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Hello everyone, first time posting but I have been looking through for a while, i just got my car tuned and everything was fine but towards the end the car started to randomly drop the rpm reading to 0, ive noticed it does it when under a load but not when free reving, also once the car is warmed up and running for a while ill attach a log here, if you need the tune i can attach it as well. info on the car what is done to it relating to the trigger, it has a stock Nissan CAS with an AEM trigger wheel 24-1 and a link G4X plug in ecu trigger offset is set to 352 in case that matters, prior the car was running nistune with stock CAS and stock trigger wheel and did not have this issue, ive tried swapping CAS and same thing, i dont have a log of the trigger scope but my tuner was looking at it when he was tunin and it completly looses signal for a second and comes back he thought it might possibly be a strecthing belt but i dont think i agree, can it possibly be heat soaking and causing it to cut out? or do i have a setting messed up. If i need to switch to a diffrent trigger kit i will (PRP or NZwiring) but want to make sure im dotting all my I's and crossing all my T's, thank you in advance. trigger_loss 2024-02-22 2;48;38 pm.llgx

Hi Everyone! I don’t know if posting an item for sale is against the rules and if so, feel free to report this. I have a complete PRP Street Series camshaft trigger kit for RB series engines I’m selling for a bargain price of $250 plus shipping. It’s basically new, my tuner wasn’t familiar with it and preferred I get a different. Reach out if interested!

Hello, Were in the middle of starting this FD. Notice that the Trigger is not giving us a proper signal. (see files attached) 1) Signals are on and off consistently 2) 0.2 V is being offset on the trigger. Currently running G4X S6 plug and play. The harness isn't OEM. The Trigger wiring is in a 4 shielded conductor, Shielding being grounded to Signal Ground. At first our concern maybe grounding the shielded to sensor ground. Causing too much noise so we turned off injectors and ignition trigger and tried again with no change. The power ground from the ECU pin 12, 13 and 26 are wired to 16AWG and joined into a single 16AWG then grounded to the block. (The battery and others are also grounded at the same location) (Wires are tefzel) Will try to make a jumper harness from the trigger sensor directly to the ECU and grounding the shielding wire to power ground. This will rule out if both triggers being in the same conductor that may have an EFI affect on each other and or the shielded being grounded to signal ground is making too much noise. One other thing I would like to try and also make a jumper ground that will ground ECU pin 12, 13, and 26 to the chassis and another at the top of the intake manifold. Would like to know what others have tried to rule out this issue. Thanks PC Datalog - 2023-08-16 9_24_40 pm Ken, Trigger Signal Voltage Issue.llgx TriggerScopeLog, Ken Trigger Voltage Issue.llgx

Hi Guys, newbie here, as the titles says, i am getting trigger errors and hoping someone here can take a quick look at my scope and steer me in the right direction. Thanks Evo - 1 4G63T 4000rpm.llgx ECU Log 2022-09-10 3;01;45 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog.llgx

I am new to the forums here and seeking help with starting the engine. I have read and searched for trigger issues and starting problems and unable to find solution to my setup. The car has not run in about 15 months and in that time I have done several upgrades, mainly: Link G4 NGTR ECU Greddy CAM Gears (set at 0 degree adjustment) PRP Crank and Cam Trigger Kit (Crank is TRIG1, Cam is TRIG2) CAM's PIN was oriented facing the dot on cam pulley's timing mark. Crank had one tooth shaved opposite to crank key per PRP's instructions 2 x 10 bar syltech pressure sensors (not working atm) Bosch 1000cc injectors Fluidampr 610911 Harmonic Damper/Pulley GT2860 -5 twins Link CAN-LAMBDA kit on CAN1 As I start the car, it cranks over endlessly without any signs of firing. I have attached the tune file and several trigger scope files to help with the issue. The trigger offset is set to 107* by a friend who also has experience tuning cars. To reach 107* the CAM plate (the one that holds the cam sensor) was turned clockwise all the way. I believe this is known to work in other similar setups. The engine speed is read around 200rpm when cranking and by understanding of trigger scope tells me that they are also setup correctly. Timing is locked at 10* and confirmed with timing light. amrit_gtr _initial_tune.pclx PC Datalog - 2022-07-17 5;32;30 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog_0717_1.llgx TriggerScopeLog_0717_2.llgx TriggerScopeLog_0717_3.llgx Audio clip attached when cranking first crank.mp4

