Adamw

If the fuel pump isnt controlled by the ecu then that isnt a good test anyhow. Can you attach the tune so we can see if anything is controlled by the ecu that would give us some clues if it is ecu only that has lost power or all engine devices.

Use an OR condition looking at itself. i.e One of the conditions that controls Virtual aux 1 is = Virtual aux 1 is on. So once it comes on it stays on. You would then do an AND condition stating that the reset button must be off. As soon as the reset button is presse this condition becomes false so the virtual aux will turn off. Example of both added to the over boost warning: It doesnt log these as errors. They do pop up on the top of the screen if you have a laptop connected (so the tuner knows why it was misfiring...) but they dont trigger any stored fault code or CE lamp. You could set up an aux or virtual aux with Engine limits = 1 to give a warning when any limit was touched.

Can you not hear the fuel pump? Is the fuel pressure sensor attached to the dash or ecu? If ecu is powered off it wont be sending CAN to the dash...

So does the fuel pump keep running after engine has died?

Adjust the master fuel number until it runs ok. Also check the base timing.

Drop the proportional gain down to 7.0 to see if it is happier there. 10.0 is higher than I normally see. Wouldnt hurt to update the firmware before you tune also, lots of improvements in 5.6.8

Still PID needs work by the looks. You can see the first 2 open and close movements went ok, then on the third one it lost control and went into an unstable oscillation. Can you attach the current tune, I will see if I can offer a suggestion.

It means the ecu put max DC to the motor but it didnt reach fully open. Possibly means the PID still isnt close enough. If you have already calibrated throttle you dont need to do this again. Do us another log and I will check

Effectively yes, you have 4 falling edges at 180deg intervals. This is actually a very common bosch cam pattern used by GM, Ford, Mazda, VW, Honda etc.

This cam pattern should work with "Holden V6 VVTi" VVT mode.

Does the engine run? What trigger mode are you using? Would need to see a triggerscope to confirm VVT options. You can do a trigger scope capture in >ecu controls>trigger scope.

Would need to see a log after the change, definitely dont think it would be drivable as it was. Might be similar to the EvoX one:

>Idle Speed Control>Idle Up tables>startup Step table is adding 10% extra throttle for start up. More typical values for this table with E-throttle would be maybe 1 or 2% at the cold end and 0.5-1% and the warm end.

Looks usable now. May still need further PID tuning, but it is in the ballpark.

It would be pretty obvious if only the ECU had powered down - Anything connected to an AUX would be ON full time - fuel pump CE light etc. So if fuel pump isnt still running when this happens it means it is not just the ecu that has lost power - but everything on the Ign/ECU circuit.

Can you also give us a pic of your connection settings in PC Link (options>connection), and also a pic of your device manager with comports and USB sections expanded out like my example below.

Injection timing doesnt matter - engines with batch fire or even single point injection with no injection timing still start ok. Spark could certainly be an issue but you will need a timing light on it when it wont start to confirm that. Ideally for this test you would pull a timing belt cover off and paint a TDC mark on a cam pulley so you can confirm it is sparking not only at the correc t crank angle but also on compression stroke, not exhaust stroke. If you only check on the crank it may be syncing 360deg out but the timing would still look correct.

DFI Module pin C - connect to Link Trig 1. DFI pin F - Not connected DFI pin B (bypass), connect to Link 5V pin. DFI pin A connect to Link Ign 1. DFI Pin L to Link pin A7 (Shield/Gnd). DFI pin P to +12V. DFI pin K to Ground. 2 x crank sensors connected to DFI module pins N, M, J, H, G, as per factory wiring. ECU settings: Trig mode Multi tooth. 18 teeth, multitooth postn crank. Hall/opto, pull-up on, rising edge Trig 2 sync mode None. Ignition mode distributor, spark edge falling. Dwell table: Be aware you cant use ignition cut for rev limiting with the GM ign module.

I would pull it out of the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of little jumper leads or similar, then try connecting. This will at least eliminate all possible power issues - the fuel pump running continuous would possibly suggest the ecu isnt powered up. The easiest way to power up is via the barrel shaped TVS diode as shown below. Connect 12V to the stripped end and ground to the other.

Can you swap #1 & 2 coil, leads and plugs. Have you squirted water all around the manifold, injector holes etc to confirm no leaks?

Was that trigger scope taken when the engine wouldnt start? I would bump the arming thresholds up a little as there is a little bump in the cam waveform that shouldnt be there, could possibly be counted as an extra tooth. Try something like this:

Your attachment is not available. Can you upload again. I need both the tune and a log.

Can you give us a copy of the tune and a trigger scope at idle. Is the trigger wheel etc a commercially available kit or DIY?

Accel enrichment is adding 60% to the primary since you just stabbed the throttle. So we can probably drop the accel clamp at higher rpm to prevent that from "stealing" too much available DC. I made a few small changes in your map below. Do another log with this. amendedmap3.7.2022.pclr

The log has very little recorded. Next time you need to go to >logging>setup logging> PC log, then hit the "add all" button down the bottom. The whining noise is normal. The oscillation is just your PID needs tuning. Try proportional around 7.00, Integral 0.10 and derivative 30.00