Adamw

A log may be more helpful, its hard to tell much from a map only. A couple of suggestions to get started: Turn gear shift control and over-run fuel cut off for now to eliminate those. On AN Volt 5 set the error low to 0 and the error high to 5.0 so the powersteer switch can work properly. Not important - but do the same on AN Volt 4 so the CE light isnt going all the time.

Switching to ground or +12V should work fine for a DI. What do you mean by "not registering"? Are you looking at the DI status in the runtimes screen? Was the pull-up turned off?

Can you now do another log of it cranking, if we dont get trigger errors after some extending cranking we might be winning.

You could do semi-sequential by wiring the injectors in the correct pairs to 3 drives. Semi-sequential may give a slightly smoother idle compared to multipoint group.

Yes those are smart coils, no ignitor needed. I think it is unlikely a "sheilding" problem as there is generally little electrical noise about at cranking speed. That sounds correct. Its a bit difficult to diagnose this with the limited info we have available. A scope capture of the triggers would make things much easier. Do you know anyone with an oscilloscope or perhaps someone with a G4+ ecu that they can plug in to do a triggerscope? Can you take a look at the runtimes screen (F12) triggers tab and tell us if both trigger 1 signal and trigger 2 signal turn green and say yes when cranking. See screenshot below. Can you also attach your latest map so I can take a look at the current settings.

I drew this circuit for someone the other day. I havent tested it myself with a turbospeed sensor so no guarantees but I have used a similar circuit to divide a wheel speed frequency down. Over here you can buy the 4024 binary counter for about $1.50 from Jaycar so I assume they should be easy to find anywhere.

Unfortunately your log has very few channels logged. Can you do another cranking log using the PC logger as my earlier video shows. Can you also try bumping the master fuel up to about 10/12ms and opening the throttle a little to see if more air and fuel helps.

Here is one way you can do a launch limiter with the Atom. Use a GP RPM Limit. Set one axis of the GP limit table to the DI that has your launch switch connected (0 means switch off, 1 means switch is on). In this example you can see the limit is 10000RPM when the switch is off and 4000RPM with the switch on. You can use the same strategy to add fuel or retard ignition using 4D fuel and ignition tables.

A hall effect sensor typically just switches to ground. It wont "output" anything. In that video he is measuring the wires coming from the ECU, not the sensor. So the 5V you see on his meter is coming from the ECU. This is the "pull-up". Our ECU's DI pull-up is 12V but that doesnt matter it will still work. This is why you normally need the pull-up resistor turned on for a hall sensor.

You may have an option at the bottom of your editing screen like below (I may have different privledges to you so Im not sure). Otherwise if you dont have that option you can share it using google drive/onedrive/dropbox/etc.

Did you try it with the DI pull up both on and off? Can you do a short log and attach that and your map.

No it wont work as you propose, these need closed loop control to work. You will need a throttle kicker/jacker or bypass solenoid.

Im not sure if you are understanding how the knk i-trim table works. If the "clear i-trim table" is set to ECU power on (this is the suggested option for most users), that table should be all zeros. Only if the ecu detects knock and has to retard ignition then it will "write" how much retard it applied to stop knock into the relevant cell in the knk i-trim table. So it should only ever at worst have small numbers in a few cells where knock was detected (<5), and they will be zeroed everytime you power on. I dont know how your original table got messed up but it is not correct to have big numbers in it like that. It looks like someone imported the ignition table in or something.

I had another thought when you are back on to it. Can you confirm what you are using for a coil/ignitor? From memory the Omex has built-in coil drivers whereas our ECU's dont and will need an external ignitor or coil with built-in ignitor.

The USB port for the laptop would normally be the one fitted in the top of the case with the red o-ring as pictured below - unless someone has messed around inside. I would expect the extra one that you say is "coming from inside" is probably the dash connection.

Yeah sorry, I done that spreadsheet about 10 years ago and have obviously made a mistake in one of the formulas for end of injection somewhere. I dont really have time or interest in fixing it right now. You will have to get your calculator out...

Yep, my normal hours are 1PM - 9PM NZ time. You can usually get me via the live chat widget on the Linkecu.com webpage.

Ok, Im not sure if I have got this right since you mentioned both pressure and temperature, but here is what the logic would look like for the oil temp warning. The example assumes my oil temp sensor is connected to AN Temp 3. If you want the same lamp to warn for pressure as well then we can stack a virtual aux onto it to get more activation conditions. Sorry, still not sure what you want here. So you are just sending a constant DC to reduce voltage? It just turns on at a single RPM? I thought it was a PWM controlled multi colour shift light module or something?

Its a bit of an unknown. Our factory wiring diagram shows a fairly conventional relay connected to pin N3/E3 (ign 5). However looking at our drawings/notes for the Altezza it seems our Altezza test car didnt have anything connected to this pin but I assume the fuel pump still worked. No, irrelevant, Aux 8 is fine.

It should work once you change sync mode to Cam pulse. If not please attach a log of it cranking.

I just checked, the link to the PDF manual in the post you linked to above still works, you just need to be logged in to access it. Note all the same info is in the PC Link help file. This is just a PDF version.

Please PM me the dealers name, I can get our sales team to contact them if you are having trouble.

Pin A4 goes to one of the pins on the spill valve. The other pins goes to ign switched +12V. From the GDI specific wiring info in the help file:

So if you manually ground that aux 8 wire, does the pump run? From what I can see in the Altezza info it looks like the fuel pump is controlled via BEAN in the model.

Can you link to the post you are talking about?