Adamw

Kind of sounds like you have a an ignition timing issue if adding starter spray doesnt help. You really need to confirm that you are somewhere close with a timing light. Note since you are wasted spark it should run even if your offset it 360 out so you dont need to try both say 276 and -84. If you got some signs of life at 276, then you could try advancing it say 30 deg (306) to see if it gets better or worse, but really a timing light is the best way to confirm. I just noticed it is pulling a lot of vacuum for only cranking so that may suggest the throttle is very closed/not letting any air in, I would hold that open a bit to see if that helps too. Otherwise as far as the log goes it appears it has fuel and spark so should be capable of running assuming the timing is close.

Note for a linear sensor you can just use the 2 point cal 4/5/6 instead of having to calculate every point. For example something like this would cover your new values:

No, if you have a VE of 150% something is still off. The fuel pressure sensor calibration looks pretty odd. What sensor do you have? Since you have not far off realistic VE at idle, but very high under boost, it suggests maybe a fuel pressure issue.

Yes, if the 5V output is overloaded it will generally cycle on and off. Quickest way to confirm a wiring issue is just to pull the 5V wire out of the ecu plug, plug ecu back in and switch ign back on. Then check in the runtimes screen if the 5V output has returned to normal. If it has then you have something overloading the 5V output. The 5V reg that is connected to the outside world is rated at 400mA (enough to power about 50 typical sensors), but they can actually drive more than that - just with reduced accuracy. They dont shut down until somewhere above 1A, so it usually needs to be a fairly serious short usually to trip it out.

1ohm would probably work but the injectors may get hot internally so I dont know if it will be good for long term life. I do know those injectors work ok with 2.2ohm so my suggestion is stick with the known. RS components stock check is not working when I checked, so I dont know which of these they have in stock, but here's 3 options all around similar prices: https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/7205205 https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/7547288 https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/0158317

The problem you describe usually happens if you have two aux outputs assigned to the same function. So, check through all your aux/ign/fuel outputs that you dont have another set to fuel pump. Also check any with odd "non link" names as the label can hide one that is set to fuel pump.

Note the colours of the expansion harnesses have changed a few times over the years, you need to work off positions rather than colours. The ecu has a termination resistor built in for one end of the bus. You should fit a resistor at the other end close to the AEM device.

Yes.

Does the error code come back straight away when you clear it? Can you do a short PC log just of it sitting there not running, but with ign switch on.

Gear shift control strategy in G4X is pretty much the same as G4+ at present. There is no shift actuator logic, such as a paddle shift system, it is still based around systems where the driver is moving the lever. BTW, as for FTD2XX.DLL problem, it is just the latest 6.19 that is looking for that driver, but you could download 6.18 to have a look around.

You are on very old firmware 6.16.27, long term fuel trim wasnt introduced until 6.18.8. Unfortunately new features dont just magically appear in your ecu all by themselves, you need to update the firmware to get all the recent improvements and fixes.

In your scope, trig 1 voltage is barely just touching 0.4V so with the arming at 0.4V it is missing the odd tooth. Trigger 2 looks ok as is I think. That is lower than what I normally see from an FD sensor, so it wouldnt hurt to check that the sensor air gap meets the factory specs. Anyhow, I think change your trig 1 arming threshold to something like this will fix it.

No, its not going to work. To power up the ecu it needs 12V on pin A5, in your diagram that wouldnt happen. Normally the diode is between A5 and the DI, so when you first switch power on it goes through the diode into A5 to power up the ECU - then the ecu an switch on the aux to close the main relay. Secondly, your diagram would also cause a back feed as the aux output has constant 12V on it all the time.

Some others may give more useful advice, but most 6cyl Nissans from the 90's will probably fit. I dont know if there are any differences in the mounting brackets though. Here's what it is known to fit:

It would be pretty unusual to need more advance during acceleration in an evo. Typically they need retard under acceleration to prevent knock, some of this may be due to the low resolution crank trigger wheel wjhich will cause extra advance during acceleration. However, if you really want more advance, then turn on a 4D ign table, set it to always on, the put TPS delta on one axis.

I suspect your MAP sensor calibration is wrong. It is obviously pretty close at atmosphere when the engine isnt running, but it doesnt look realistic at all when it is running under vacuum. You only have 16kpa at 4000RPM and 25% throttle, and it goes down to 4kpa (near absolute zero) in moderate over-run which is near impossible. Most of the GM sensors cant even go below 20Kpa. Whats the part number for the sensor?

