remski2

Something like this.

This would make sense completely, and is exactly what I thought would happen. My car would start about 50% of attempts immediately, or would crank over with no signs of starting ever, and occasionally a large backfire out of the exhaust.
Sorry, forgot to mention I'm using S20 Ej205 heads chamber matched to an EJ257. My 02 wrx originally came with an EJ20, but I'm pretty sure EJ205/255/257 all use the same crank pulley up to a point. S20 heads being the USDM EJ205 heads, have no spot for rear mounted cam sensors in the heads. As far as I'm aware, if I wanted to easily use Ej257 sensors for the cams (with B25/V25 Heads) I'd have to modify my harness significantly. Even with B25/V25 heads, I'd have Ej205 cams and cam gears and use the 2.0 Cam sensor as that is what works best.

Hi.
IDC hits about 92%.. so yes, you are running out of injectors.. all this considered that your TPS only goes up to 68%... 
You are also running 10.7 AFR.. while targetting 12.3... ?
Getting within your AFR target might keep you below ~90% IDC. 
As for the cut at 4900.. trigger issues ? since you have about 28 of trigger errors... 
 
Last not least.. no knock control ?
 
Remski

Hi.  
There is no knock enabled.
CLL is on but its configured not to do anything at any time.. even at idle.. ???
 
You are running lean pretty much all the time..  I dont see any point at which the target AFR is met. 
(you could have developed a leak in your exhaust and now it reads lean all the time or you have a leak on the intake side)
 
Your coils are 3ms (stock) and its set to 3.8.. while notmuch..  you are constantly ovedriving and shortening the life span.. (sometimes its beneficial to run higher but usually its only for a short time ..not all the time)
 
Injector data looks a bit off as well.. 
 
It almost looks like the tuner forgot to save the changes..
 
My 2c... 

Heads up.. you can click on any variable and then press F1.. that will give you a description.
I find Link's help file useful and well constructed.
 
Ign Start Position - The injectors will be opened for the time specified in the Injector Prime Time table the first time the key is turned to the start position.  This ensures that the prime fuel is not injected too early when the key is turned on, then turned to start some time later.  This mode requires a Digital Input to be configured as Start Position and wired to the start terminal on the ignition switch.
 
I'd bump pre-crank prime by 50% and see if it does anything.. If it does.. then lower it until you satisfied with the hot start.
If that doesnt do much.. then go back to original value.. and bump your Crank enrich by 50%.. see how that plays out.. 
Try bumping First crank enrich too.. but just do one change at a time and see which one has the most effect.
You could also change that to Key On and turn the key twice or more in order to gain idea if thats helping. 
 
Also.. I see the car started without much effort on the 2nd crank.. right after it didnt.. I've seen cars with fuel manifolds right on top of intake manifolds or in places where they touch hot parts.. this causes fuel to literally boil and may causes harder starts. 
 
Hope this helps.

Just use a file sharing service .. like google drive, dropbox.. etc..

I can only imagine the frustration of having all lights green and still having it rough. lol
What exact model ECU? What exact year and model car? What exact make, model, and year engine? What green lights are you talking about? Do you have a copy of your tune you can attach? Do you have a datalog of the car running?

Yeah thats normal in G4+.  Not sure what the reason was, probably hardware related but may have been some other smart OEM idea for bleeding air or something.  The cams wont respond until they see 35% or so.  
 

I see few more things.. 
Your cam control is set to EJ20.
At 9:46 .. you have a steady throttle, Accel Enrich is done (9:44) and yet you are running rich... 
 

Just making sure that you know to remove fuel where you adding the meth...

Hi.
Your knock needs to be tuned first.. to see if this was real knock. 
I wouldnt be going around and doing pulls on untuned knock/ignition. This is a recipe for a new iag900 block.
Either take it to a tuner or take some courses.
 
Also if you fixed your idle.. post what fixed it.. it might help another guy..
 
to reduce knock you'd usually remove timing or add fuel or both.. or look at you AVCS.
Remski
 
Also.. you went from 6500 to 7700 so either you have trigger issues or your clutch slipped.

You hitting an ignition cut mid of your pull... 
You are close to MAP limit but it doesnt show it triggered.. 
2nd thing.. your knock.. 
3rd.. you have warm up enrichment on while at normal operating temps.. add that to fuel and zero out your operating range.
Unless there is another reason to have it on...
 
my2c.

I have 272 GSC cams and I idle at 1100.. so bump your idle speed.
I'd copy the E-throttle PID settings from the base map. 
Copy your Idle ignition control PID settings from the base map as well. 
See where that gets you...
If that doesnt work switch to Open loop idle control and go from there. 
 
