Adamw

Do a short PC log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your tune here.

The plug-in ECU digital inputs are quoted as being capable of 500Hz max frequency, in your log you are up at around 1600Hz when the rear wheel speed starts to drop out. ABS sensors typically have too many teeth for the plug-in ecu digital inputs. If you are not using ABS you could possibly grind off half the teeth, or you can make/buy a small frequency divider.

Most engines would need the extra air that the idle valve bypasses for an effective cold start fast idle. You may get it good enough using idle ignition control. Set your normal hot idle ignition timing quite low, say 0-5deg, this will allow you to open the throttle a little more to maintain the normal idle speed. Then in the idle ign table, set one axis to ECT and run lots more advance at cold temperatures - say idle at about 20/25deg.

Unfortunately the unlock code needs to come from the dealer that sold the ECU.

It should be injector drive 8. I just noticed in the GTR base map this hasnt been assigned. You can test by setting inj 8 to "Test (on)".

In your log that you just attached it is the gear shift cut that is causing the limit. Go to gear shift control and set start shift mode to off and it should fix it.

You will need to do a bit more research on the TinyIO CAN format, it may or maynot be useable. I havent seen much documentation for it. Much of the Megasquirt CAN is a very odd old school request/respond CAN system similar to serial where the receiving device must send a data request to the device it wants data from. So for instance the ECU has to say to the lambda device "please send me current lambda", the lambda device then sends just one lambda sample back. A few milliseconds later the ECU then needs to again say "please send me current lambda" and so on...

Im not sure if you should be messing with ecu wiring in this case. The Atom has 4 Aux outputs, any of them can drive a tacho. The pinout showing where the aux pins are is in the help file under wiring information.

"Old truck engine" doesnt mean much to me, you need to give a bit more relevant detail... How many teeth on the crank wheel? Is it a reluctor or hall effect sensor? Does it have a sync tooth in the distributor? What size are the injectors? Is it a returnless fuel system or returned? What fuel pressure? What does it have to drive the coil, a HEI module, MSD or something else?

Try this, should be closer. V88V6File27Feb Bump fixed.pcl

Pin 17 & 18 are for the 3rd and 4th coils on some models that had factory direct spark such as the GTB legacy. So they are paired up with ign 1 & 2 to run in wasted spark. The vast majority dont have a factory IAT, some specific models do. Maybe an "RA" or similar special. There are some common things such as EGT, Lambda, oil & fuel press & wheel speeds & steering angle can come in over CAN and be used just like a native wired input. There are also 8 general purpose "CAN analog volt inputs" but these are not all that useful in a lot of cases as you cant rename them or give them meaningful units (you can still scale it to give some relevant number). An example to make it clearer might be say brake pressure for instance - you could bring this in over CAN and assign it to "CAN AN Volt 1" but instead of having it displayed/logged as "Front brake press = 600psi", it would be displayed/logged as "CAN AN V1 = 600.0V". I will attach the current list of CAN inputs that are available below. I've never looked at the tinyIO (megasquirt CAN is a bit odd), but another common one to look at is the analogX from autosport labs.

Assuming your G4 serial number is >10000, then the easiest option is to get a CANPCB cable and a CANF plug from a link dealer. Connection is then like so:

You would be best to set active drives to Inj1-2 and injection rate to 1 cycle for your setup, but these are not related to your "unstable idle".

It should allow the engine to start and run with minimal adjustment. You will need to configure all IO to match how you have wired it. You will likely need to adjust the master fuel to get it to run ok. You will need to check base timing once it is running. All of the other fundamentals such as dwell times, trigger setup etc shouldnt need touching. Download the manual from the BMW E36 plug-in page and go through the pre-start configuration and first time startup sections will cover most of it.

Yes that sounds about right. The most relevant test is with the engine off check that MAP reads the same as BAP. Im not convinced. In your latest log the lambda seems to drift higher and higher as time goes on but the inj pulsewidth is quite stable. Im not sure if I would trust it personally but if you do then it looks like your fuel table needs a bit of work as the lambda is a long way off target.

If you look at the correct channel it has a resolution of 1KPa.

Yes the G4+ CAN is quite flexible and can generally be used to get most OEM devices functioning. The tricky bit for you however is finding info on the CAN messages the pump needs to operate. Typically you would sniff a working car with the OEM ecu still in place to reverse engineer what is needed. If you have info on what messages are required then I can help you set the Link up to duplicate it.

There is nothing wrong with the MAP sensor, you need to look at the parameter “MAP”, not “AN 1 - MAP sensor V”, which is just the low res voltage. The oscillation is due to the misfire.

The main problem I see is something wrong with your TPS sensor, when the engine is off it is sitting at zero correctly, but as soon as the engine starts the TPS signal becomes very noisy so you have lots of acceleration enrichment being added - about 80% extra fuel. This could be a wiring problem or the sensor is faulty. I suspect if you unplug it it will run better. Also I suspect your Lambda is not working correctly, it looks kind of believable up to about 36 seconds, but then it jumps up very lean but the injector PW didnot change? So either that is a big air leak or the lambda is not working correctly.

I see a few things wrong there, can you attach your actual tune file.

Is it a crate motor? Which specific model? What does it have for manifold, throttle body, ignition and fuel system?

Check that your ECU firmware is at least 5.6.6.3593, the AIM stream was only introduced in that version onwards. You can check my going to >help>ecu information>maincode firmware version. If not then do a firmware update. If firmware looks ok then please attach your .pclr and I'll take a quick look.

Can you attach the tune file as well. From a quick look I suspect some of the problem is your vehicle speed sensor is not working. Were you coasting up to a stop in the area where it stalled - or was the car already stationary for some time?

Yes a log will be needed to see if it is ecu related. Preferably a PC log with all parameters recorded. One thing I noticed - turn off gear shift control, for whatever reason that is assigned to DI6 which is your flex fuel sensor so that will probably activate randomly. In your ECU statistics there are 84 counts of "GP RPM Limit 1", but you dont have a GP limiter assigned in your current tune at all - so it seems someone hasnt reset those statistics since changing it. Can you reset those statistics before running it again.

That is usually the easiest option, although the ECU is happy to work with a ground or +12V signal and normally open or normally closed is fine. That is the 3rd setting down in the screenshot Simon attached. You can set it to zero if you like. The "arming time" setting is more commonly used when it is activated by a clutch switch, so you set it longer than a normal gear shift takes so it doesnt activate during a gearshift.