Adamw

I cant see how this is meant to work if your drawing above is correct. Whenever the clutch switch is closed, pin C32 will be connected directly to 12V, it does not give any indication of what is happening at the starter...

Ignore that, it is just a default value, the ECU wont use it unless it is in multifuel mode with blend tables setup etc. I assumed you had more than 1 injector per cylinder when I originally looked? If you only have 1 injector per cylinder then it should be set to multi-point group and you will also what to set active drives to 1-4.

Aux 5/6/7/8/ are only required for stepper motor type idle valves, your engine has a solenoid type idle valve so it can be connected to any aux, it is connected to Aux 2 in the RX7 plug-in's and is already set up correctly in the basemap. The aux output status in the runtimes is only valid for on/off type signals, not stepper or PWM type signals. If there is a problem with the OMP there will be red text across the top of your screen and the Engine will be limited to 2000RPM. You can confirm it is working by watching that the oil pump position (AN 2) follows the target commanded in the "Rotary oiler" table as per my pic below. Temporarily change the value in the table and check that the position moves to that new target. For idle control, it just sounds like it needs to be tuned.

Yes, nothing special required here, the only setting you will need to change in the ECU is the dwell table to match the new coils.

Hi Peter, Sorry I forgot to get back to you on this one for a couple of days. I think since it loses comms with the engine off we can rule out electrical interference and concentrate more on the Seriallink/USB adapter. Im my experience the Seriallink is generally robust/reliable but the USB>serial adapters are pretty flaky, so my suspicions are still leaning more towards the USB adapter. However, I know you have said you have already tried another USB>serial adapter. If you are in NZ I might be able to lend you my serial link & possibly a USB adapter to try.

The wiring and set up is basically the same as our old one. The wire colours may have changed from this diagram below but it will show you how it is connected to the ECU.

Yes Pin 7 is normally used to ground the trigger sensors and the shield for them. So 4 ground wires would all be spliced together to this pin.

That appears to be a DC servo motor, our ecu's dont have any way to control that directly. There may be 3rd party controllers that would take a PWM from an aux output to control it but it is not something i have come across before.

Yes that is the correct setting to switch off fuel. The oil temp is just the default value since there is no oil temp sensor connected in that car (some gtr's have oil temp gauge but it is not connected to the ECU).

Can you do a pc log of a short drive, 5 minutes or so will be fine. It sounds like your most likely reason will be there is a small error some where causing one of the error accumulators to count up. These will only cause the system to shut down once they reach 100 so it will only be certain types of driving or actions that cause it. A short log should give us some clues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Try attached, I have done this for someone previously so only tested some of it. This will give you the 4 wheel speeds, power steer should work as well as speedo, tacho & temp gauge. rx8 with CAN.pclr

So did you check it with a timing light while cranking? Note it should be conected to an analog input, not digital right? Since it is a switch you will also have to set your error high to 5.0 and error low to 0.0 for it to work.

Yes it is recommended to use the latest G4+ software and install the latest G4+ firmware. There are a few reports of this lagging problem floating around but we havent got to the bottom of it yet. Mostly we have had it reported with fairly modern/powerful laptops using intel graphics and USB3 but havent been able to reproduce it in house. Some users have claimed improvements by installing the oldest Intel driver they can find, others have said changing to a USB2 port fixed it.

You are right the odd TPS reading wont stop it from running. The voltage on analog 2 is sitting near zero volts so that may suggest there is a wiring problem (or is it still a switch type?). Trigger looks like it is happy. Did you check the base timing with a timing light? With 1 tooth per TDC mode you have to rotate the distributor to adjust the base timing. Otherwise, to make broad fueling changes in modelled mode I normally just adjust the engine capacity setting rather than mess with the VE table. Make big changes like +/-50% normally gives you a good clue whether your issue is fuel related or elsewhere.

I suspect you will need a very small control range for that type of effect, try 50RPM. I would also suggest you turn off the hard limit to stop it interfering as you experiment with settings. This is normal, a lambda probe measures oxygen content. If you cut fuel or ignition then there is no combustion so your engine is just pumping oxygen down the exhaust.

Trigger 1 is the primary sensor (usually crank), Trigger 2 is the sync sensor (cam), so yes these are your CPK+ & CMP+. The pins labelled "Gnd out" and "Sheild/Gnd", are both sensor grounds and can be used interchangeably. Typically for triggers we splice the sheilds and the two trigger grounds together and connect them all to the shield/gnd pin that is right next to the trigger pins. As for the trigger offset question, the "reference tooth" that the offset is measured from is the tooth that comes immediately after the gap. So if the centre of your gap is 81.5BTDC then the reference tooth is probably about 71.5BTDC. This would translate to a trigger offset of -71.5 in Link language. Or possibly 360deg later (288.5) depending when your cam tooth passes the sensor. Im not sure what limitations the MS had in terms of gap position but with Link there is no limitation, you can have it wherever you like. However it is generally best to have the gap outside of the area your spark normally occurs (say 0-40BTDC) as when there is no tooth there the ECU has slightly less info to predict engine position as accurately.

We dont do complete looms sorry. I dont know of any UK vendors doing 1JZ looms but there may well be some. 3 Vendors that I do know that offer them: https://www.wiringspecialties.com/1junwihapr.html http://panicwire.com/ https://www.boomslang.com/link-g4.php

Most of it looks ballpark ok. The main setting that is not correct is the frequency on Aux 6, most ford valves like about 120Hz.

Please attach a map and short log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Yes, sounds logical to me. You are correct that the ignition map will likely be quite different between carburettors and injection so no point wasting time fully mapping ign for the carbs.

I dont see any reason why 5 outputs connected to the same lamp wouldnt work, but there are possibly easier options. I think you could get just one aux do 3 or 4 different gear RPM thresholds using virtual auxes. Or, if you have a speed sensor connected so the ECU can calculate gear then you could just use a PWM 3D table, RPM Vs Gear to do it.

Yes 1 tooth per TDC would be the best mode for this set up. Make sure trigger 2 sync mode is set to none after that change. With 1 tooth per TDC mode you will need lots of dwell at cranking speed. Set the dwell table like my example below. Also lower your trigger 1 arming threshold to match example below. Can you make those changes then confirm you have a realistic RPM displayed and a spark when cranking.

Do you have the spark edge set to "falling" in the ignition setup menu?

I've moved your post to the G1 section. Does it only disconnect with the engine running or will it disconnect after a short time regardless of engine running or not?