Adamw

With engine idling:
Open "set base timing" screen. Set top "lock ign timing to" box to 15deg. With timing light on coil #1 confirm if 15 deg mark on pulley/front cover lines up.  If it does go to step 5, if not go to step 4. If 15deg mark doesnt line up, then adjust it with the middle offset box.  A larger number advances the mark.  You need to hit enter after changing that offset number.   Now the 15deg mark lines up at idle, bring the engine up to say 5000RPM to confirm the 15deg mark stays on target.  If there is some drift then adjust this out using the bottom delay box.  Click done and perform a store.   Make sure you connect the timing light to an old plug lead between the coil and plug, many timing lights dont give accurate timing if you use the timing loop at the back of the engine.

How you number the banks is really up to you - whatever is easiest for you to remember I guess.  Nissan use the convention right side is bank 1 and left side is bank 2.  And the VVT in our 350Z basemap is set up so that Bank 1 is the right side and Bank 2 being the left so it will probably be best to stick with that convention.
In the closed loop lambda settings you can assign which lambda input is used for which bank - I suggest for clarity use Lambda 1 for bank 1 and Lambda 2 for bank 2.  
So if you decide to stick with Nissan's convention, you would assign the Lambda sensor on the right exhaust to "Lambda 1" and assign the left lambda input as Lambda 2.  Then set your CLL sources and injectors like below:

 
 
 
 

RPM lockout needs to be around 4-500 otherwise it will close the throttle when coasting and stall or undershoot when you clutch in.  
Try the map below with the base position closer it will hopefully stop the rev hang.  
For the undershoot after a blip you need to play with the dashpot offset/hold/decay.  I have given it a little more in the attached map.  
Try this 2.pclx

E-throttle target should be zero for idle in G4X.  Note 0% will never actually be commanded since the idle base position value is added to the target (so the least the throttle will ever be closed is 1.8% using this map).  

Any function that uses a GP table has a max cell count of 16 x 11.

That would be fine

Either is fine.  I typically use the 8V if you have one as it is normally spare and saves splicing into 12V.  The sensors work reliably from 5-24V.  

yep

What I often do is input the values you have, then change the deadtime table to graphic view (K key)  then adjust the in between values using arrow keys until you have a visually nice curve through the known points.

I would try increasing master fuel.  Usually if they run for a short time it means too little fuel - they will stop as soon as the post start enrichment is faded out.  

No, just a little bit less intuitive when you look at logs etc.  
 
Yeah I would say it is most likely a ground issue.  But whether it is the main engine grounds or ecu grounds is hard t know.  In most of the 90's JDM cars the sensor ground and power grounds arent seperated.  So if you have some higher than normal resistance on the power ground you get some current taking the easier path by flowing through sensor ground.  

For the trim position to jump from 9 to 10 the voltage on the analog input would have had to go below 1.35V.  

Yes, the ECU hold power aux output will be set to active state = low.  This means it grounds pin 63&66 when it wants to keep the ecu powered up after ign is switched off.. 

Linear cal is what you want.  Yes ground to the head is a good option.  

Yeah the trig1/2 settings look correct.  You dont need to wory about the position of the CAS, that can be anywhere and you just set the timing using the trigger offset.
However after just looking at our 300Z base map I noticed the trigger offset is set to zero, this isnt an engine im very familiar with, but I think zero is unlikely correct.  Most other 6 cyl nissans offset is around -85deg so I would probably set it there initially and see if that is close enough to get it started.

Yes, the bus should be terminated at both ends.  The ECU has one built in so that takes care of one end, the AEM gauges dont so you want to add one at the far end of the bus.  
There are many ways to terminate, below is how I do it for a road car, not shown in this pic but after assembly I fill the back with RTV instead of the seal to support the resistor. 

Yes, the bus should be terminated at both ends.  The ECU has one built in so that takes care of one end, the AEM gauges dont so you want to add one at the far end of the bus.  
There are many ways to terminate, below is how I do it for a road car, not shown in this pic but after assembly I fill the back with RTV instead of the seal to support the resistor. 

Any Link dealer should be able to get an expansion loom.  https://dealers.linkecu.com/XSL_2

The G4+ has 10bit ADC's on all analog inputs.  So approx 0.005V resolution.

The old two wire sensors are not good options.  They were orignally designed in 1970 by VDO for use with their consumer level gauges, gauges in those days where very low resolution and were really just an indication what was going on.  
The problem with them is they are very low resistance so they need a strong pull-up which consumes a lot of your available 5V output current, they are not linear, and their resistance curve varies significantly with the sensor temperature.
Have a look at Honeywell MIP series, decent sensors for about 50-60USD depending where you are.

It was originally planned for this week but we found a backwards compatibility issue with old firmware so they are working on fixing that.  Might still be a couple of weeks.  

I wouldnt worry about the idle valve postion, that will have no effect.  
For the stumble I suspect possibly too much fuel.  When you stab the trhottle the active cell moves from the green cell in the picture below to the red cell so this adds quite a bit more fuel.  Usually I find most engines the low RPM columns are similar numbers all the way from low MAP to high MAP.  So when you consider MAP has been increased by 2.5X, fuel table number has increased by 1.8X, accel fuel is multplying by 1.35X, you have a total of 600% more fuel going in when you stab the throttle.   
Have you tuned the red area of the fuel table steady state?  

 
 

Both the oil press and MAP sensor inputs show zero volts.  This means those inputs are in fault state and using the error value (100kpa for MAP).  Did the oil pressure used to work?  I would start by confirming you have 5V and ground at those sensors before replacing them.  It would be unlikely for two sensors to fail at the same time.