Adamw

Yeah I tend to agree, it looks like a large internal hydraulic leak, even in the "working" log you can see ecu sending 100% to the solenoid for quite some time but cam doesnt reach target until RPM is up to about 3500. Similarly at the when you lift off at the end of the run the VVT drifted back towards home even with ecu sending 100% to the solenoid.

Join the colours:

I highly doubt a heat gun will do anything. You will need a much larger heat source.

I think it is mostly ignition related - although with no lambda fuel is completely unknown. Idle valve position is reasonably stable so it doesnt appear that idle air control is a big contributor. Try the attached map. I have tidied up the ignition table around the idle area, enabled idle ign control and disabled the ECT ign trim. See if this helps, if not you are going to need a lambda to see what is going on with fuel. 698054618_55-Shelleychangeto3barGMmapsensor idle tweaks.pclr

Then tell us the version number of your ecu as I have shown above and attach a copy of your map and we will take a look.

Set the disable digital input to off and it will then become active above the TP and RPM lockouts.

Would really need to see a log to make any suggestions, but none of your cold start settings look too far out of the ordinary. What injectors and what fuel? Possibly not tune related at all. Some of the modified injectors give very poor atomisation which has a large impact on cold start performance.

It should be flashing green when the car is moving or the GPS is outputting a speed. Apparently you can test by holding the button down for 10sec and it will start pulsing the output at 60kmh.

Ok, the firmware engineer suspects you may have a corrupt log file in the ecu which is where the divide by zero is coming from. Some variable is divided by the logging rates when you open the download form. I will PM you a tweaked version of PC Link to test, it should ignore the error and allow you to get to the download screen so you can delete the logs in there. Let me know if that solves it.

Do you have valid speed showing in the ECU software? Is the DI function assigned as one of the wheel speeds?

I've asked the engineers for advice on this one. What happens if you load one of the base maps in - does your "logging enabled" check box stick then?

I dont have one for a Rotary but I would expect still to be some heating from the hot manifold and cooling jacketed intake port at low air speeds. Less effect than a piston engine where the intake charge is passing over a valve that is a few hundred degrees. You can start at zero, get a small area of your fuel map tuned so that lambda is on target, then increase air temp (while coolant temp is relatively constant) and see if mixture stays on target. Sometimes you can do this by blocking the intercooler with cardboard or using something like brake ducting on the turbo to suck hot air off the exhaust manifold or similar.

The "Circuit open relay" is effectively just a fuel pump relay. Connect it to an aux and set to FP. STP and ELS arent used in the plug-in and arent really needed. Most likely the OEM ecu used them to improve idle emissions.

Also, tacho is on a different aux depending on the bottom board revision number, you can find it where I have marked the pic below. I dont remember exactly when the change was made, but if it is somewhere around V1.5 or lower then tacho is on Aux 4, newer versions tacho is on Ign 5.

4 cyl engines due to the abrupt 180 deg compression events always tend to "stop" at a similar crank angle. So your starter always engages in these same two areas and over time you get two small patches of worn teeth on the ring gear 180deg apart. When the wear is bad enough it effects the waveform and amplitude of the signal so much that you you will struggle to trigger off them reliably and you will get trigger errors - usually at high RPM. I dont have any direct experience with the M10, but Porsche 944's with the similar motronic system used to be terrible and even with the oem ecu you would have to replace the flywheel every ten years or so. Yes you can see it in the triggerscope.

If it is working, yes. But surely you can move something like your fan or fuel pump wire to the ignition output to give the tach a proper aux? You can move pins without even any tools required.

Your triggerscope is fine. Have you put the relevant parameters on your timeplot? You should not have an inline resistor. Where did that info come from? It is good practice to add a pull-up resistor with these ZF sensors for high-tooth count wheels so it sounds like you have it wrong.

Since our plug-in ECU is designed for a civic it unlikely uses these pins. The connector/pin numbers on these ecu's are normally labelled A**/B** etc as per pic below. Can you tell me which pins you are calling 52 & 53?

If that is the case then your original suggestion of your switch grounding relay pin 85 is fine. The other option is connect the switch to a DI and use a virtual aux & GP output for the fan function.

And your switch will work fine as drawn.

The subaru controllers actually work fine with a normal aux (12V), but the other option is use an ignition output (6V) or a 5V zener diode connected inline with your aux.

Yes, all our ecus support the BMW 116 flywheel teeth + 1 TDC. Note it is only capable of wasted spark and batched injection. Flywheel teeth must be in good condition.

That is what I said, that is a pull-up. Your relay coil and the ignitor were effectively just working as a pull-up. If you move your tach wire to one of the proper aux outs you wont need the pull-up

I can confirm there appears to be something weird going on in your map. I just done a quick bench test in an ecu here and the outputs are definitely not behaving as expected. When I load a map in from my car the outputs behave correctly. Ive tried adjusting a few things but havent spotted what is causing it yet. I will have to get back to it tomorrow and have a closer look as its 10:30pm here now. Edit, added later: Ok, update, I played a little more. I think there is some bug in the initialization of the auxes. With your map in an ecu I changed the E-throttle PWM output to "Aux1/2", then back to Aux 9/10 and suddenly the auxes started working in phase correctly. Try loading your map below, it should be fixed in this map. basefile fixed.pclx

The ignition outputs are only pulled up to about 6V so your tacho may want more than that. You could try a 1kohm pull-up resistor connected to 12V. Or if you have an aux output you can swap with the ignition output, as they are already pulled up to 12V.