Adamw

No they will be transmitted over CAN from the ECU, no need to wire anything. Fuel is a bit tricky, you will need a pull-up resistor. Follow the instruction in this document below, except for the calculation section where it says to "multiply the resistance by 9". I suggest you multiply by 2 instead which will give much better resolution. https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/FAQ_Sensors_Fuel_level_100_eng.pdf Follow instructions below (for an older AIM dash), except step 6, set the dropdown to "Transmit Link AIM MXS Strada Dash"

Have you tried the dealer you purchased it from? If it was just recently purchased then they would likely be able to get you a replacement for free if they talk to Link.

So how did you connect the tacho? What aux output did you connect it to? Did you configure the aux as "tacho"

What do you mean by "the start end", does it have two separate switches?

For the gear position I suspect you will be able to do it over CAN without fitting any extra sensors. I would connect the ECU to one CAN port on the dash and connect the TCU to the other CAN port (it would even be ok if they are all on the same bus - just would need to set up the ecu and dash to talk at the same speed as the tcu which is not configurable from memory).. The dash would then read the gear pos & speed direct from the TCU, then send it back to the ecu. What model PCS TCU do you have? Do you have the programming cable for it?

No you do not need the same parameters on the axes and they dont need to span the same ranges or even have the same breakpoints. From memory I think the main fuel and ignition tables cam have a max breakpoint size of 22 x 20, while many of the less critical tables will have a max size of 16 x 11. Trailing split does not generally need a high resolution table as it usually only changes a small amount (if at all) over the full operating range. I often see rotary maps with 12deg in every cell - so no point having aal 176 cells populated all with the same number in them... My general tuning philosophy is to start as simple as possible and only make it more complicated when/if it needs to be. So I will usually start with the bare minimum breakpoints that I think it will need. For the main ign table I will usually do 500RPM increments up to about 5000RPM, then 1000RPM above that. For the MAP breakpoints 20kpa around idle/cruise then 40kpa on boost. If in the process of tuning that ign table I find there is some area where the timing requirements are vastly different cell to cell then I will just add a new column/row at that point only. When you add a new row/column in the Link software it doesnt mess up the rest of your tune like it does with many other ecu's so you only need to tune the newly added row/column. Same idea with your split table - the few turbo engines I have tuned only varied from about 8deg at light loads to 12deg at high loads, so you likely will only need something like a 6x6 table in most cases. NA engines typically just have a flat 10deg all over so will only need one cell. When the engine is running you will have crosshairs on all of your tables showing where in the table the engine is operating, and you can also add "gauges" to your page showing live the commanded ign timing and split that it is pulling from those tables.

Can the dash not interpret compound messages? What dash do you have?

PT CAN is usually one Red wire, one Blue/Red. For the starter button, yes, connect the button to any DI, then an aux to a relay to control the starter solenoid.

If you go to the "legacy" page the release note links for the G4+ are working correctly (https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/pc-link-legacy-software/) Only the last 3 versions have release notes attached though, it was all done in the help file prior to that.

When you go to perform the firmware update it wont let you do it unless you click the button that says "read notes first", this will pop up the release notes in a separate screen. Otherwise they are in the help file: PCLink G4+ Users Manual > Release Notes > ECU Firmware Version Information

Link would need a complete car to test, not just the ecu. Given the low popularity of the model and the complex BEAN communication I suspect it would not be economical for Link to look at reverse engineering a later model when there is little demand.

It would be easier to answer if you give some details. What ecu do you have, what car/engine, what ignition system, what tacho and how have you wired it?

Hang on, you said injectors are paired 1&6 etc, but then you say injector 1 is working but injector 6 isnt? If injector 1 is firing then that proves the inj drive is ok, if they are both wired to the same drive then they should both be working - it could only be a wiring issue or seized injector or similar? Can you confirm if that is what you are trying to say?

I would be suspicious that your wideband is not working correctly, maybe a failed sensor. In some areas it just flat lines at a constant 1.289 and in many areas it responds leaner when the injector pulsewidth in increased and richer when the PW is decreased. The only time it looks like it is working correctly - or at least showing normal response to other variables is between about 0:30 and 1:14

Triggerscope looks ok to me. Change back to cam pulse 1x sync mode and add or subtract 360 deg from your offset. I suspect you are probably firing on exhaust stroke when you tried.

The V88 was a wire-in ecu, but the Vipec plug-in ECU was based on the same hardware. The main hardware difference is the plug-in didnt get the peak & hold inj drives. Yours is a plug-in ECU for an Evo IV-VIII

If your car is later than 2001 then it is not supported. If it is a 1998-2001 model and tuned using the modeled fuel equation then the fuel gauge should work correctly.

No, they should run at spring pressure without any boost control at all, the solenoid can only increase boost above spring pressure (by bleeding air out of the wastegate diaphragms). I have never used a factory one as have only worked on cars with significant modifications and running higher boost. If you only want to run factory boost level then changing to a different valve will unlikely give you any advantage.

The Xtreme will certainly run the engine fine but be aware parallel installs in an auto DBW car are usually fairly challenging and usually end with many compromises. I have been asked to fix other tuners attempts at it in the past. I generally try to steer people away from the idea when asked. You have to do lots of research first to confirm how the factory system works, but usually you have to leave the factory ECU in control of the DBW to keep the gear shift torque reduction working and factory ECU out of limp mode, but the problem with that is DBW ecu's usually control the idle using a combination of ignition timing and DBW. So when you move the ignition control to a different ecu it is difficult to get the two now separate idle control systems to play well together. The car will often stall when you put it in gear etc, or the idle ignition control will start fighting against the DBW idle control. So its not impossible, but you will need a very good, patient experienced tuner and potentially lots of time/money...

That would work fine just as you have drawn it, but one of the slightly modified options below would be the more common way of doing it.

That is a Vipec V88 based plugin. It has built-in knock control and a few more inputs and outputs compared to the earlier V44 based plugins. Download VTS software V4.10.2 from the Vipec website. https://www.vi-pec.com/software/vts-v4-10-2.1784

Most people would fit an aftermarket boost solenoid as the factory ones usually have only a small range of control. I suspect in your case if you only want 0.9bar it wont be far off spring pressure so you probably wont even need boost control.

Aux outputs supply a ground when on. Make sure the 12V side of the relay coil comes from a source that is only live when the ignition switch on. And I would probably ignore the comments above about using a GP aux, virtual auxes etc, the G4 has a native "IC spray" function built in that will take care of all the logic.

Can you add a better photo of the serial number (or just type it here), cant read the photo at all.

There could be a couple of possibilities going on here. Can you please do this: With the "set base timing screen" open and engine running, set the "lock timing to" box to 15deg. Then with your timing light check that the 15deg mark on the pulley lines up. If it doesnt line up then adjust the middle "offset" number until it does. Now with the set base timing screen still open, rev the engine to say 4000RPM, check that the the 15deg mark on pulley is still aligned well. If you see any the timing mark has moved more than 1 or 2 deg away from 15 mark when you rev it then there is some problem with the trigger or ignition settings. Report back if timing stays steady at 15 or moves when you rev it and I will advise next steps to diagnose.