Adamw

Yeah there is nothing much you can do about the steering ROC when the variable is designed to be calculated a separate device. The steering position parameter I can put it on the list to look at, it could potentially be assignable but the general idea has been trying to keep the rarely used functions covered by generic functions where possible. Neither of my suggestions would work in the vehicle plan view. Ive never really studied it but I always assumed pressure was static (controlled by the relief valve) and the pump speed control just varies the flow rate. There is no generic user configurable PID control loops at present but I believe there are plans to cover this type of functionality some how in the future.

Yes, it will only update when lockouts have been met, it appears it was designed that way. It does actually work correctly just not intuitive as you say.

Yes our 1UZ map will be a pretty good starting point. There should be another cam sensor at the front of the engine somewhere near one of the sprockets. The front sensor should be connected to trigger 2, the mid sensors should be connected to the DIs. I personally would have put the LH cam on DI1 and Aux 1 and the RH to DI2/Aux 2, so it matches our base map but it will still work the way you have done it. The DI's 1-6 are designed to take VR sensors ok.

The knocklink works pretty well as a warning device once the engine has been tuned, but I wouldnt be using one for tuning. Audio knock is what you want for tuning.

What is the resistance between the two pins on the switch when you press the different buttons? Also, with if you measure voltage across the two wires coming from the ECU (switch unplugged) do you get 5V?

Steering Pos ROC is not an ecu calculated channel, on modern cars that have steering position sensors, the ROC is calculated directly by the sensor on the column and sent over CAN. I dont see why you think it is silly to use a GP Analog, this is exactly what they are designed for. The math for ROC is fairly easy. Example below would give you Deg/sec updated every 0.01s (100Hz).

Yes, it mostly looks ok. A couple of comments: I would turn the 4D fuel table off since you have a single throttle (it has zero's in it anyway) and remove the comment from the memo text about tuning 4D so it doesnt confuse the tuner. Check your fuel pressure cal 4, I suspect that Input value B should be 4.5V, not 5V. Your oil temp doesnt appear to be reading correct. Pull-up resistor needs to be turned on on DI6 for the flex sensor.

Suggested changes in blue below. Since you are wasted spark the coils are controlled in pairs so you cant have individual cylinder control, hence we only assign Cyl 1 & 2 (3 & 4 are still controlled, just dont get their own table) I have moved the window start later so it is only listening at the crank angle that knock is likely to occur at and will avoid listening during the TDC piston slap event.

If you've got spark, RPM is displayed correctly and the timing looks correct then its a good sign your trigger settings are correct. How did you work this out? You cant be 180 out on a 6 cylinder, there is a firing event only every 120degs. If the timing mark is aligned but you think it is firing on exhaust stroke then this would be 360 deg out. So did you change your offset by 360 or 180? Has the engine been running previously with a different trigger or is it all a new install? Can you give us a short log of it cranking and attach a copy of your tune also.

Its really anyones guess without a log or some clues to work from. It could be anything from a misfire due to a lack of ignition energy, some sort of engine protection limiter set too close, some mechanical issue such as a sticking wastegate or boost leak, or even something like fuel surge due to the harder launch.

That would depend on how it has been mapped. If its not using a flex sensor and just one fuel/VE table then I would expect it to get leaner with an increase in ethanol content (assuming CLL wasnt active), but if it has been mapped with a flex sensor blending between two different VE tables and two different sets of fuel settings then it will do whatever the tuner has set it up to do.

Most likely your error settings. Set error low to 0 and error high to 5 will disable them to confirm (also make sure the high/low are the right way around).

Agree with Vaughan that it looks like the fuel table needs some work, even in the "progressive" log Lambda is ~1.2. But I would say your symptoms suggest you may have a lack of ignition energy. You may be able to try closing the spark plug gap or a little more dwell depending on what coils you have. Your batt voltage is quite high so dwell is quite low.

Sw cond 2 will need to be "=" , then the statement will be true when "AC Request is equal to Active".

It has just kissed your MAP limit, probably not for long enough to be captured in the 40Hz PC log. Your MAP limit was set at 310Kpa, and MAP just touches 300.0Kpa at that point, the default MAP limit control range is 10KPa, so that means it will start to limit 10Kpa before the set limit.

Same way you check it when it is running. Connect a timing light to #1 coil and crank it over. Adjust offset until the timing marks line up.

No, the stock pedal - assuming your car was originally DBW will be fine.

It will depend on how complex the bus is, the E46 due to its age has a very simple bus. The Link ECU can duplicate the E46 messages no worries using just the generic tools. The E82 being 10 years newer I suspect will be much more complex, and likely wont be possible without somekind of 3rd party device in-between to do some of the more complex calculations that will be required. Just to give you an idea, the couple of cars I have worked on from a similar era as a "spare time project" if I tallied up my hours I suspect would be in the ballpark of around 100hours work to reverse engineer just the comms relevant to the engine ecu - and I have a reasonably level of understanding of CAN. So if you were going to be paying someone to do that you would want some sort of fixed price up front as you certainly dont want to be paying someone for 100 hrs of work.

Ok, that suggests either you have a bad connection or the sensor is not a reluctor/VR. A VR sensor will usually have a resistance between 300-1200ohm.

Ok, I had a quick look, the loopbunny stuff is no use as that appears to be all from the low speed K bus, not the highspeed PT bus that the ECU usually interfaces with. Not much of interest on the bimmerforum link either, that looks like again mostly the K bus. I think removing the factory ecu will need a lot more work, there will be all kinds of wake up messages for various modules as well as probably checksums and counters and heartbeats to keep things happy. I would suggest getting a cheap socket CAN device, install linux on an old laptop and start doing some basic reverse enginerering yourself while you still have a OEM ecu in place - savvycan is a good free software tool or linux has some basic stuff built in.. But how much of it (or any of it) the fury will be able to duplicate is a big unknown.

Your log shows no errors on the lambda and it is controlling temperature ok. It is a bit odd for a sensor to fail without any errors being logged but if nothingh else obvious I would suggest trying another sensor.. Is the sensor still definitely still in the exhaust system and exposed to exhaust gas? Any chance of a big air leak like a sucking air in through the wastegate dump or something?

I dont think you will be able to get the tacho working if the factory ECU is still in place sending out 0 RPM all the time? The AC may be possible, but you need the correct info in the first place. Your pasted text above suggests it maybe on ID 242, but then the loopbunny site doesnt even have a 242 ID but instead may show something related on 2D6 or 2E6, so you need to either sniff yourself or get more reliable data - you cant just do it by trial and error.

Ok, you originally said "BTI gauge" which was why I was confused, you actually have a BTI Dash. So these analog outputs are for if you want buttons on the dash screen to adjust boost aim or traction control slip - kind of like having a knob on the dash. I guess they may allow you to configure them as other functions such as launch control etc too. Connect them to any analog input, set it up as a GP input or 0-5V input then use that input as one of the axes on your boost or traction tables.

Can you attach the manual or a photo of the note in the manual so I can see how it is worded.

That means the input is going above and below your error settings. It probably does that during the warmup phase. You have to set the error conditions outside of the normal voltage range that the device outputs.