Adamw

Most Mazda cam sensor signals invert somewhere around idle speed and only one edge will remain accurate when this happens. Given your cam position is showing non-zero after calibration it could be that the calibration was performed at idle when the signal was inverted. Redo the cal at about 2000RPM, and then keep an eye on Inlet Bank 1 Sys status and Inlet bank 1 position runtimes over a range of RPM's, and immediately after a restart etc. If it reports faults or the position doesnt return to zero reliably at idle then that would suggest the wrong edge is being used so try swapping trigger 2 active edge and then redo the cal.

Your BAP is 96kPa, so with the engine off your MAP should read about the same. Yours is currently reading 8kPa so something is wrong with the MAP sensor or its wiring. The analog input is showing 0.06V so it seems something must be connected, but it is wired wrong or something.

Wire it as per our plug-in pinout. The Link ECU requires reluctor sensors to have a falling zero crossing, which is what 99.9% of reluctor sensors generate when wired with the manufacturer's intended polarity. For whatever reason Honda decided to do the opposite and work with an inverted signal compared to everyone else.

Yes, V4 is PC tunable. It requires a "SerialLink" or "ComLink" device between ECU and PC however.

This is a G1 LEMV4. The main firmware and trigger board are for a twin distributor 1UZ-FE.

Fuel pressure sensor is connected to an aux? The AC pressure switch is usually fitted between the AC request switch and the ecu, so idle up isn't activated if pressure is lost and you get proper clutch delay etc when cycled on the high pressure side. Some other stuff could be simplified such as clutch switch could just be connected to ground.

I would usually just adjust accel fuel live while doing some blips or load changes while driving and watching what accel fuel and lambda does in a time plot etc. The settings vary a lot from engine to engine as the injector spray pattern and other injector related variables have a big influence so there isn't really a typical setup that will work for all/most. I would generally start with something like the attached settings. Accel suggestion.pclr

I reckon the bulk of your issue is probably accel fuel related. It looks like you have the deadband too high so you get no accel fuel for most throttle movements, then when you do occasionally break through that deadband you have a large clamp or cold correction so you get a crap ton dumped in.

My info might be a bit out of date, that comment about the metal covered sensor was from a conversation with one of our old engineers who owned one. From a quick bit of research myself it looks like possibly the original unreliable plastic one was 23731-AL60C. That was superseded by 23731-AL60D which was the metal-covered one (Possibly Hitatchi# U11N03-REVS). However, it looks like that has also now been superseded by 23731-AL60E which is back to a plastic body. I dont know about the reliability of this revision. But, since you do have an aftermarket flywheel, definitely keep the possibility of an airgap issue in the back of your mind. I dont think you will find the correct air gap published anywhere, if you know someone with a stock one you could remove the sensor and measure the depth from the mounting face to the wheel teeth and compare to yours.

Increase the idle ignition RPM lockout to about 1700RPM and in idle control settings, reduce the anti-stall gain to 1.0. Those should hopefully settle down the oscillation.

You could use Aux 6 & 7 at the ecu header or already in the engine bay in the O2 sensor plugs, or if it is the non up-rev model with only intake VVT then you will also have Aux 3 & 5 spare at the ecu header.

I tried to have a look a couple of days ago but the map is password protected. Can you resave it with the password removed. Do you have a log from when it wasn't working? The "empty tables" is generally just a graphics panel/layout thing causing them to not be displayed properly in PC link.

I have done a quick test and the keypad counts are received correctly with the 3 separate messages/ID's as you have proposed.

It sounds like you only have a Vipec sticker. The Vipec Artic cat plug-in ecu will look something like this:

Assuming you still have dumb coils with the OEM wiring and ignitor still in place they should be ok as is. When you say your coils are not firing, is this when using ignition test mode or when cranking?

I believe the original intent of the "RX Keypad Counts" was for all 16 counts to be received in a single compound/multiplex message. It looks like the Hardwire PDM can receive compound messages but cant send in compound format so its not directly compatible with the intent. It may still work with 3 single frame messages as you propose however, as long as each receive node doesnt overwrite the missing frames with zeros or automatically set them to fault status or similar. I will have to test on the bench to confirm.

Yeah I dont think that would be an issue. All devices are on the same bus so the programming tool should still be able to access the BCM without the ecu present. Only the BCM needs to be paired to the keyfob.

The throttle error just appears to be PID tuning, you have a strong oscillation, I suspect too much derivative gain. I have changed to some more typical starting values in the attached map. I have also changed some of the idle settings as the throttle was being held open 40% when cranking. There are no trigger issues in your log or scope, that all looks fine and happy. Most likely just need to confirm the base timing now, try adding or subtracting 360 from the offset if a timing light shows the correct timing but there are still no signs of life. Idle and throttle PID changes.pclr

Yeah I think it will need to be powered up whenever the ECU is live. Part of the CAN standards is an error checking system, if no device acknowledges the messages the ecu is sending it must report a transmit error, once it reaches 255 transmit errors then it goes to "bus off" state. The bus wont be reset until it is power cycled or you open the CAN screen and hit apply again.

Assuming you have the pull-ups set to ON in the trigger 1/2 settings, then the only other cause of no signal would be a wiring issue.

The data in that log doesnt match the settings in the map provided. Can you attach a copy of the map that was running the engine when the log was recorded, or if that is the current map then do a new log with that map. It is no use making suggestions based on data that was made with different settings.

The complete pinout is in the back of the manual here: http://linkecu.com/documentation/JZX100X.pdf Pins labelled NC have nothing connected. By the looks the JZX100 ecu doesnt have Ign 7 available so you would have to run wasted spark, otherwise it looks like it would have enough IO to run it well.

The voltage on your APS sub only snaps between 0.25 & 4.72V, the APS main sits at 4.72V all the time. The XPD-2832-812-214-911-00-EFI isn't suitable as a pedal sensor, this is a TPS sensor with the two outputs designed to cover two different mechanical ranges (for cable driven throttles that may move clockwise or anticlockwise). So I think currently you may have the sensor positioned where it is not working over the correct mechanical range for either sensor. https://www.efihardware.com/download/141/H-TPS-MS-V_Throttle_Position_Sensor

A couple of common causes of trigger issues on the 350Z: if it has an aftermarket flywheel, there are quite a few that have the OD of the trigger wheel machined undersize and give problems at high RPM. You can sometimes fix by cutting some material off the sensor flange to reduce the airgap. Iron filings from ring gear/starter wear build up on the end of the sensor, if bad enough can cause errors. The early "all plastic" crank sensor was unreliable, it was later revised. The later sensor can be identified with a metal cap over the end. If you have an early one and the points 1 & 2 above dont apply then it is probably worth replacing.

Does your car have the 64pin or 76pin ECU?