Adamw

Sorry, I have no idea what you are asking, your post doesnt make sense at all and seems to have a whole lot of irrelevant comments? Dwell scatter would be normal for a distributor trigger - this is not related to battery voltage, it is due to the ecu getting irregular/poor engine position information due to the distributor bouncing backwards and forwards. I highly doubt a 10% variation in dwell time is going to be noticeable in terms of tune or the way it runs. Injector deadtimes can make a significant difference at idle if they are not correct, but at say 4000RPM, when the PW is much longer the deadtimes are much less important. It is highly unlikely your problem is related to deadtimes or dwell time. Please attach a log if you have a problem with the fuel tuning.

Trig 1 looks ok, trigger 2 doesnt look right. For a trigger 2 tooth to be considered acceptable it needs to go rise above 1.5V and fall below 1.0V. Yours doesnt rise above 1.5V so its not going to work. But... This is the opposite of what I would expect if you had fitted a 1.2Kohm pull-up. Are you sure it is fitted correctly? Are you sure it is 1.2K? Can you turn the internal trigger 2 pull-up off and do another triggerscope. And why did you put a pull-up on your IAT?

If you need and injector signal and a MAP signal why wouldnt you just splice into those signals?

Is the log of the car driving? It appears to just be over-run that holds the RPM high. Can you do a log of giving it a blip with the car in neutral/not moving.

No external pull-up needed. Connect sensor, set calibration to Std Bosch NTC.

AN T1 & 2 have selectable pull-ups, AN T3 & 4 have a fixed 1K pull-up.

Can you attach your ECU config and the RS3 custom CAN, I will fix it up.

Cant you just swap the pins in the ECU plug?

Yes, so it would be normal/correct for the ignition outputs to be grounded all the time for this car.

I find the best way to do it is usually in the Link end keep the "MXS Stream" as it already has the bulk of the channels that you would need, then send a separate stream (on a different ID) that has the extra channels you want to send. In the AIM End you set up a custom receive template that receives both of these ID's the Link in sending. I have attached a CAN template for RS3, import this and open for editing, This has the 13 frames that are sent in the MXS stream, and if you scroll to the bottom of it you will see an extra row added with an ID of 0x44C (1100) with 3 EGT channels. You can just delete these and add your own. Once you have added the channels you want, save it and go to your dash config, click on change ECU and browse to the Link category - you will have a new custom template in there. It will popup with a screen about renaming channels - I suggest you uncheck the box that says "keep old names" and just click cancel or ignore down the bottom. I have named the channels I think better than AIM did. Set up in the Link will look like below, with MXS stream on the normal ID1000, and a user stream on ID1100. LINK_Link custom V1 _@20200811_085745_006642.xc1

You need to push the white lock tab in on the side of the connector, it should click in about 2-3mm. You can then insert or extract the terminals fairly easily. If they dont go in easily then your wire is too thick or crimp tool is not suitable. The crimp on the insulation tabs should be round - not a B type crimp. Here is an old video I had on my phone showing how the terminals insert/remove: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MnJlNTBhX_ccv40PbVgIi9XTy4HbXEfJ/view?usp=sharing

That would be correct behavior for 99% of ignition systems in use today. Most ignitors or coils start charging on the rising edge and spark on the falling edge. So with the engine not running the ignition outputs should be low all the time (ground), with the engine running there will be a short high pulse (~6V) for the 2 or 3ms dwell time once per cycle, the rest of the time it will be low/gnd. The only exception to this convention is some Fords with the TFI system in the 1980/90's and some early hondas that had the coil inside the distributor. What car do you have and what ignition system?

I suspect you clicked the capture button before cranking? Get the engine cranking first, the click the capture button while the engine is cranking, and keep it cranking for a couple of seconds.

Were you using a low frequency such as 10Hz when testing the solenoid? If you just do test On/Off (not PWM) do you hear the solenoid click?

Yes, try some more gain. Ideally Id like to see typical knock level up around 200 at WOT.

Just do a trigger scope while cranking, that will show us if trigger 2 signal is acceptable. Don’t need anything else connected or working.

Yes, the auxes are pulled up to 12V, so it will be 12V when off and gnd when on. Actually just rethinking my reply above, since I dont know what sort of test light you have, Im going to change my advice. Connect one side of the test light to +12V, connect other side to Aux 3/pin 8. Test light will be off when aux 3 is set to off, and glow when set to test ON.

Try this, the base position table was a long way off what it needed and I have turned on idle ign control. micktune V2.0.pclr

I would suggest the next step is put a test light on pin 8, it should light up when Aux 3 is set to off, and turn off when aux 3 is set to "Test (ON)".

Yes, either of those are fine.

Yes pin 8 is Aux 3. So if it is connected to aux 3 and you set it to test PWM and set the frequency to 10Hz, you dont hear it clicking?

The log suggests there is injector PW being commanded. The battery voltage and RPM is very low though - was this log taken with a flat battery? Is there possibly no ground connection between ECU and engine? The Log shows it came from a plug-in ECU, what model ECU and car? Does it show signs of life if you add fuel via starting spray?

Actually, just looking at that scope again, it almost looks to me like they have some of the magnets fitted in backwards. You're meant to have 12 magnets all facing the same polarity (ie all north poles facing one way), then the 13th oddly spaced magnet is meant to be facing the opposite polarity. It looks to me like youve possibly got 4 magnets facing one way and 9 facing the other way. If youve got an old school compass or maybe another magnet you could confirm that yourself (not sure if an iphone compass would work, but maybe).

Sorry, only just noticed this, Ill take a look tomorrow. Can you attach your G4X map.

Ok, something is very wrong there. You should see nice evenly spaced teeth all the same size on trigger 1 and just a single tooth on trigger 2 once every 12 trig 1 teeth. Im not sure what could cause that - possibly a wiring problem, or the sensor is faulty, or possibly something random like some of those stainless countersunk screws are actually magnetic and triggering the sensor? Start by reconfirming the wiring - The home wire should go to Link trigger 2 and the "trigger" wire should go to Link trigger 1. If you're happy the wiring is correct then I think its going to need some input from Taarks.