Adamw

Just go to the E-throttle settings and set E-throttle mode to off should be all it needs I think.

Ok, yeah that looks ok, must have been some glare. Man I hope there arent more of those cables out there... I will let the team know tomorrow. I apologise that it got to you like that. Hopefully nothing is damaged, but if it is we will look after it. I suspect it will be ok if you just swap those wires, correct order shown below. The terminals pop out pretty easy, you just push the little barb in with a pin through the window on the side of the connector.

No, it shouldnt be quiet, the earbubs with a mic and 4 pole plug are your problem. Most 4 pole earbuds wont work correctly in 3 pole jacks. You need a set with a plain stereo/3 pole connector. You may be able to get some sort of adapter to convert the 4 pole pinout to 3 pole but there are at least 2 different 4 pole pinouts so it is hard to know what you have.

Im not sure but suspect not. If you do ever get a backfire at key on then contact tech support with the serial number etc. Off the top of my head I dont know what stock is affected and how it is being taken care of/replaced. The WRX11 im driving at the moment has the old hardware in it and has never backfired so seems it doesnt affect all cars either.

Koracing was talking about the hold power keep alive time. This is how long the ECU stays powered up for after you turn ignition off to allow the idle motor to reset to its home position. 5 or 10 seconds will do for a WRX.

CAN 1 is available in the 6 pin round port below the USB tuning port.

Yeah, I reckon that cable is wrong. Is that the Link cable that was supplied with the ECU? Also, a bit hard to tell in the photo, but does that PCB look all fried up in this area below?

The gear shift control function is generally designed for motorsport "dogboxes" where you generally need quite a large torque reversal to get the dogs to disengage. It is a fixed cut regarless of load and RPM. Torque reduction for an auto trans is generally much less severe, usually just retard, sometimes the throttle is closed a little too. You can do the retard using a 4D ignition table triggered by a DI or whatever.

The ECU should have no influence on the ABS, there is nothing needed from the engine ecu for the ABS to work. You should also still be able to communicate with the ABS unit via the scantool, the scantool wont see the Link ECU, but there is still a direct connection from the consult port to the ABS ecu. Try the procedure below and see what codes you get flased back.

I suggest you leave it set to Engine fan 1, the settings are in the engine fan menu as shown below.

Can you attach your most recent tune. And a log of it cranking again.

Fix the crank wiring and do us another trigger scope and a pc log of it cranking. Your ecu logs are no use as there is barely anything logged.

We dont make any adapter looms, but there are a few 3rd party vendors around that do them.

I'll have to confirm with engineering on Monday about what scenarios can cause the fault. But the main cause I do know of off the top of my head is where the connected device doesnt allow the aux output voltage to rise to near 12V when off or fall to near 0V when on. In the case I have seen it (subaru fuel pump controller was clamping it to 7V), the output still worked fine, it was more just a warning that the voltage isnt as expected. In my case I moved it to a spare ignition drive which is only a 7V output.

Its not an easy one to answer and not usually something I wouldnt suggest, it can become quite a challange to make everything work happily. If you only do fuel and ignition it wont be so bad but there will still be a couple of issues to overcome such as a CE light since CLL wont be doing what the OEM ecu expects. sometimes there are reflashing options to disable some of these faults. The more control you take, the more difficult it becomes. You really want the Link controlling E-throttle since idle control etc wont work well when the factory ecu doesnt have control of ignition. But then taking control of E-throttle can be a big head ache with all the safety systems often not able to be disabled.

Its not at present unfortunately but there are a couple of work arounds we can try. If you had an external scope that would make it easy but most likely we can work it out without one. Make sure ITB's are synced as good as possible by eye, throttle stops are set at a realistic idle opening, then set up ECU logging to log all the time and log parameters Trigger 1 state, MAP and Internal MAP at 1000Hz, and give us a log of a cranking attempt. That may give us enough to get it right.

Can you update to the latest firmware as there is a fix in there that will help one of the idle issues I see in this log. Then do us another log and attach a copy of the tune at the same time.

An engine needs fuel, spark and compression to run. You said when it wont run the timing light still flashes, so that mostly eliminates spark as the problem. We can assume it has compression and is mechanically sound as you say it runs sometimes so we can cross that one off the list for now. So, the most obvious factor left is fuel. We can see in the log the ecu is commanding the injectors to fire, but this doesnt always mean there is fuel getting in to the combustion chamber. The commanded PW is very short in your log which is why I asked you to increase the master, not sure if you done that. I dont know what the injector size or the fuel pressure is in these bikes so I cant even guess how much PW it needs. But, there could also be any number of other fuel related problems that wont show in the log - for instance there may be no fuel pressure, or low voltage at the injectors, etc... The reason I asked you to do a test with starter fluid is it will quickly prove if it is a fuel problem or not and that gives you a direction to head based on the result of that test. The plugs being wet does not mean there is enough fuel for combustion - it just means there is no combustion.

Can you pull the ecu out of the case and check that the USB pigtail is plugged into the correct white USB socket on the top board, I have seen some users remove those during installation and plug them back into one of the CAN ports by mistake.

I would say most likely he has way too much dwell. JZ ignitors dont like any channels overlapping and will cut sparks if they do. Generally about 1.8ms is the most they will take. Your log shows dwell between 2.8-3.2ms.

Your crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity. Swap the +/- wires at the sensor connector. Also, you only have a single tooth on the cam so that wont work with the holden trigger mode. Set up you trigger like below.

The only change you will need to make is set the ignition mode to "direct spark".

I assume you are talking about this thread here: I look after the forum in mostly my own time, I try to get on here twice a day for half an hour so most posts get some sort of reply or a guide on the next steps to take within 12hrs. So my replies are usually pretty short and sweet and to the point. I dont give "by the book answers", I tell you what information is needed based on the symptoms to progress through a diagnosis. In your first post you mentioned there was no RPM showing which means the trigger signal doesnot match what the ECU is set to expect so I asked for a triggerscope and a copy of the tune. I would have solved the RPM problem that same day if you had followed my instruction and done the triggerscope. Instead of that you posted a series of irrelevant stuff over two days and 4 more posts before I got the triggerscope. Then you attached two further posts full of pictures of the trigger wheels and a whole lot of confusing requotes etc, stating that a wrench represents the sensor, but there wasnt really a question asked, or even an explanation of what the pictures were for. I never asked for pictures of the triggerwheel or sensor? In my last post I suggested you try some starting fluid as that would give some clues as to whether your short running problem was related to fuel or something else. You said you where going to do that but you have never posted the result so Im not sure how I can help further until you have confirmed that. Otherwise we are just shooting in the dark and it will take longer to solve. So my suggestion is to slow down, try to word your replies so that there is a clear question or statement of the problem, read my instructions carefully and reply with the info that is requested. Otherwise, if you want more direct help you can phone or email tech support for more instantaneous help. What specific bug have you found? G4+ is pretty mature and stable now, there arent many major ones effecting a lot of users left. We are still releasing bug fixes for G4+ however so happy to take a look if you give more specific info. We still support all users right back to our very first EMX ecu which is nearly 30years old now. Obviously we are not doing firmware updates for them anymore, but I dont think you will find better support for previous products anywhere. G4+ is still current and will be maintained for sometime yet.

Did you try the one I gave you the other day:

Yes that will be fine. The only important thing with that trigger setup will be the alignment of the cam peg will be quite critical. One edge needs to pass the center of the cam sensor roughly half way between 2 crank teeth.