Adamw

The ECU has a CAN termination resistor built in. Check you are on recent firmware - the MXS stream was only added in 5.6.6 something. Also, assuming you have an Xtreme wire-in ECU, if you are using CAN 2, make sure DI9 & DI10 are set to off.

From memory those distributors have either 3 wires, the white is ground, connect this to any sensor ground - typically we connect to ECU pin 7 (next to trig 1 pin). Then I think they have either a blue or green wire that goes to the top sensor, connect this to the trig 2 pin. The shield should also be connected to ground at the ecu end - doesnt matter if it is chassis ground or ecu ground or sensor ground - any will do. In the Link looms the shield and the trigger grounds all get spliced together near the ecu and connected to pin 7.

The distributor cam sync is possibly slightly easier in terms of set up to make it work. Two shielded wires to connect, set sync to cam pulse and away you go. Possibly not as aesthetically pleasing so that may be a consideration. The MAP sync option will require three wires, and maybe a little more faffing around with triggerscope etc to get it set up right, but again not onerous. I can guide you through the setup. In terms of accuracy etc, there is no preference - all the ecu does is checks if a cam pulse or map pulse was received in the previous crank revolution. All the timing and important stuff is done by the crank wheel.

Have a look at "TE ML 2" on this page: https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Screened_Cables.html This is the common M27500 that is used in motorsport, probably overkill in a road car but if you only need to buy a few meters it doesnt usually work out too bad. 150°C rated so a bit more suitable than the 70°C rated belden above.

Your options are: Leave hardware as-is, Change inj mode to multipoint group and ign mode to wasted spark, coil wiring will need to be changed a little. Put the distributor base back in, use the 1 tooth wheel connected to trigger 2 for the cam sync. You can get a billet cover etc so you dont need the old dizzy cap. This will alllow sequential/direct spark. Fit a MAP sensor (wire to AN Volt 1), connect its hose to a single manifold runner, and use the "MAP" level sync option. This will alllow sequential/direct spark.

You can do that no worries. 0.00390625 is 1/256. Since we are converting from lambda to bits we do the opposite of bits to lambda. They also have an offset of 0.5 Lambda applied, so it would look like this:

Is your wiring like this:

Looking at you map it has sync set to none which wont work for sequential or direct spark. Have you removed the distributor altogether or is it still there as a cam sensor only?

Is the blue light beside the main connector on?

If it runs sparks and runs fine with your 1NZ coils then that would suggest your map/settings are fine and it is more likely a wiring issue. Both ground pins need to be connected to the cylinder head. Are you sure they are R8 coils? Some of the similar VAG coils (usually shorter stem) have the same plug, but different pinout.

No, it is just a warning to let you know there is something wrong.

The RS232 comm port on the G4X is now a totally separate port from the PC connection, so it cant be used to connect to PC Link at this time. There are definitely some other users reporting similar connection issues with G4X to what you describe. The engineers have been working hard on it for months trying to get to the bottom of it and some of the recent firmware updates have made improvements but I still dont think it is totally solved. In some cases where they have been able to investigate they have found wiring issues and in others it seemed to be isolated a specific laptop so there has been no silver bullet yet. It has been hard to diagnose as we havent been able to reproduce in-house. In the next PC Link release (release tentatively planned for next week) there is a totally new direct USB connection method that bypasses the virtual com port system altogether, and for the few people with problem connections that have tried it so far it has been encouraging. I will PM you a link to try.

It has worked all along. See this post:

So have you got 4 wires to each coil? The photo is not very clear but I only see 3? Do you get a continuous spark if you use the ignition test mode?

I assume you are talking 168 Fahrenheit? Need more detail about which ECU and what it is driving.

Your tune looks mostly ok. Have you calibrated the pedal and tps? Can you attach a short PC log of some pedal movement. https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A

69 & 70 are the dedicated knock1 & knock2 input pins. You dont need to assign them, just turn on knock control, set it up and tune it.

Yeah, you cant have 2 Ecu interfaces connected to the dash at the same time. You can use the Link interface or the built-in haltech interface, but not both.

Did you try the offset at -285? You could just be 360 out, sparking on the exhaust stroke. Otherwise, do us a short log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your map.

Try the attached files. I've added boost knob, ethanol and launch status to the dash. I havent added channels into the standard stream in the AEM before so I may not have it right, it is not clear whether it needs the multiplexor assigned or not since that should in theory already be there for the existing stream but it seemed to need it so I have added it. If no luck it may take a bit of trial and error to figure it out. 812819915_R32ryantwinpumpe85 with boost knob.pclr aemcd7 link G4plus r32 gtr with boost knob.aemcd7

For ITB NA engines I usually connect the FPR reference to the airbox, connecting to the manifold just upsets fuel press too much. It could possibly be done with a small vacuum manifold, but I have never tried and airbox reference has always worked fine for me. I also havent tried the FP sensor "fuel system type" with an NA ITB engine yet either - I have never had one with both a MAP sensor and FP sensor to try. But I do have a little doubt it may do more harm than good since the MAP will be quite unstable at idle, so that will make the the calculated dif fuel press noisy, which will make the calculated inj PW noisy. Worth a try though with a short high speed log of diff fuel press and PW you will soon if if its worth using or not. Otherwise, if you still want some form of fuel pressure correction for safety you can set up a 4D fuel table to do basically the same but without the MAP reference.

Correct, you cant do non linear calibration via CAN AN Volt in the G4+. That was just an example to show the CAN AN Volt channels will always use volts as units and always with a 1 decimal point resolution - so it is not always intuitive. G4X is much more flexible, but G4+ has some restrictions.

Still not clear. What is connected to CAN 1 and what is connected to CAN 2?

Triggers > Trigger 2 > Trigger 2.