Adamw

It shouldnt need much work from the base map to get it running. Is it still distributor? Have you checked base timing? Can you attach a log of it cranking and a copy of your map.

Your idle ignition table looks nothing like the example I gave. So fix that first. Then do a log of it idling with it warmed up.

It looks more like you havent balanced your levels to me. I would also generally want the levels a bit higher than what you are using. Also, since you are wasted spark you cant have individual cyl control, you will notice cyl 1 & 4 knock levels are the same and 2 & 3 are the same. You should assign both cyl 1 & 4 to knock table one and cyl 2 & 3 to knock table 2. I suspect the spike you are seeing actually happens after you lift off - the PC logging is not fast enough to see exactly when it happened. It is pretty common to get a spike like that when you lift off at high RPM, I normally lockout knock somewhere before the normal redline and and have a TP lockout somewhere around 40% to avoid this.

Is coolant temp and the Speedo working? Can you attach a copy of your latest map.

Cruise on switch latch is done in the cruise settings rather than on the DI.

The error limits are more there for covering a failed sensor or wiring situation rather than just a driver warning. If you just want a warning for IAT & ECT as per your example you would use a GP output. Example below to cover the IAT, ECT & Oil temp. If you want more you can use a virtual aux for one of the conditions and add another 3. You can also set a virtual aux to CE light and combine that with other conditions so that the one CE light does the temp warnings and the normal CE light function.

You can get these from all over the place, not just Link, but others such as AEM & Haltech sell the same sensor so you should be able to find them easy enough. They are NPT, not BSP as the text says: https://dealers.linkecu.com/NTC1-8_2

Yeah that trigger scope looks good. It is not uncommon to see 1 or two trigger errors on shutdown or start up with some systems. As long as you dont get any when driving I would be happy.

If you want just a 2D table then right click on the table, choose axis setup, then (click the green wave next to engine speed) change the X axis parameter to none.

Answered in this one:

Here is the diagrams from the current quick start guide. Preferred option at top with The lambda powered from its own relay connected directly to the battery. The alternative wiring below with the extra capacitor is if you are not using its own relay but instead connecting to some other power supply in the car such as in this example the ECU relay: As for the CAN wiring, it should be like below, also with a 120ohm resistor across the CANH/L wires near the CAN lambda connector:

No, unlikely. Error's 16 & 17 are the throttle position sensor. Even if the TPS is disconnected it will unlikely prevent the engine from starting. If you want help with solving the actual starting problem, then the best option is probably to take a log of the car starting up well, and another log when the car does not start, then there may be some clues in the differences between the two logs.

There are many ways you can do it, but you would normally use the same switch that enables your anti-lag like so: Make sure you are using the latest firmware, this was fixed in the last release. It is minimum and maximum actuator position. I havent yet seen any need for integral clamp in the G4X idle control.

Just choose "4 Bar" in the MAP sensor calibration, the Omni sensor matches the Link 4Bar calibration.

Do a PC Log with everything logged. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Single wire sensor is not suitable for ECU use, as sensor ground would have to be connected to the engine for it to work. Also, these are typically very low resistance, designed for 12V pull-up rather than 5V which ECU's typically use.

This is the Error low/Error High value on each analog input setup. If any of the analog inputs go outside of these error values then the CE Light output will be activated. The CE Light output can be a real wired aux output/lamp, or just a virtual aux if you are only interested in sending it out via CAN. The relevant fault code is also sent out over CAN so you can know what activated the CE Light.

I would suggest sticking with the V5/6 map since it matches your pinout, open two instances of PC Link side by side with your V5 map open in one and the V7 map open in the other. Copy the relevant settings across. Really just trigger, VVT and idle from memory. I think you should be able to get away with it if you are changing to the V7 idle valve that will free up 3 extra aux outputs. There is no big advantage to direct spark Vs wasted spark until you get up to very high RPM (you will start to run out of dwell time around 10000RPM), a small advantage of direct spark is you can do individual cylinder knock control - compared to wasted spark on the G4+ you have to retard 2 cylinders at once for knock control.

Tacho is aux 3, pin 58 on the Evo 4-8 ecu.

There is a base map in the Vipec software. Use the S13-14 base map if your car has the 76Pin ecu, use the S14-15 base map if your car has the 64pin ecu.

Yeah, It appears that crank sensor might be a bit intermittent. I bet thats a real fun job to change on one of these... There is a slim chance it could be a bad ground I guess but the cam sensor looks ok so I would expect that to show similar signs at the same point if it was a bad ground. Its also a bit odd that it is going to 9 or 10V, I will check what voltage by Evo sensor outputs tomorrow, but I kind of expected 5V like the cam sensor.

Something a bit fishy with your crank sensor I think, it is showing one tooth much shorter than the rest on one revolution, the next revolution it is ok so that suggests the tooth is actually there - just the sensor is not reading it correctly. Do you want to try a couple more triggerscopes to confirm if we can capture that again - it is pretty odd.

You will be better off keeping the stock trigger, with the GTO mode the ECU uses both the rising and falling edge of the teeth effectively giving you the same resolution as 6 teeth on the crank. If you change to multitooth mode the ecu will only see 3 teeth. Please attach a triggerscope, log of it cranking and your tune.

Log and tune please.

Ok, you're not going to be able to get all of these. The G4+ lets you have a maximum of 6 user configurable CAN ID's, this list will require 8 if we try to duplicate the Haltech stream + your CAN lambda needs 1. Here's the Haltech ID's for the channels you wanted: ID 864; RPM, MAP ID 865; Fuel press, Oil Press. ID 872; Lambda ID 867; Wheel Speed ID 882; Batt Voltage ID 992; IAT, ECT, Oil temp, Fuel Temp ID 993; Ethanol ID 994; Fuel Level Batt voltage you probably dont need as there is an internal dash voltage channel anyway. I believe the dash will eventually be updated to enable a direct fuel level input so you can probably get away without that. But that still really leaves you needing 6 ID's but you only have 5 spare.