Hey All, 1983 datsun-nissan 280zx NA L28e engine (straight 6) with efi, On a fuel rail with high impedance injectors, pace setter headers, innovate wideband, Stock ignition system, flaming river coil with 1.4 ohm resistance ngk stock plugs, ngk HT leads. Newer to distributor engines, and struggling with wiring the distributor from the link, the NA distributor doesn't have a CAS and has the e12-92 ignition module on two connectors to it, top connector with Pins B C and side connector I W I Tried wiring the Link ignition 1 wire to the B or the dizzy but no spark, I get spark without the ecu hooked up. Any thoughts on where to run the Ignition 1 wire? And thoughts on trigger wires? I feel like I'm missing something ridiculously obvious. Thanks everyone! Oh also attached is what my config file so far. -Nic 280zx l28e na base map setup 4.pclx

We installed a link atom on 5VZ-FE, but we have a problem with the trigger, the car was run, but the rpm is very slow, we think the trigger not correct 100%, anybody can help us, on the other forums said the crank trigger is 36-2, but whats about the ref timing and trigger offset ?

Hey guys, Just trying to fine tune my trigger setup on a 4G63T engine, late model evo 5 setup. I've purchased an aftermarket Kiggly crank trigger wheel, 12 tooth that runs off a standard mitsi hall sensor. Really nice piece of kit. My questions are directed at the cam sensor side of things. I have read that a crank sensor with a missing tooth arragement can be better, as the cam sensor tooth location is less important, but I don't really want to be hacking off a tooth from the new crank wheel. The standard mitsi Cam sensor is also a hall sensor, and the pickup has one large, and one small vane on it, as so: I will obviously be removing one of these vanes all together, but my question is which one and how much? Is there an ideal crank location for the cam pickup to be in? i.e 60 crank degrees either side of TDC. And tooth size on the modified vane can only be as small as the Hall sensor magnet? Or is tooth size irrelevant as it is only worried about leading edge? Obviously I dont have 360 degrees of choice to modifying this particular cam pickup, but I would like to put some thought into it. I.e I can flip the whole pickup 180deg if that allowed me to place a vane in a more desirable postion etc etc Cheers Ian

Guys can you please take a look at the attached trigger scopes and suggest what values I should use in the arming threshold tables please. Trigger Scope Log 2020-03-19 2;02;21 pm 2000RPM.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-03-19 2;08;11 pm 3000RPM.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-03-19 2;08;45 pm 4000RPM.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-03-19 2;19;40 pm START UP 0RPM.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-03-19 2;01;17 pm 1000RPM.llg

Hi All. I am having some trigger issues with my VH45 swapped Nissan Patrol. I am at the stage of setting timing trigger offset, but i am getting errors with the rpm when cranking, when doing so it spikes and i get an RPM limit activated error. I am no longer using the factory CAS disc, i have converted to a AEM 24-1 trigger disc. I have tried trigger filtering but this makes things worse. Anyone got any ideas what could be going wrong.

