Adamw

Ok, with an X-series you can connect via CAN bus. You will need a CANPCB cable and a CANF plug to access the CAN bus on a plug-in ECU. Connection will look something like below - note AEM documentation uses slightly deiiferent terminology to us - they call CAN H "AEMnet+" and CAN L is "AEMnet-". Instructions for the software set up is in the helpfile article > G4X ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information > AEM X-series

Correct you likely wont need to use anything on the expansion connector. And correct you can use the same TPS input for cable TB or electronic throttle. However you will need to add a DBW relay unless your chassis already has one (the V10 WRX that this ECU was designed for already has this separate relay). The E-throttle relay is triggered by pin C28 (ignition 8), and when energised, the relay supplies 12V to pin C1. E-throttle motor+ is pin D4 (aux 9) and E-throttle motor - is pin D5 (aux 10).

Yes, I dont see any reason why not.

How many positions does the switch have? How do you want the "boost levels" displayed? i.e 0/1/2/3/4... or L/M/H...

In traditional fuel mode there are 3 idle load fuel trims in the fuel corrections menu.

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Looking at wiring diagrams online it looks like the engine ECU isnt connected to the same bus as the OBD2 socket. The ECU CAN connects to the "passenger compartment computer" (this maybe the dash?), and the OBD2 socket connects to the passenger compartment computer via a 2nd bus - so this is a gateway device. You will need to connect your sniffer directly to the ECU CAN bus if thats what you want to duplicate. ECU pin 27 is CANH and 57 is CAN L.

Share your video with onedrive or google drive etc.

Yeah, I agree with Keizsr here. Intel never made a win10 driver for the HD3000, the last "end of life" update for this graphics chip was in 2015 only to support Win 7 & 8. The driver you are using is one that Microsoft have built to try to make it work in win10 but obviously some of the OpenGL support is flakey. Downgrade to win 7 is probably the most likely fix. You could also try uninstalling the current microsoft driver and see if the Intel win 8.1 driver will install - sometimes they will.

For the knock you probably just need to set the disable input to off and it will work. You should also update the firmware as you are on a very old version and there have been many improvements since.

I think the next step is to pull the cover off to confirm if it is powered up or not.

Yes, it is possible that the TPS is in a position that results in the TPS output to the attessa is too low. Also check the TPS jumper J1 on your bottom board Some R33's use the 1:1 setting, some use the 2:3 setting.

Yeah, can you give us a photo or something, and attach a copy of your map. I havent seen anything like this.

I think you might be looking at the diagnostics comms rather than the actual ecu comms to dash. The ECU stream would more commonly be 500K, and I would expect to see more ID's. It is not always on the same bus as the OBD2 port. Typically the way you reverse engineer the bus is isolate as much as you can, then vary one measured item and watch what changes in the data. For instance for your coolant temp, you would test with engine not running (so there is less data moving on the screen), fit a potentiometer in place of the temp sensor and vary the resistance - you should then be able to see which byte(s) of data is varying as you change the temperature and also if multiple bytes you can see which is the MSB/LSB and the max and min range. Once you know where the data is, then you can plug the sensor back in and put it in ice and boiling water to get 2 known calibration points so you can work out how the data is scaled. What model car?

Sorry, I only just had a spare minute to take a look. That file you have attached isnt the dash config - it should have a .zconfig extension. Go to the config page is RS3, put a tick in the checkbox for your config, then click the export button at the top.

It sounds like someone may be feeding you a bit of a story? I had a brief chat to our USA office on Friday, none of them knew anything about this claim of 20 "faulty ecu's", or had any knowledge of anyone waiting for a "Link liasion" to visit Xcessive. The last support case we have logged in the support system for Xcessive was back in January and it was not for a faulty ECU. Our USA manager called Xcessive to query your problem and I didnt get a detailed story but it sounds like they believe they have a problem in their adapter harness? So as far as I can gather at this time it is not us that has been holding your job up. Does your car have an adapter harness? What model car is it?

All sensors are connected to the same 5V and same sensor ground internally. If one sensor overloads the 5V, then all sensors will be effected. You cant wire a knock sensor to the expansion loom, it needs to be wired to the knock pin which already has the factory sensor connected to it. You dont find "calibration values" for a knock sensor, you need to calibrate the system yourself. Can you attach the map so I can take a look at your settings.

In modelled mode the "fuel table" represents air flow (Volumetric Efficiency). It needs to show realistic volumetric efficiency numbers otherwise much of the calculation is wrong. If you have acheived the correct AFR but the VE table has unrealistic VE numbers then it usually means your fuel flow data is wrong. As per the help file if you dont have accurate data especially for the injectors and fuel pressure then you are better to use traditional mode. I suggest you turn on asynchronous injection, set min async PW to 0.5 then change your accel sense table to 2.0 right across as a starting point. Your whole tune is actually quite a mess, I would suggest trying to find a tuner with more experience. The fuel tune really needs to be started from scratch, the ignition table doesnt look like it has been tuned at all.

Error code 43 is just because you had the temp sensor unplugged. When it is unplugged the temp will default to whatever temp you have set as the fault value - so that doesnt necessarily mean above you fan activation temp. To test your fan you can go to the engine fan settings and use the aux test function that is just below the relevant fan output setting. The other two errors are just warnings that showed in old firmware - update to the latest firmware and clear the errors and they will be gone. For the VVT you will need to give us a log and a copy of your tune.

If it has 2 DBW motors then only the Thunder can do that (G4+), currently we dont have a G4X with dual DBW capability.

So the engine no longer runs either? Does it still crank over etc?

The two "Low reference" pins on the pedal connect to sensor ground, the two "5V reference" on the pedal connect to the 5V pin on the Expansion harness. The rest is all correct.

What is the part number of the AEM gauge you have? Is it an X-series?

A faulty IAT sensor isnt going to make your TPS erratic, so as above it is more likely something these have in common which would be the 5V supply or the sensor ground. Yes the AEM sensor PN30-2014 is the exact same sensor that we sell as far as I can tell. But the symtopms you have described dont seem to fit a faulty temp sensor. You can test it by measuring its resistance with a multimeter. Yes it will work with the stock sensor, but the tuner will need to calibrate the knock control system before you can use it.