Adamw

That would be fine. Connect dizzy pin 2&4 to D22 which I assume is the black wire. Distributor pin 5 to the grey, distributor pin 6 to the blue.

Please continue to communicate with Anthony, I cant help. I suspect the problem is the "0" on the front of the serial number, this is meant to be removed. You need the code for 4471, not 04471.

This means the ecu hasnt received a CAN message with the DI status for more than 2 seconds. This is a safety feature so if for example a wire gets broken your CAN-controlled cruise control wont get "stuck on". Default realdash behaviour is it only sends a CAN message when a state changes (ie the button is pressed). The "write interval" option is meant to force realdash to send the message at least once every interval regardless of a state change. So it sounds like your .XML is either missing the write interval attribute or has a formatting issue with it, or there is a bug preventing that from working. You could possibly use the CAN monitor in realdash to see if that message is being transmitted regularly. I assume it shows transmitted messages.

Your trigger offset is zero in the G4+ map and 268 in the G4X map. You need to confirm that with a timing light but I would expect similar numbers in both ecu's.

I can see in our tech support system that one of our sales team has provided an unlock code to you. Please continue dialog in the support ticket with Anthony if you still have a problem.

If pin 27 is at 12V when pin 56 is at 12V then that would indicate the FET is fried/damaged. It is pretty unusual since they have several protections and a huge current rating so it usually needs a pretty significant event to damage one - like the battery connected backwards or something. It's not impossible that it just failed on its own but it was at least working when it when through its production testing after several hours of burn-in testing. Anyhow, start by contacting [email protected] to get it back for inspection. The service team can usually determine the cause, if it doesnt appear to be related to a wiring issue then it will likely be a warranty repair. If there is strong evidence that it was caused by a wiring issue then they will let you know if there is going to be a repair cost.

My suspicion is more around ignition noise than an issue with the trigger as it is just coming on to full load around that RPM. Im assume if you lower boost it will rev cleanly to the RPM limit? Wasted spark ignition generates a lot of noise so all noise reduction considerations need to be well covered for wasted spark ignition at high boost. Does it have resistor spark plugs fitted? Are the HT leads OEM or a good quality performance brand and in good/new condition? What sparkplug gap is it running?

Contact [email protected] and they may be able to help. I’m going to delete all your other posts, as posting the same question in everyone else’s unrelated threads isn’t useful to anyone.

You cannot see or change any ecu settings if the ecu has been password protected.

You have a trigger issue as RPM shows zero when cranking. One issue is the pull-up on trigger 2 is off, so that likely needs to be enabled. And I would say your arming threshold on trigger 1 is probably too high, especially if it cranks a bit slow. Try it like below.

The main relay/pin 27 is controlled by a FET inside the ECU, you can think of a FET as a very efficient switch. The FET is controlled by the ignition switch/Pin 56. When the ignition switch is off, the FET is effectively "open", giving a circuit roughly equivalent to below. With the FET open you have no current flow through the circuit so you should have 12V at point a, b, c & d. If you measured voltage across the relay (c&d) you should have 0V (because same volatge on both sides). When the ignition switch is on, the FET has a very low resistance to ground, effectively pin 27 is switched to ground, something like below. If you measured voltages in this state you should have 0V at a, 0V at b, 12V at c, 12V at d. If you measure across the relay (b&c) you should measure 12V. The relay should be energised and the contacts pulled closed.

Ground one side of the switch and connect the other side to any spare DI. DI10 on pin 46 might be convenient. In the clutch switch settings, turn on the pull-up resistor, and set the active state to whichever setting gives you the correct active/inactive status. I guess it will be active low if they are a normally open switch.

Your deadtime at 14V is 0.74 Vs 0.9 in the K20 base map, and because you are using multipoint injection with 2 squirts per cycle, you have 2 deadtimes per cycle, so any error due to deadtime is doubled. Assuming the 0.9ms deadtime was realistic then you would be getting 0.32ms less fuel each cycle than the ECU thinks it is giving you. Your effective PW at idle is about 1ms so that is more than 30% error in terms of fuel delivered (sorry I had that wrong originally, it is more like 15% error, but still significant).

If the ECU was not grounding pin 27 to activate the main relay then you should see 12V on that pin. You should see 0V when the ecu is grounding it to activate the relay.

No, the table would not have been active with DI8 off. It is only the status display in PC Link that doesnt update after an input is turned off.

What is the voltage on Pin 56 and pin 27 with the ignition switch on?

How are you testing this? It will only be a very short pulse ~5ms, so you will need a noid light, or LED test light, or oscilloscope to be able to see the pulse. A multimeter or normal test lamp will not be fast enough to see an injector pulse. Very likely the injectors are seized after that amount of time.

I dont yet have any experience with the light version, but assuming it has the same CAN flexibility as the other models it can be done. You need to build a complete custom CAN template in RS3. If you attach your dash and ecu config I can take a look.

Just a quirk of the G4+ software. You can temporarily set it to gp input and turn the pull-up off, then set it back to off.

Attach your ADU file and I will take a look. Their default Link template looks correct to me, it uses ID1000 like you have set above. I have attached a basic ADU file with the CAN set up that should work. Link Generic Dash.adu

I dont think it is really needed, but G4+ set-up is the same: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/ecu/racing/LinkG4+Series_101_eng.pdf You only have to connect the 2 CAN wires and set the stream to Link - CAN BUS BASE in RS3. ECU setup is in the help file.

Click on the "Import Template" button and there is a Link CAN Lambda template in there.

Can you attach a log and tune, I've only used cruise control in a couple of quite similar cars so not a large exposure, but I did use it a lot in those and it worked really nicely, quite a bit better than any OEM cruise I have used, so Id like to see what is causing that, maybe its just a set up issue like too much derivative rather than something missing from the functionality?

You really need to get a tuner or someone experienced to diagnose your fuel pressure issue, you are going to fry your engine if that is a supply issue and you keep driving it like that. Luckily your tuner has done a decent job and set up fuel pressure compensation and engine protection for low fuel pressure so that has probably saved your engine, but that has a time delay etc so should only be used as a backstop, not relied upon. The "banging and shaking" that you are complaining about is the engine protection limiting the engine whenever fuel pressure is low. It is nothing to do with your injector seal or whatever, this is a loss of pressure due to an issue with the fuel supply, or possibly the pressure sensor/wiring failing.