Adamw

Did you try following the Link specific "how to add channels" instructions here?: https://www.plex-tuning.com/instructions/SDM_Instructions/how_to_add_more_channels.htm?ms=QgABEA%3D%3D&st=MA%3D%3D&sct=MA%3D%3D&mw=MjQw

CAN inputs and outputs are scaled differently in G4X. For your lambda set the divider to 1000 will make it work the same as G4+. For the cruise switch you will need a pull-up resistor to 5V.

You didnt do something right during that triggerscope by the looks. Did you only click the capture button when the engine was cranking?

As far as I can see DI10 should be fine for general use, there is nothing special connected to it internally. Do you have ~12V on that pin with the switch off?

You've got Engine fan 1 function assigned to both Aux 6 and Ignition drive 8. You can only have a function assigned to one output. If you only have 1 fan then turn off whichever one you are not using. If you have 2 fans then assign function Engine Fan 2 to one of the outputs instead.

Ah yes, now I look closer some of it is caused by closed loop lambda. Its pulling lots of fuel out in cruise conditions then when you come to idle it cant remove that trim quick enough. I would change the CLL RPM low lockout to about 1600RPM so it is disabled at idle and when coming into idle. The min Eff PW that I mentioned above will probably help a lot too.

The unlock code is wrong. You will have to go back to the dealer to get the correct code. Make sure you give him the correct serial number (100304) as I can see that serial number has never had an unlock code generated in our system.

It is just like any other input or output in the ECU - you can one have a function assigned to a single input or output. For instance you cant assign IAT to an analog input and IAT to a temp input at the same time as the ECU will not know which one to use. When you assign the "Cruise Control Switches" function to an analog input, then the On switch, Set switch, Cancel and resume are all assigned to that analog input. You cant then assign "cancel" to a digital input at the same time as it is already assigned to a DI. All of the other switches you mention - clutch, brake etc, are fine as you only have them assigned to one input.

I dont think you will be able to generate the messages with the generic tools as there are special counters and heart beat type data included. Did you try the two golf CAN modes?

It sounds like you are going to have to solve the vibration issue then. If the brushes arent touching the commutator then ECU can do nothing - you could connect the throttle motor directly to the battery and it will still close.

I think it is mostly a fuel issue, everywhere in your log where there is a near stall, including in your screenshot above, the lambda is pegged at max lean for a while before the stall (it looks like 1.25Lambda or 18.4AFR is the leanest your wideband is set up to read) so it is actually even leaner in these areas than the log shows. Im not really sure why though, there are other areas where you have the same MAP, same RPM, same PW, same fuel pressure but the lambda is fine. I suspect possibly the injectors are working in a very non-linear region. Are they the Bosch CNG injectors? You could try bumping the min eff PW up to about 0.6 or 0.65 and see if that helps the injector control better.

The ecu has absolutely no influence on the starter motor at all. The starter solenoid connects directly to the ignition switch. It should crank over without a ecu even plugged in.

Two of your logs just show 1 second of idling, the other is just a free rev. Can you do a log of the actual problem occurring. Is the boost controlling ok? There are 4 counts of boost limit being hit in the saved statistics with a max MAP of 286kpa being achieved.

Please do a PC Log of it cranking and attach it here.

With the jumpers in the ADM position, please do a triggerscope while cranking and attach that and a copy of your tune here. Here's a video showing how to do the scope - this is G4+, but G4X is pretty similar: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=B7ohxR

For that trigger scope, are you sure you clicked the capture button only once the engine was turning over? With your standalone scope, was channel 1 connected to trigger 1 or trigger 2?

To properly tune knock control you really need audio knock equipment so you can listen at the same time while setting it up as well as making it knock to confirm effective. Any other method you are really just guessing. If you attach your tune I can make sure your basic settings are in the ball park but tuning the threshold really needs audio to be done well.

Widest slot mode should work when set up correctly, but you would be better to use the normal Nissan 360 mode. (BTW, widest slot for an RB would be 12 teeth) Settings below are from our GTR basemap:

I forgot to mention that as far as I remember in that firmware, it was only the status that was displayed incorrectly, the actual idle speed control should still have been working correctly. It will go to whatever is in the idle base position table. Normally it would not be recommended to close the valve but if you really want to you can do so by enabling the 3D base position table, then set it to zero based on RPM or some other variable. You will normally however feel the stumble everytime the valve opens/closes.

You are on old firmware, update to the latest firmware and I think this will be solved.

Hi All, The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update. But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now. FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension. G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx. Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share. 1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf

Can you attach the actual log file.

Yes, that would be the suggested way to do it. Getting rid of the idle valve will free up Aux 5/6/7/8. You can use one of those for the E-throttle relay and one for signal 2. Aux 3 is spare for Signal 1. Alternatively if you have a bit of time up your sleeve you can return your ECU to head office in NZ, and it can be modified with some flying leads added to make aux 9 & 10 available to directly drive the throttle without the external module.

If its a G4 then it wont have E-throttle. When you say "early Evo", is it a Evo3 plug-in?

Pin 85 is not connected to anything internally on our ECU. Yes, Pin 90 is AN Volt 2. The jumper just changes which pin Aux 2 is connected to. Evo 4-7 needs Aux 2 connected to the IC spray relay on pin 55, Vs Evo 8 has it on pin Pin 57. Dont use AN V5, it has a pull up connected for the PS switch. There are 4 ANV's on the expansion ports and AN Volt 4 maybe an option (oxy sensor).