Adamw

Are you running the latest firmware 6.18.11? I know there was recently a delay added and a couple of other changes to the way the max inj DC warning works. Im pretty sure that was a couple of releases ago. If you are on latest firmware and still getting it then attach a log so I can take a look. It shouldnt come on unless you have been above 100%DC for more than 200ms so you are getting into dangerous territory.

12V is fine to input into an analog input. Just they can only measure to 5V, so anything above 5V will just show as 5V. When the error high is set to 5.0V the fault detection is disabled.

(711gm/min)/(0.745g/cc) = 954cc/min. I would suggest you set your injector driver settings in the ECU to 2A peak, 0.5A hold and then use the Type A data since it follows a more predictable curve. Still, I dont think this is the main cause of your low VE numbers.

What happens if you shake/wiggle/bang/stretch/bend the wiring and pedal? You can clearly see the voltage change in the log so something is up. Do the same at the ecu end of the loom too.

Unlikely. Why would they use an offset if they are signing it? Typically you either use a signed byte or you use an offset, there is little reason to do both as they are both different techniques to achieve the same outcome - the ability to read temperatures below zero. Set it up like I said originally and see what it reads. If it really is signed it will still read correctly up to about half way and then will do a big jump and start going backwards.

There is something wrong with your pedal. The relationship between the two sensors goes out of sync after a short time. The reason it works in set up mode is because comparison between the two sensors is disabled in set-up mode, it just uses the main. The weird thing is when it starts to read wrong, both AP main and AP sub seem to change - it would be unlikely that both sensors fail at the same time. It might pay to look at the 5V and sensor ground - possibly one has a bad crimp or something. The log shows the 5V output is still working ok so and all other 5V sensors are reading correct so it is something isolated to AP sub and main.

Have a read of the guide in the help file page: VX ECU Tuning Functions > Boost Control > Closed Loop Boost Control >Closed Loop Boost Setup Guide Basically you tune it in closed loop mode, but with the PID all set to zero (so it is effectively open loop). You need to tune the wastegate DC table with a boost target rows to cover the range of boost targets that you intend to run. So if you want to target 26psi in the future you will need a row in your wastegate DC table somewhere around that. The difference between say 20psi Vs 26psi might be 20 or 30% DC so a DC table that only gets you to 20psi is not going to work if you change the target to 26psi.

Another trick we use on some of the plug-in ECUs is put a diode or two inline on the DI. With a standard diode you will get a 0.7V drop over the diode - so it would lower your 2Vmin to 1.3V. If you connect two diodes in series your 2V min would drop to 0.6V.

For a start, as others have said above, you need an E-throttle relay assigned. Its hard to tell then problem since the log is long and you have constantly changed the settings through it. So, I suggest: Assign an aux output to E-throttle relay - it doesnt need to be connected to anything for testing but I strongly suggest you connect it to your PDM in future so the ECU can shut off power to the throttle if there is ever a safety issue. For AN V 3 & 4, set the error low to 0.0 and error high to 5.0 (just for testing so that the error settings dont confuse what we see in the log). Do a new log, with E-throttle in ON mode and move the pedal a few times until the error occurs, also move the pedal a couple more times after it has gone into limp mode.

Correctly setting the charge temp would normally be all that is required. At least, I have never needed to use the IAT trim personally. If by "heat soak" you mean a lean hot re-start issue or something then you may need it.

Need to see the log, but 3 things that initially jump out at me from a quick look. MAP & BAP are very different - They should be identical with engine off. That suggests your MAP calibration is wrong. In fuel settings your Min Effective PW is set to 0.97ms - You could possibly be sitting against that at idle so fuel table has no affect. Try it at zero. Your Fuel pressure sensor calibration is unlikely correct. The 7 Bar calibration is for the Link 7Bar MAP sensor. Also, You have gear shift cut set up to DI1 which is ignition switch. It would pay to turn gear shift control and traction control off until you have the tune working right.