They are pretty hard to damage as they are protected in several ways from all the common scenarios such as mis-wiring, over loading etc. They are a 4 channel driver so in the rare case you do damage the driver you will usually have 4 aux outputs that dont work. So I would look very closely at the wiring before concluding there is a hardware issue. Even power the ecu up on the bench and put the aux in test mode to confirm.

Have a look at this vid from about the 9:00 minute mark, see if that helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCIWyjhvBqE

Yes, boost target is absolute. "MAP target" would be a more accurate description.

The pigtail with the 6 pin round connector on it will be the USB tuning connection. The CAN connection uses basically the same cable - so you will need to buy another one of those cables (CANPCB) and the mating CANF plug to connect a dash. The V44 supports E-throttle using an external driver. You will also need 3 aux outputs spare and 3 extra analog inputs spare. E-throttle module: https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET CANPCB: https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANPCB_2 CANF: https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2

Can you compare MGP on the laptop and dash with engine running and let me know how they compare.

Ignition does (wasted spark), but fuel doesnt.

The ECU needs returning for modification or replacement. RMA = Return Material Authorisation. We dont really have a true "RMA" process - but we do ask the customer to fill out a form before sending so when an ECU turns up we know who the ecu is from and what we have it for. Also as part of that we give them shipping instructions so they dont get stung with customs/tax.

Set up will be the same as normal - with just the trigger types changed to hall. Use 1JZ VVti trigger mode and VVT mode. Set both trig 1 & 2 to hall, falling edge, pull-ups on. Ill put a pic below. I just googled that kit - man what a load of marketing crap they have on their page. The stock VR sensors are better in almost every way. If you havent already changed the wiring I would suggest you keep the stock sensors. If not then dont be too concerned, not really a down grade - but certainly not an upgrade either... I suspect the real reason they make that kit is because Haltech ecu's dont have a triggerscope so they have trouble diagnosing VR sensors wired incorrect polarity, and their VR conditioner is a bit flakey at low voltages too, again hard to diagnose with no scope. Just because these types of vague uneducated marketing claims annoy me, im going to do a little rant and add some counter argument: The benefits of using Hall Effect Sensors over VR (Magnetic) sensors is a long list: Resistance to Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI) A VR sensor voltage output rises with RPM, this means at higher RPM where noise immunity is more important, is has far higher signal to noise ratio than a hall sensor. Very little or no filtering required Why? if you have the same operating conditions/environment then both hall and VR are going to need the same filtering. In some cases a VR probably needs less due to better SNR. No minimum engine speed to produce a minimum trigger voltage. Important with a slow cranking motor especially with low battery voltage This is the only one that is slightly true, Although all factory VR sensors I have seen put out acceptable voltage from about 50RPM. Not many engines will start when turning that slow regardless of sensor. Triggers precisely on trigger edge and not on trigger voltage threshold position in VR's waveform (which can vary with motor speed) Incorrect, VR's trigger at the zero crossing which is always exactly in the center of the tooth regardless of speed. Hall sensors have what is called a rise and fall time, so they dont trigger "precisely on the edge", they trigger a fixed time delay after the edge - which means the delay angle varies with RPM. Easy Cam and Crank Syncing Huh? The sensors are reading the same pattern and feeding it to the ECU. There is no difference to the signal the micro processor will receive. Precise Ignition Timing There is very little in it either way, but most would say a VR is more accurate due to no rise/fall time delay. No Ignition Timing Float Again same as above. A hall will exhibit more drift with RPM due to rise/fall time - although barely detectable either way. Immune to Target Runout Maybe a valid comment for a DIY triggerwheel that somebody has mounted by eye, but have you ever seem a factory crank trigger wheel runout? Rotational Alignment to target is not critical Not sure what this means? Isnt the kit is meant to fit in the factory holes? High Speed Operation (up to 15khz) How is this an advantage? A VR sensor is unlimited. On top of all that a VR sensor has no electronics inside, so it is more reliable and not sensitive to heat or vibration.

The factory ballast wont work, it will limit the current too much and those injectors get lazy if you limit them too much. You will need to make a heat-sinked bank of 6, 2.2ohm, 50W resistors. Something similar to this one that we make: https://dealers.linkecu.com/BAL6, except ours are only 4.7ohm, 25W so not suitable for these injectors.