. The min clamp is 0 and max clamp is 35deg and I can see a range of about 0-20deg in this short snip.

At the time you saved that map the ECU was sending 70% duty cycle to the e-throttle motor but the TPS voltages show the throttle blade is still sitting in the closed/spring return position. It is not a PWM problem, either you have the throttle pinout wrong or there is a bad connection between the ecu and throttle motor. You can confirm you have the correct pins on the throttle body by measuring resistance between them. The motor pins will have quite low resistance between them - most likely between say 4 and 20 ohms. All the other pins will be 500ohms or higher.