Adamw

Sorry we dont have a ECU capable of this yet and no plans in the near future.  At present the Force ECU wouldnt even be able to run the GDI only part of this engine as we havent yet had one in house to reverse engineer.  

A quick copy/paste hack sorry...  Showing OBDII socket connection to a plugin ECU using CANPCB & CANF.

I agree with Blaine here, you log doesnt really exhibit any problems - it looks like it is idling quite nice.  I too think it is potentially the very short injector pulsewidth at idle that gives odd behaviour under some conditions and maybe giving it a slightly richer idle might help, maybe try less advance also as it has ~20deg at idle.
Also your CLL is potentially being randomly disabled due to the "MAP delta" lockout combined with the unstable MAP.  I would try increasing this from 0 up to about 3KPa.

I always tune RB26's with TPS as the main fuel load table. I even use it as the main load on the ignition table with a 4d map for boost correction. I find it makes them much snappier. You are getting fairly low in the injector pulsewidth at idle. It is possible that the dynamics of your particular injectors are not consistent enough at that low of a pulsewidth. You could try to change the 1000 rpm cell at 5.8 psi in your Target AF table to 13.8 or so. If its a low pulsewidth issue this may stabilize it a bit. It seems to be maintaining idle fairly well in the log.
Blaine Carmena
Carmena Performance

I suspect the issue might be using MGP as the load axis on the main fuel table.  The RB26 usually has a weak and sometimes unstable vacuum at idle so most tuners use TP as the main load axis.  They then normally use the Open loop lambda target table to enrich under boost conditions and often a 4D table is not even required.  Sometimes just a few cells in high boost areas requires 4D correction.
If you can post a log of the car idling we can take a look and see if there is any opportunity to improve what you have without a complete re-map.    

A quick copy/paste hack sorry...  Showing OBDII socket connection to a plugin ECU using CANPCB & CANF.

Just open any .pclr file in pclink, go to layout and start from there.

Note the drivers for Aux 17-20 need to powered from pin D1 to function correctly (even for doing a normal low side drive), I suspect this is your problem if you havent got this pin connected to +14V.  


 
 

yes.
 

You are free to use any trigger mode you like with the plugin ecu.  36-1 or the RX8 options would both be good choices.  The downside of changing to a hall sensor is you will have to run a new power wire to it.

Ok I see some of your problem is the launch ignition trim activation is set too close to the launch RPM so it is continuously bouncing on & off.  Try setting ignition trim activation to 6000RPM.  I think with more consistent retard you should see higher launch boost.
Also if your engine has solid lifters then I think you would get a better result by using ignition cut instead of fuel cut.  If you have hydraulic lifters it would pay to stick with fuel cut.

 

No I think he is probably mistaken here.  The ECU should have a realistic ethanol content value stored in its memory to use for start up.
Your symptoms sound more like the idle valve set up or pre-crank and post start fuel tuning related.
Also keep in mind most engines are a more difficult to cold start on Ethanol based fuels as they are less volatile.  This effect gets more worse as temperatures drop so even when all settings are optimised/tuned correctly you will likely never see as good start up behavior as petrol.

It will work with the OEM setup, nothing will need to be changed.
 

I still havent had time to do this justice but I did take a look at a few logs where BAP varied greatly through the run and measured lambda stays near target over large elevation changes.  So for now although I cant argue that there isnt possibly a better option out there for fuel table load axis I can say the present system seems to do the job well even in far more extreme environmental variations (aircraft) than our typical users will ever see.
Nice workaround though Cam - you will just need to find a very big hill...

Your ECU will do the E-throttle.  For the base map the 1UZ will be the best we can offer.  I think from memory however the trigger pattern is different on the 3UZ but I cant find any info on it right now.  It is a holiday in NZ today so @Simon might confirm tomorrow if he knows.

Unfortunately I cant see enough detail in the photo.  Can you please do the trigger scope again then "save as log".  attach the .llg file here.

Boost sol and Tacho are fine to use on Ign 5-8.
The aux output allocation chart in the help file is already on the fixit list but it is not high priority at the moment.

Perhaps the definition of diameter will help?:

You will need a serial link and assuming your laptop doesn't have a genuine old school 9pin serial port you will also need a USB to serial adapter (computer store).
you will need pclink v2.5 available right down the bottom of the downloads page: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

DI1 should probably be Inlet LH, you have DI1 and 2 both set to Inlet RH

To connect a pc to it you will need a "Serial Link": http://dealers.linkecu.com/SER  they are still available new and cost about $120 in NZ.
Note however these old G1's didnt have configurable trigger inputs - to allow them to work on different engines they needed a different "sub board" fitted.  It was quite common to change these over time, hence Simon's comment above "Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link".  So to confirm this you should open up the case and give us the numbers off the sub board or post a photo etc.  The sub board is the smaller PCB that sits above the main board, about 40mm square I guess.
So my suggestion is dont buy a serial link yet, confirm the sub-board is correct for your engine first.

I dont know if there are some variations of these but I found this on the web:

It suggests the crank has 4 teeth with one of those being a long tooth.  Can you confirm yours is like this?  I think we will probably find one of the OEM trigger modes will match but I will have to ask the engineers tomorrow if it looks familiar. 
A long tooth with a reluctor sensor is often not a good choice with most aftermarket ECU's either since they normally use the "zero crossing" point which will be quite variable in this case. OEM's can get around this by trigger off different features in the wave form.  One option would be to grind one edge of the long tooth down so that it is the same length as the others.

The "minimum effective pulse width" setting becomes important when you have reasonably large injectors and dont have proper short pulse width adder data.  You can use this setting to stop the ecu from commanding a pulse width that is below the injectors linear or predictable response area.  So for instance if you know your injector flow rate is not linear "falls of the cliff" below 1.3ms pulse width then you set the "minimum effective pulse width" to 1.3ms and that will prevent the ECU from ever commanding less than 1.3ms even if the calculated fuel flow requires less than that.
Of course if you have short pulse width adder data then you are better to have a much lower setting in "minimum effective pulswidth" to allow that table to do it's job.  Having said that it is not common that you see engines running sequential that need pulswidths less than about 0.8ms at idle so your short pulse width adder table often will not need to go much below that point.

Hi John,
I'm sorry we are a bit under the pump at the moment and difficult to reach at some times of the day.  However we do normally return calls quickly if missed.  For some reason we have lost your voice mail.
I believe Dave has been in touch with you today and informed you that it appears the main problem is trigger 1 is inverted compared to normal and has suggested you try swapping to rising edge.  The offset may be wrong too since its hard to tell if trig 2 is also upside down in this case. 

Use windows explorer, right click on the layout file and set attribute to "Read only"  PC Link then cant save the modifications and it will revert back to the unmolested state every time you close/reopen PC Link.