Hi! We have Link Evo 8 PnP and Evo 8 4g63 with kiggly racing 12 tooth trigger. And we have problems with engine start. Pops and bangs but no idle. We made trigger settings and offset calibration with timing light. We tried different settings (i.e. Rising edge on Trigger 2, because it is more centered between Trigger 1 Falling edges) We saw the strange thing - in direct spark mode timing light blinks every crank rev (2 times per cam rev). In wasted spark mode it blinks twice as often. I think here is the problem, but I don't understand why it happens. Trigger scopes and cranking log in attachment. Kiggly Cranking log.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-06-18 10;19;42 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-06-18 4;39;22 pm.llg

I need help to start my 4g69 mivec I grinded the stock crank trigger gear from 36-2-1 to 12-1 and I was planning to run it batch fire, only on crank trigger. This setup works on another car with the exact same engine and trigger wheel but different ecu, with Link ECU it reads 1000+ rpm just cranking with starter motor. I tried playing with all the settings, no hope, so I decided to switch the whole trigger setup to mitsubishi evo by installing the cam and crank trigger gears from 4g63 also cam and crank sensors from 4g63 and applied all the evo 7 trigger settings from the ecu help manaul. Now when I open runtime values when cranking, Trig1 and Trig2 are highligted green and (yes), trigger error keeps counting and the rpm doesn't rise above 0. I need to start the car with either 4g63 setup or the old 12-1 setup and if anyone knows another different way to start this engine I would really appreciate the help. attached are pictures for the two triggers.

Hi there all, i am facing a problem that i can not solve and i would like to know if anyone has face anything like this before. I am having the oem ecu and i am running with it for example at 1.5 bar of boost 20o advance and with the link now i am having 10o less.... and it is still doing some noise on the knock control. i have checked everything from the trigger to all the configurations... can anyone explain that please?? Thank you in advance Ted p.s. this is my map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u2cx1ZBQ66FVdE6DoaYb8im1vIODOZun/view?usp=sharing even that i am running less advance the car goes same or even better when i am running the oem ecu

I've been working on Subaru's basic settings for days, but I can't set the settings do the standarts for this car to make the WRX V5-6 runnig, have anyone a basic setting for wrx v5-6 that works? I think the problem is with the crankshaft sensor, he can not read the RPM, because I also get a wrong RMP on the ignition timing setting device Sorry for the bad english im from switzerland thanks ECU WRX Link 4+ Subaru Impreza RS WRX GC8 Engine EJ20

Hi I am currently converting my distributor style to coil on plug and wanting to control trigger inputs through a 12 tooth crank wheel with a hall effect sensor and a single pulse cam position with a hall effect sensor. Just wanting to know what the pinout is for both trigger one and trigger 2

I would like to ask the meaning of Trigger filtering level. In help online is a sentence to explain it "Some trigger signals contain a large amount of high frequency interference and electrical noise,..................". Trigger arming hold is the threshold which direct variation with trigger voltage. But, i don't get the main idea of filtering level. Level 1-4 are low-pass filter or anything else?

Hi, I'd like to know if it's possible to configure an hybrid CAM/CRANK trigger or if it as to be "hard coded" like the "NISSAN 360 Opto" option? I'd like to use the reset based on NISSAN 360 Opto (0º, 180º, 360º, 540º), that I already have installed on the CAM, and a 60 teeth wheel placed on the crank (one tooth is equivalent to 6º crank revolution). To my understanding and I might be wrong, the NISSAN cam trigger has 2 portions the resets with 4 slots one big that corresponds to 30º or 15 slots, the next corresponds to 22º or 11 slots, next 12º or 6 slots, and finally the smallest corresponds to 6º or 3 slots, and with this setup NISSAN doesn't need more than 1/4!? of a revolution to know where it is exactly (knowing that for each of the reset positions pulses it sees 15, 11, 6 or 3 pulses corresponding to the 0º, 180º, 360º, 540º angle position). The second portion are 360 slots corresponding to 2º, the part that is troublesome because of belt slop and or some other CAM related harmonics and it start to have erratic readings on higher RPMs even applying the highest filter possible. The change I need is to have the reset slots pulses correspond to different angle pulses (0º correspond to 5 pulses), (180º correspond to 3 pulses), (360º correspond to 2 pulses), (540º correspond to 1 pulse) of the crank wheel. I don't know how well explained this is, but hopefully someone understands where I'm getting with this. Setup: LINK G4+ THUNTHER on a NISSAN 300ZX Thanks for the help.

