Adamw

I would expect you should be able to get reasonable idle control with a set up like this. Most likely just a tune issue. Can you log a cold start and post that and your map here so we can take a look. This video is for G4+ but the logging setup for the V series is very similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Hi Peter, Can you load the attached map into your ECU. I have set this up to send a continuous 3000RPM and 300KPa MAP signal to the dash. You will not need the engine running - just ignition on. Only these two channels will be live, nothing else will show. Please let me know if your Dash reads RPM & MAP continuously with the ecu running this file (engine not running). If that seems to work then next I want you to start the engine and check we still get continuous RPM/MAP (they will be fixed at 3000/300). That will help us eliminate some of the possibilities. Racepak-dash Test.pclr

Hi Peter, I dont see anything wrong in your dash config. Im sorry I cant put many logical reasons to your symptoms, my feeling is leaning towards the Vnet module being faulty or programmed incorrectly (I know you already said its been serviced but I dont know what that involves of if it is tested in any way). Tomorrow when I have a bit more time I will give you a screenshot of a new can set up we can try with a "fake" RPM signal only transmitted to see if we can get any other clues.

Blaine's Dash was a Haltech branded item that doesn't use a Vnet adapter. His comment wouldn't apply to you since your dash isn't a Haltech branded version and you are using a Vnet adapter.

OK, now we are getting somewhere. That is not a CAN port. That is USB for the PC connection only. The CAN port is inside (2 of them) and you will need another CANPCB cable to access it. http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANPCB_2

Ok, CAN settings in your map look ok and when I load it into an ECU here Im getting correct looking data broadcast out. So Im running out of ideas, but your errors suggest there is no acknowledge coming from the dash. I assume you are using a Link CANPCB cable(not a 3rd party item) for connecting to the CAN socket and it is plugged into the 5pin socket labelled CAN1/RS232? Can you try swapping the CAN H & CAN L over (no harm can be done).

Hi Peter, All the settings in your map appear to be ok, I dont have too many other ideas. If you want to attach your dash config file I will take a quick look over that too. This dash/vnet module was quite popular so it has been proven to work successfully many times previously. If I dont see anything wrong in your dash config would you be prepared to send your dash and Vnet cable down to us in New Zealand (or even to our UK office for forwarding to me)?

Can you attach your map. Also, I believe the MXL2 has 2 CAN ports, one on the big connector and one on the small connector. You are connected to the big one right?

I agree, even though it is unlikely going to change the tune noticeably if you did re-zero the TPS, you are best just to leave it alone so that it reads 2% or whatever at idle, this will keep the fuel map most relevant.

Pin 4 should have full battery voltage. Make sure the source you are taking this from has decent sized wire and is capable of supplying 8Amps. The heater voltage (your quoted 7.5V figure) is controlled by the ECU via PWM to pin 3. I havent seen that error before so it is going to be a process of elimination. ClintBHP's suggestions are a good start. Also be aware there are many fake sensors on the market now so if yours was from amazon/ebay/aliexpress etc I would be suspicious.

what are the part numbers of your gauges?

I have moved your post to its own topic and into the correct forum. For your idle problem, it sounds like the base position table isnt set up right. Has it been tuned? Can you do a PC Log and post that and a copy of your map here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Yes, the sub-board out of a G1 "non-plus" is the same.

can you attach your map, I will take a look. What is the part number of your Vnet module?

I would think that should work ok, I would add two injectors above the blower in a relatively central location and connect them to drives that are firing 360 degrees apart, that will give you the best chance of uniform mixture from cycle to cycle.

Correct, your Exp #1 socket has two spare temp inputs and 2 analog inputs. 1 pin of your oil temp sensor connects to sensor ground, the other pin to either AN Temp 3 or 4.

True, I have only used these SSR's for fuel pump control and you can assign FP speed to an ign aux. For fans, water pump , GP PWM the live supply side of the SSR will have to come from a switched 12V source.

I/O available on the plug in expansion ports varies between models. What ecu do you have?

You will not need screened for most sensors (knock sensor being the exception). I suggest 0.5mm or 20awg as it fits most common automotive terminals well.

Is this a monsoon? If so upgrade to the latest firmware as this bug was fixed sometime ago.

They work fine wired in the normal manner if you connect to an ignition aux rather than a normal aux.

There is injector data already formatted to drop straight into G4+ on ID’s website, look in the plug and play section. Edit; here:http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/4000074340-link-engine-management

This is not a model I know well but as a general rule in a reasonably modern car like this you will have issues integrating with an auto trans. It will likely need some sort of torque reduction for gear shifts and the ECU possibly also looks after converter lock up etc. You would probably be better looking at reflash solutions like Ktuner etc.

Correct. The Signal wire goes to any analog input. I will post a pic below of how the set up looks in PC Link. For the temp sensors, one pin to ground (green), the other to either of the AN Temp 1/2 pins. Set up looks like below. (both sensors use the Std Bosch NTC calibration)

If nobody else comes up with anything useful after a day or 2 then I think I know this model well enough to knock up a basic starting point. Basically, I would start with our S13 or S14 map, change the ignition set up to suit the distributor and change the fuel map to TP to suit the ITB's. @Ducie54 may also be some help.