Adamw

Probably too many possibilities to hazard a guess here, Try setting up ECU logging so it is recording a few common parameters at all times and you might capture it. Does the tacho drop to zero when it cuts out?

The log shows the ECU is sending 90%DC to the motor but the throttle is closed solid. I assume you can hear the motor whining? If so, this might suggest your motor +/- is reversed. Also watch out for your idle base position table - it is adding 30% to the target at present. This is not part of your problem, just wanted to remind you to change it before you try starting. 1-4 % would be more typical in this table.

The next step is to do a short PC Log which might give us some clues what the problem is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A About 10 seconds with a few pedal movements will do. Note if you have problems logging in on the forum, make sure you use your username, rather than your email. Logging in with email seems to be flaky for some users.

When using a hall sensor the switching threshold is about 1.2V, so provided the noise on trigger 2 is less than 1.2V you should be ok. Note the scope capture above shows your crank sensor is connected wrong polarity, you need to swap the wires.

I'm going to ask @Simon to comment on this one since he knows the internals better than me. It sounds like you possibly have a damaged injector drive but that doesnt explain the "back feed". Your inectors should not have power on the other side when you turn the key off so it sounds like there might still be a problem with the wiring too? Anyhow, hold off until Simon gives his advice.

I dont know sorry but will update these threads once they have found the issue.

You can try a manual calibration. Set E-throttle mode to "Off". Manually push the throttle blade closed then open up the runtimes screen and note down the closed voltages for TP sub and main. Now push the blade to fully open and note down the 2 open voltages. You can then set E-throttle mode back to "On- Setup Mode" and manually type in those voltages. Let us know what happens once that is done.

In most countries where there are emissions standards it is illegal to broadcast user modifiable data into the OBD2 compliant bus. Connecting the ECU to your OBD2 port will not make your car "pass emissions". There will be no "readiness monitors" or other such messages that the emissions guys will be looking for. Our OBD2 broadcast data is intended for tablets/smartphones/laptimers etc. Here is the basic connection diagram if you still want to connect it:

Hi Motor, yes it seems we have a bug or something unexpected going on in CL E-throttle idle, it was reported here last week: I have been able to reproduce it here and have passed all the info on to our engineering team so they can have a look at it. Hopefully we will have a fix soon but in the meantime you might have to switch to open loop mode.

It is not going to talk to the dash directly, Holley will not give out any info on the messages the dash needs. So as you have guessed, they only you could get data into the dash would be with the expander device that you link to. Note however it will be completely standalone from the ECU and it will be very limited in the data you can receive, basically only RPM, one temp, two pressures & fuel level.

Im pretty sure it will be fine as is. Im not really sure why they do the funny ramp thing but the waveform shape of the sync tooth is not particularly critical. If it turns out to be a drama, you can just grind a tooth off the 24 tooth wheel to make it 24-1 then you wont need the trigger 2 at all.

Every brand/model is different, some will work, some wont.

Something doesnt sound right there, I would have expected RPM to increase with that much, maybe your idle control isnt even working. Can you do a short PC log of a few minutes of running/idling, switching AC on/off etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

12V with engine off will be fine for static/base pressure.

Offset is typically 35-45 but trig 2 should be set to rising (our decoder actually uses both the falling and rising edges but it must be set to falling to work correctly).

Ok, I have been able to reproduce this now although not consistently, I too get something fairly random, sometimes positive, sometimes negative. I have passed my test data on to the engineering team to take a look.

Im not sure if you are asking if you can display images on the dash or if you are asking for pictures of the dash. It is just a segment type LCD so you cant display images on the dash. If you just want pictures of the dash then there is one on the link I provided above, also more info here: http://www.race-technology.com/nz/racing/products/display-products/dash2-pro and here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQUqZwfP66A Note that some features are optional like the GPS logging option is a paid license which doesnt come in the base package but you can add at any time in the future. The version we sell already has the CAN receive licence enabled. For pricing you will be best to contact a dealer in your region.

From my brief search that looks like a DC servo motor and would typically be controlled closed loop PID with position feedback. We dont really have any way to do that properly with our ECU's. You could set it up with two relays to drive all the way open or all the way closed but you wont be able to do anything in-between - at least not without adding some external module to do the closed loop.

All idle up steps are adders. So 22% + 24.6% = 46.6%. It seems crazy that you need 22% neutral step, something like 4% is what I more commonly see. If you are still using the Ford iac valve then they have big heavy spools in them so dont like any more than about 120Hz, this might be why you are seeing odd response. It may be that doubling your DC barely effects airflow until you get to a certain point where all of a sudden the valve decides to open a big wack. Can you try lowering your Aux 1 frequency to 120Hz to see if it improves behaviour? You are right about the power steering and neutral steps if regularly activated will just keep adding on top of each other so we really do need some other settings that can take care of that but usually the CL looks after it well enough.

The message "cannot start the downloader" gives me the feeling it's more a software issue. Have you got another PC you can try? Also we now have a Tech support guy in the UK if you wanted to send the ECU to him to take a look?

Hmm thats weird, at least all the V7-9 JDM and native cars we get here in NZ that I have seen have AVCS on the intake. Does your ECU connector match our V7-9ECU: https://www.linkecu.com/products/plugin-ecus/subaru/

Did the original engine not have AVCS? I thought all GD/GG wrx's did from about 2000? (sorry I dont know the Subarus well). What ecu do you have presently - the OEM one?

Hmm, this is a weird one I havent seen before, my first thought is have you got another laptop you can try? Before you get that error above does the ECU logfile manager window pop up and show data is present etc? Have you tried deleting the log that is in there?

Hi Hans, I have had some time to test your file on the bench. Strangely when I try to reproduce the same conditions shown in your log I do not get any ISC CL trim added. I also donot see any reason for it in your log/settings. Does this occur regularly for you? Is it always a similar value or is it random as you mention above? I will get engineering to take a look once I have a bit more to go on.

Only our Fury or Thunder ECU's have builtin wideband controllers so a sensor can be wired directly. Any other ECU's will need an external controller either wired to an analog input or a CAN input. Neither way I would expect any significant "electronic lag".