Hope this helps.

Yeah I dont think it will get much better.  Most of it is "sync time" - this is when the ecu has determined engine position and phase.  VQ35 trigger mode needs 360deg crank rotation to sync.
In pic below;
Red line is where battery voltage drops (starter motor first engages).  Log time 03.218s Purple line is where RPM is first detected. Somewhere between time 03.796 & 04.046s Blue line is when ECU has determined crank and cam position and fuel and ignition are enabled. Time between 04:046 & 04.077s Green line is engine running (>400rpm).  Time between 04.108 & 04.140s. So 0.922s total to start, about 0.8s of that was taken up by the ecu determining crank and cam position.  
There is not much you can do to improve the sync time apart from make cranking speed faster, it is really just a fact of an aftermarket ecu with a more basic trigger code since it has to work with many different types of engines.  The factory nissan ecu only needs to run 1 engine type so it will have a more complex sync strategy - it will probably use both camshaft sensors and may also start in wasted spark so will sync much quicker.

3 wire back into your Prosport gauge might be tricky.. 
You will need to check if both sensors output the same voltage for given pressure. 
Maybe it would be easier to send output from the ECU ??? but I havent figured how to do it. 

You wont be able to use a 3 wire sensor to the gauge, they have a strong pull up resistor so will make the sensor and ecu read incorrect - if at all.  

I dont think it looks like it moved. If you look close you will see 2 half round marks.. those would be the 2 times the timing was changed and bolt was tightened. 
If it moved you would not have the mark in the middle, as it would slide from right to left.
But you clearly see that half way it was tightened again thus leaving the mark of the edge of the bolt. 
Once you remove the bolt you will probably see the 3rd half round mark.. 
That would tell you that the bolt was tightened in place and didnt move. 
 
my2c

Well.. put a multimeter on the sensor and see what voltage you get.
Based on that you can create a CAL table and scale it.. 
"should be" linear.. 
I am feeding my Defi gauges into my Link.. 
Read somewhere that the gauges and ecu have to be grounded together in the same place for reliable readout...  ( and thats how I run it) 

60 kPa oil pressure is about 8.7psi..  (I use psi..)
My Idle Oil pressure is at ~200 - 260kPa.
So unless I am reading it wrong you letting your engine rev to 9000rpm with only 8.7psi....
 
 
 
 
I have Oil Pressure / rpm table. ( limiting rpm)
Fuel pressure / MGP, since I have a rasing rate regulator (turbo) (limiting rpm)
Lambda / MAP ( removing timing) 
 
Here are my tables. 
 
 
 
 

All I can see is that the knock is not setup. Its there but doesnt do anyhting.
Plugs + this seem to paint one conclusion.

If Allow CAN antitheft is off and there is no antitheft DI assigned then the antitheft status will just show whatever was last left in that memory location so is not relevant.  "Engine Kill" will be active if there is anything ECU wise attempting to prevent start up. 

7K narrow will see that.  
However, just for your interest, I rarely find the calculated frequency is ideal.   Below is a pic from me doing some testing on our EJ207.  The calculated frequency based on the 92mm bore size for the engine would be about 6.2KHz.  
Frequency is on the Y axis of this pic.  If you look at 6.2K, there is so much noise it is hard to really see any difference between knock and no knock.  If you look at the 2nd harmonic of this at about 12.4K, it is not really any better.  In fact about 8-9KHz has the best signal to noise ratio for determining knock in this case.  
But what Im getting at is the bands are usually quite wide - +/-0.5KHz is not going to make much difference.  

Something I've done recently is add a knock warning to my CE Light, I used a math block to calculate knock level - threshold and put it through a gp output to get an off delay (hold time) and fed it into the CE Light Aux.
So far I've only used it for playing around with setting up my thresholds (so I can see how often it happens and for a clearer picture of when it happens) but I imagine it will be very useful once I've finished setting u the knock too. It has also been very useful for reviewing Knock stuff in PCLink logs as often the knock stuff happens too fast to be caught by PCLink but the knock light status can be used to see when it occurs without needing to actually see the knock level above the threshold.
 

I'd re-clock only if your volt readings are not within specs...  0.5V - 4.5V I believe.. otherwise I dont think it will make any difference.

If IAT is not the cause of your issue then the other common cause of lean hot restart is due to the injectors getting hot since they are sitting in a very hot environment and attached to a hot cylinder head, with very hot intake valves right underneath them and without the usual fuel flowing through them to keep them cool. 
The way to work around this is to use a 3D IAT trim table with IAT Vs engine runtime on the axes.  Then at hot IAT's you can add say an extra 15% fuel at initial startup and fade it out over say 2 mins.