The coolant temp in G4+ is stored with +50 offset applied, so this is why it needs -10 for the output. Signed 8 bit with an offset of 40 would only give you a max temp of 85deg so I highly doubt it is signed.

Ok if your freinds info is correct then the settings below would be how to set it up. Your original screenshot doesnt show any ID's 77A or FA though. Note you will need to be connected to the ECU part of the bus, not the OBD side. Set up channel 1 & 2 like below: Set up stream 1 & 2 like this:

Yes, it needs to be tuned, that was just a start up map to make it run.

That comes from whoever made the loom generally.

As I say, unplug a couple of aux pins at a time until you find your culprit. They come out easy - no tools needed. You want at least Injectors and ignition coils to remain connected to the same source as the ecu so it can apply correct deadtimes and dwell times.

The next thing I would try: With the ecu still plugged in and ign switch on (use a pin/needle poked into the connector beside the wire so it touches the terminal inside), check if there is 12V on pin 109 (this is the ign switch). If that looks ok, check there is 0V (gnd) on pin 111 (this is the main relay trigger). If that looks ok, check there is 12V on pin 119 & 120 (these are the main power supplies from the main relay). That should give us a good idea where the problem lay.

The back feed can only be caused by one of the accesories that is connected to an aux output being "hot fed" (live all the time, not ignition switched). Remove the diode, find which aux is causing the backfeed and move it to an ignition switched feed. The easiest way is often to pull say 2 aux output pins out of the main connector at a time until the problem goes away, then you can narrow down which one it is. Ignition outputs and injector outputs on the Storm cant backfeed so it is only the aux outputs you need to investigate. Correct main power wiring is below, and I have also attached some extra reading about backfeeding from the help file.

The problem is the diode you have drawn in the main ECU power supply - you need to remove that. The flyback from the solenoids needs to be able to go back to the battery though that wire, having the diode there will prevent that. With nowhere for the flyback to go it will just "pump up" the ECU voltage.

On the early revisions of the G4X plug-in ecu the ignition driver gives a short pulse during boot-up, which has been found to be enough to cause a single weak spark at power up with some ignition systems. For some reason it is mostly WRX's that have reported this issue. The hardware has since been updated to solve this. If you contact [email protected] with your serial number and location they will advise the process of getting it replaced with the new revision ecu.

You dont need to configure anything for the the GPS08 as far as I know, just plug it in to the EXP connector and it should work right away (takes a couple of minutes to work the first time it is powered up).

There are definitely plans in the future to investigate other comms options for the next generation of ecu's, but with G4X we have stuck with USB so that PC Link didnt need a complete re-write as well (Months, if not years of work for our small team). The comms chipset that is in the G4X is capable of native high speed USB 2.0 as well - not only the virtual com port system that is being used at present so in theory it has the potential to be very fast. I believe this is being worked on. Ethernet is nice and robust, resilient to noise and makes wireless easy, but it has some significant negatives too. You need a server running on you laptop which becomes quite complex - especially as PC security gets stricter everyday around IP. For example with most ECU's that use ethernet comms that I have used you need to assign a static IP to your ethernet port and you cant access internet or a network (via wifi) while connected to the ecu - so no saving files to a network location or retrieving from your onedrive etc. We have many users that struggle to install a simple USB driver, so you can imagine the potential headache a more complex server install and configuring ethernet adapters, IP addresses etc could cause. Not impossible if the software and documentation is done well (Motec is pretty easy setup for example), but still a potential big can of worms. It is also not as fast as you think. Fast Ethernet is 100Mbps theoretical max, the few ECU's I have experience with only get about 30Mbps max in real life. USB2.0 is 480Mbps theoretical max. USB3.0 is 5Gbps.

No it will not be added to G4+. G4+ would need a total re-write due to the way knock is based on ignition events which is why we started from scratch with the G4X.

Just set the trigger mode to PT cruiser 2.4. It is an exact match so nothing else is needed from us.

DI10 is the main enable switch for cruise control. The neutral switch is a good option as suggested.