Hi all, Have had a few link ecu’s over the years, never had any issues with them Recently we have “inherited” a skyline (92/93) with a link plugin with a few startup issues. We have done the steps for the ECCS sync, both trigger one and two are coming up as yes, the opening is coming up as 24 degrees. We then set base timing to 15 deg, put a timing light on the high induction coil (near the igniter) to get our timing mark near 15 degrees on the harmonic balancer we end up with an offset of around 95. on startup the engine will not start, it only backfires out of the exhaust and occasionally from the intake. but when the offset is down in the 40’s the engine stumbles to start then dies, but our timing is way off the mark. We are using the standard rb20 with 440cc injectors map, engine is as follows Rb25 9.5-1 compression (Ross pistons and rods) standard crank 254 duration cams-221 @.50 (vct delete) Aeroflow rising rate, brushless fuel pump spitfire coil packs (running wasted spark) iridium plugs Garret 48/54. ICS-1 wideband any help would be appreciated! Our overall timing is setup from the factory marks and the adjustable cams are the same.

Is there a preferred type of cable to be used to connect a crank trigger to the Link ECU? I know the standard connector and cable have plain wire but diagrams I have seen suggest the use of a shielded pair type of wire. Going on a high speed engine but only 6 tooth trigger wheel and using Link supplied crank and cam trigger sensors.

Hi I hope someone can help me. Car is old vw beetle and i try to get more than 500bhp out of it. Had struggles past 3 years, but i really hoped to join my friends next weekend for my first dragrace. On the dyno, with load, the car is "buggering" or misfires. My "dynoguy" says there is not clean enough trigger signal, so the ecu does not now exactly were crank position is and misfires. I have tried 3 different triggerweel setups with VR sensors, and had several dyno attempts, also rerouted the shilded trigger cable so its far away from power wires. I have a friend with same type V44 and i borrowed his ecu last night, but could not hear any approvements or see any on the log. I have log files if someone could look at them. My "Dynoguy" also told me to log RPM-rate, so i did. But was this data mean? I really hoping for help. Edit: I Have attached engine map and log from yesterday. Just started it on trailer. min-ecu-Log 9-08-17 9;24;20 pm.llg Turboroadster-09-08-2017.pcl

hi guys just wanted to post this to help other that may come accross it i purchased an r31 with rb30 in it and ross trigger setup it had honeywell gt101's on it at the time i rewired the car and in the process replaced the honeywells with cherry alternatives when car runs i found that i was getting no consitent trigger errors 30-40/5min period after help form adam and simon and ross (all were extremely helpfull) found that the particular pickup i have was one which ross dont make anymore due to having trigger errors you can see in the trigger scopes below a normal cycle and i was lucky enough to trigger scope right when an error occured which you can see is the large pulse inbetween the two cam pulses this is caused by the cherry sensors being sensitive enough to pickup the balencing hole inside the pickup opposite the cam pulse. (honeywell sensors as far as im awear have some sort of integrated filtering which stops this occuring) ross have very kindly said they will replace the pickup thanks again to simon and adam esspecially who made fault finding this alot easier matt

hi i'm Japanese i have link g4 storm I am in trouble by trigger error count trigger setting 　　do not know use k20a preset There was a person I could not use it l15a trigger scope 　　　 I saw it. The waveform is different from the TDC of the image that was in the k20 forum The waveform is generated only on the + side Is wiring different? I want to solve it thank you

I have a separate engine in my dyno and I can get it to start, not sure whats going. Harness and ECU work on the car but not on dyno engine. Both have Hall Effect Sensors, in spite of them being feed 12V trigger 2 seems to have a hard time holding up voltage. In the "Trigger Status" there is a thing called "ECCS Sync" I get a NO should I get a YES for it to work? I have attached the "trigger scope", this is during cranking as I can't get it to start.