Adamw

As far as I can see, the G4+ is capable of doing this with a user defined stream.
I think the existing "load (abs)" parameter would be almost directly proportional to torque output so you could probably use this to create the torque message.  I think you could then just use the CAN multiplier/divider/offset to convert the load parameter into the correct range of "torque numbers" that the gearbox expects to receive.  I have a hunch however it might not actually want just predicted "torque output" - I vaguely remember seeing parameters more like "driver requested torque" associated with the few gear shift controls I have seen. - But I reckon even that should be possible to simulate with the existing tools.  
So the biggest challenge for the OP will be finding all the OEM CAN ID's and message structure etc and then finding someone who understands enough of it to translate it into the G4+ template and that will likely incur significant time and cost. 

If you are talking about the video gauge adapter then yes, it works with the G4.  It looks like it uses the "generic dash" CAN stream which is common between the G4 & G4+.  You will need the link CANPCB cable to access the CAN connector on your PnP.
It's also been posted on facebook so it must be true...

John,
The link does have the capability to set "custom TDC's".  I have never used this function so I dont know for sure if it will like us commanding 2 cylinders to fire at the same time, but screenshot below is how I think it should be set up.  Scott might be nice enough to run that setup on his sim to confirm it behaves as expected, otherwise you can just try it and see.  Set engine as 2 stroke, 2cyl, injection mode to sequential, ignition mode to direct spark, rest of config as below;

 
If the above method doesnt work there are a couple of other ways you could do it.  One is setting it up as a single cylinder as you have suggested above and driving both coils and both injectors from the Cyl #1 drivers.  Another way you could do it is set it up as a 4cyl, 2 strokke, coil & injector for cyl #1 goes to ECU #1 drivers,  coil & injector for cylinder #2 goes to ECU #4 drivers.  Drivers 2&3 dont get connected.

The G4+ atom doesnt have a builtin MAP sensor.  It seems you might be looking at a manual for the old G4 model which did.

Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss.  These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge.  The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time.  So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...

I think I mentioned in one of your other posts a while ago that you need to increase the "volt tolerance" setting under gear detection until you get a crisp step between gears.  Yours is at 0.1v now, try bumping it up 0.1v at a time until you get the best result.  The few cars I have done have normally been around 0.3v from memory.
You can test this "driving" in the garage with the wheels jacked up.

A picture will probably explain better:

This picture is not scaled well to what I normally see in real life but it still shows you the idea.  The green arrow is pointing to roughly where I would normally initiate the gear cut based on system using gear lever force.  The red arrow shows where I would have to initiate the cut if we where using barrel position.  You will notice the gear pos volts is a "flat line" in the preload area so we cant get the cut to trigger in the ideal location.
As for your "shift times" question, unfortunately there is probably not a typical answer - you will see huge differences between cars, vehicle weight, gearbox type, etc.  All I can say is I only have one example of similar cars I have played with using the two methods, if I were to take a guess based on feeling and incomplete data I would say the total shift time is about 25% longer on the car that uses barrel positon.

Hi Mapper,
I have some experience with both methods.  Strain gauge based cut initiation gives the absolute best result but obviously comes with a price tag.  Barrel position cut initiation actually still works pretty reasonable but you need a longer, more noticeable cut event and the actual shift is slower.  I guess this more prominent shift cut event may also have traction consequences to consider in some disciplines.
The difference is with a strain gauge your cut doesn't initiate until a preset shift force is reached - this preloading removes all mechanical backlash from the gear linkage/barrel/shift forks etc so the gears are basically ready to "pounce" as soon as the torque reduction is activated.  With a barrel position based system you initiate the cut basically as soon as movement of the barrel is detected so you are already cutting power when you still have all the backlash to "use up" and the gears havent even thought about starting to move yet...

Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss.  These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge.  The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time.  So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...

Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss.  These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge.  The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time.  So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...

Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss.  These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge.  The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time.  So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...

You are on a very old firmware version, 4.7.*  According to the help file, the Wideband1 parameter was not logged prior to version 4.9.9.
Update to the latest version and you will be good.

