Adamw

It almost looks like you might need 180 or -180 for your orientation correction from that log above.

Looking at one of your screenshots above it looks like you might be using an old version of PC Link? Make sure your ECU is running 5.6.5 firmware, there were big improvements made to knock control in 5.6.4 & 5.6.5. >logging>ecu log file download

I think I would ignore that comment, a typical voltmeter isnt going to be fast enough to see a 1ms voltage spike. Have you tried the 100Hz log yet?

You only needed to change the master or fuel table not both. Go back and multiply fuel table numbers by 2.22 to get them back to where they where.

No the ECU takes care of this. Assuming your injector dead times where accurate then nothing would change, but if the injector deadtimes were'nt quite correct you may need small adjustments to the fuel table at low load/idle. Note if you have added a cam sensor then you should change injection mode to sequential (you wont have the 1/2 eng cycle option), then injection can be correctly timed with valve opening events.

Correct, depending where you look, most data for the market share of desktop & tablet operating systems shows Linux sitting around 1-3% and windows around 85%. Its a massive undertaking to appeal to that 1-3%.

It will need to be non-zero. 3ms is a good number - it gives the ecu a little headroom to stretch or shrink dwell if there are trigger errors etc.

The drivers are pre-installed when you originally install PC Link. Can you open up windows device manager and see if you have a Link USB ECU com port showing and there is no yellow exclamation mark next to it.

Attach your map. What fuel are you using?

Note dwell time is irrelevant when running a CDI. You cant have too much or too little, all it needs is an edge. If you are worried that the ECU is over-heating you can log ECU temperature. The max temp it has seen is also automatically saved in the ECU statistics register. I think they shut down around 90deg C.

It is a Monsoon ECU so only has 4 inj outputs. It will be firing them in multigroup mode. Research what "absolute pressure" means. MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure. 0Kpa MAP is total vacuum. 100Kpa MAP is atmosheric pressure at sea level (0Bar boost). 200KPa MAP is 1Bar boost. On top of that, all limiters have a "control range", for the MAP limit the default range is 10KPa, so if the limit is set to 186kPa, the limiter will start to limit at 176kPa (or 0.76Bar boost). Rather than ask us what is wrong with your map, it would be better if you explain what the actual problem is that you have and supply a log showing it.

I thought the early 1UZ didnt have E-throttle? Was I wrong there?

0-5V 3 wire type. Honeywell PX3 are good quality and reasonably priced.

I would not bother with one of those resistance type sensors, they were originally designed to be pulled-up by the gauge to either 12 or 24V, so to get decent resolution with a 5V system you need a very grunty pull up and it will be using 50-100mA from your 5V supply. They also have absolute crap error tolerance. See calibration below. At 5 Bar the resistance can be anything between 154 & 214ohm or about +/-20%!

For a raspberry pi I suspect there would be a OBD2 app that would allow display only. There will never be a Linux version of PC Link. If you want to adjust anything you will need windows.

So you have confirmed that you cant fire the plugs together, but they fire sequentially, so then why does the engine not run? Of course it is different when using test mode to when running an engine. When in test mode if you have all drives in test, all outputs fire together at exactly the same time (as per the video I sent you), that never happens in a running engine. Did they state that the CDI box can actually fire all channels simultaneously? I think I mentioned to you earlier that I have heard that many CDI's cant actually do this since either the transformer or capacitor is shared between channels.

Im not sure either, I would have thought 90 or -90 but I would just unclip the ecu and tip it up to simulate braking or accel and you will soon work it out.

I think the reason they do a CAN hub is probably because most of their devices come pre-terminated "plug and play". We dont do that so much and most feedback seems to suggest the flexibility is prefered. A CAN bus doesnt need a "hub", the whole system was designed to be a main "trunk" that the devices can just splice into parallel anywhere along the line. A $200 hub is just a very expensive way to splice two wires into 4... But the Haltech hub should work with any bodies CAN bus including Link if you really want to pay that much. I've never used these yet but I've noticed recently you can also get CAN bus specific DTM connectors including "splitter hubs" and terminating caps which could be a nice way to do it if you wanted easy expandability:

That is opposite to how most would want it. You should be able to correct that with the "orientation correction" setting. I just relised why my test calculator didnt work - I wasnt using a thunder... The test calculator is actually very handy to see the effects of scaling/offsets etc. Have a play with that calculator bit at the bottom. Correct, -30G would be sent over CAN as "0". +30G would be "60000".

Both maps look almost identical. Neither look like they have been tuned on a dyno steady state as both the fuel and igntion maps are just too artificially smooth. Otherwise the ignition numbers look pretty normal. You have the MAP limit set to 186kPa so the engine is not going to run more than about 0.75bar. If you are using stock coils/ignitors then you might want to reduce dwell time to about 1.8ms.

You are right sorry, I mentioned in my original post that is was currently missing from the Atom & Monsoon but the Storm I tested it on was one of our old Blue storms which does have that option and I assumed all Storms had it. It looks like we have hidden that setting on all ECU's that dont have a serial port. We will enable that option in a future update on all ecus so you are going to have to wait a while.

Usually there is good info in the "test calculator" to show how the parameter is scaled/stored but it looks like the detail for those parameters is missing. Usually we use unsigned integers with an offset to allow for negative values, so this is probably what you are seeing. I suspect it will be something like a 3G offset, so the accel can read from -3G to +3G. I will see if I can get some more detail for you tomorrow.

There is no auto-tune option for ignition timing. With a NA engine you are unlikely going to be knock limited and even if it where you would have to try pretty hard to break it. Copy the ignition map out of one of the 350Z base maps will be a nice conservative starting point.

Pretty odd problem for sure. You have a mixture difference of 25% so that is a significant change in fuel or air mass. I dont see anything in the log that could cause that. Does it actually run completely different or does it still run ok when rich Vs normal? What injectors are they? If they are the Bosch CNG injectors then I would be suspicious of those. Have you checked fuel pressure? What about a tight valve clearance or vacuum leak or similar that causes 1 cylinder to misfire?

Yes we do! We have one as one of the donkey engines on our dyno. The Storm would be my suggestion as for the minimum ECU to go for - 3 main reasons: The Storm is our lowest cost ECU with Knock control. The Storm is our lowest cost ECU with 8 injector and 8 Ignition drives. The Storm is our lowest cost ECU that can drive the stock stepper motor idle valve. There is a comparison table on this page here to highlight the main differences between our ECU models: https://www.linkecu.com/products/ecu-comparison-chart/