I havent thought this logic through in great detail, but this screen shot should give you the basic idea.
In this example, Aux 8 will be on when condition 1 or 2 is true.  Condition 1 would be the running engine conditions - lets say RPM is >10RPM .  Condition 2 will be your shut down timer - When RPM falls below 10, Timer 1 is "activated" by virtual Aux 1 which will then start counting up (to 40sec) in the background, When Aux 8 condition 2 sees the timer count hit 30 seconds it shuts off oil pump.  Clear as mud?  Hopefully its easier than it sounds on screen...
I would try it like this and see if it behaves as expected - the part Im not sure about is the timer might start timing as soon as you turn ignition on (before you start engine), if it does you might need to add another condition to prevent that.
how to screenshot on windows

Aux 5 is the output that controls your CE light.  In your .pclr the Aux 5 is set up as a "GP Output" that switches on any time the engine RPM is above 5700RPM.  So basically it is set up as a "shift light".
If you want to restore the check engine/fault code function to this light just change the Aux 5 output function to "CE Light".
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I havent studied your log in great detail but it looks like your main issue is the post start enrichment table is filled with -100% so that is taking all your fuel out after cranking enrichment ends.  Set post start enrichment to off for now.
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I havent studied your log in great detail but it looks like your main issue is the post start enrichment table is filled with -100% so that is taking all your fuel out after cranking enrichment ends.  Set post start enrichment to off for now.
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I will add a little more info here since I have quite a bit of experience in this strategy.
I agree with ECU settings as per Scott's suggestions, but I would say nearly always it would be worth while to have a "MAP sensor" connected also.  In this case however you don't connect the MAP sensor to manifold, you connect it to the airbox (your FPR reference should also be tee'd to this same measurement point).  The ecu and FPR will then keep fuelling more consistent when the airbox is subjected to aerodynamic effects.  If airbox and general intake design is good I often see 4-10Kpa positive pressure (ie you will need 4-10% more fuel) on high speed sections so it can be a significant effect.

I will add a little more info here since I have quite a bit of experience in this strategy.
I agree with ECU settings as per Scott's suggestions, but I would say nearly always it would be worth while to have a "MAP sensor" connected also.  In this case however you don't connect the MAP sensor to manifold, you connect it to the airbox (your FPR reference should also be tee'd to this same measurement point).  The ecu and FPR will then keep fuelling more consistent when the airbox is subjected to aerodynamic effects.  If airbox and general intake design is good I often see 4-10Kpa positive pressure (ie you will need 4-10% more fuel) on high speed sections so it can be a significant effect.

Can you attach your .pclr also?

Yes it is a reference to TDC, but it doesn't need to occur at TDC. 
You set your trigger offset in the software (calibrate trigger menu).  This is the angular distance the crank must rotate from the first tooth after the gap to TDC.  However you don't need to measure anything, just take a guess then crank it with a timing light on and adjust until the marks line up.  More info in the help file and it will make more sense when you actually do it.
I think you will find the vast majority of OEM triggers that use missing tooth wheels, the gap is never at TDC.  Ford's favourite for instance is usually 90ATDC. There are many reasons, one I already mentioned is the crank acceleration near TDC, another is if your missing tooth is in an area where your ignition event must occur (say 0-45°BTDC) there is the possibility that it would be less accurately positioned since there is no tooth to reference.  

I just noticed you have some really odd idle ignition control table.  50deg retard all over?  So turn off idle ignition control for now.  After that, start engine and adjust your master fuel up or down (pg up & pg down keys is easiest) until your AFR is in the ball park.

Tony,
An engine like this will need significant valve timing overlap so a MAP based load will not work well even with a single throttle body.  NA race engines is mostly all I do (normally ITB though) so I know this application well.  I normally still have a MAP sensor connected but only plumbed to the airbox to allow for aero effects at highspeed.  I would normally have the  FPR reference tee'd to the same location.  Load axis for both fuel & ign maps should be TPS.  You say "I only care about full throttle", but remember the engine must still accelerate out of low speed corners and must drive in pits and idle at dummy grid etc.
Another observation; your MAP on the graph above shows a significant trend downwards with increasing RPM.  To me that suggests your intake is very restrictive and is already loosing you power at just 6000RPM.  You will need to rethink that if you intend to make power at 10000...

The setting you are looking for is found under Engine Protection>MAP Limit Table 1.  It will most likely look something like below. Try increasing the MAP values that I have highlighted by about 10%.

Further to Jonny's comment, you can easily verify your wiring using the injector test function.  With ECU connected to laptop and ignition turned on, fuel pump turned off, Go to Fuel>Fuel Setup>Injector test. Set it to Inj 1 (2ms 10Hz), you should hear No 1 injector clicking.

I have never personally done it with a vipec but you can upgrade a G4 tune file to a G4+ so I assume the same will work for i88.
The secret is you need to be connected to a live/powered up ECU, before the software will allow you to open an old format map.
So, with Laptop connected to ECU & ignition/power on, open new G4+ software.  Then go to file>open and browse for your old V88 tune file, it should open up and convert to i88 file, you can then save it with a new name.