Adamw

Its job is to determine the temp of the air entering the cylinder, so in thoery, the closer to the port the better. But it is often difficult to mount it there so more commonly somewhere near the throttle body. Definitely not on the induction side - that would only work on an engine using MAF.

No MAF is not needed. Cruise control will work. The cruise control isnt setup/tuned in our basemap so you will have a little work to do there but all necessary hardware is connected - wheel speeds, cruise switches, clutch and brake switches etc. For wideband you can use the CAN-lambda device or a 3rd party analog device if you wish. For connection the TT plug-in already has a CAN port on the side of the case so you wont need the CANPCB - just the CANF. You will need a 120ohn resistor at the Lambda end of the CAN bus wires also. Only the LSU4.9 is supported. It is included with it.

Hi Brad, E-throttle support was added about a year ago. Bottom board PCB revision number V1.5 and above (we are up to V1.8 now) have E-throttle pins available on the Expansion connectors. I cant give you a serial number when the change occurred but a quick way to tell is look at the Exp connector and if Aux 9 & 10 are present you have an E-throttle capable ecu. This note under E-throttle Aux set-up should have made it reasonably clear: The main thing that is very confusing to new users is that in the software you have Aux 4 and Aux 9 assigned, yet on the Exp connector you have Aux 9 and Aux 10 to connect to your motor. This confusion is well "hidden" in our wirein ECUs but cannot be in the plugins without messing up other functions so we just have to learn to live with the confusing labelling. Basically Aux 4 and 9 share some electronic resources so they are mutually exclusive. Aux 4 in the software controls the Aux 9 pin on the Exp connector. Aux 9 in the software controls Aux 10 pin on the exp connector. Clear as mud...

Ok so the ECU is reporting the voltage it is being supplied correctly. So now you just need to fix the car so that it supplies the correct voltage... The first thing I would try is swap out the ECCS relay for known good or new one. They are probably the most common issue we see on Skylines.

You need to do it with the ECU still connected. Poke something like a paper clip in through where the wire enters into the connector. This is often called "back probing". Watch this video from about 1:30 to see the technique. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2ST8w_0w-Q

EXP 1, pin 4 looks like the one you need - this is analog volt input 6. Also sensor ground is on pin 2 if the AEM device has a separate signal/analog ground. I dont know how pin numbering is done on the JST connector (Riva done all documentation for these ecus) so if you dont have a pinout in your documentation then you are going to have to cut the heat shrink off the back of the connector so you can see the wire colours. AN Volt 6 should be a white wire and the Ground should be a green wire.

Our ECU will not control the factory wideband sensors. You will have to fit an external wideband controller. I would suggest you go MAF-less right from the start as we dont support MAF well - there is no supplied calibration curve for the factory MAF sensor for instance. You will need to connect the ECU's builtin MAP sensor to the manifold. The factory "post turbo pressure" sensor is connected to the ECU and can be logged but it is not much good for anything else.

49 & 50 are these two I think: Is that where you have been testing?

Correct.

Correct - I know it is confusing. Note you also need to have a spare aux output assigned to "E-throttle relay" (the aux doesnt actually need to be connected to anything - just needs to be assigned in the software).

Hi David, If you want to email me your map that gives the stumble I will run it on the bench here with a scope connected to an injector output and see if I can capture if anything odd is happening. It might be a couple of days before I get to it.

The GTS/GTR plug-in has 2 expansion connectors. Get one expansion loom and plug it into the "Expansion connector 1". Splice the ground wire into 3 - 1 goes to one side of the temp sensor, then one to the ground pin on each press sensor. Splice the 5V into 2 - and run 1 to the 5V pin on each press sensor. The press sensor signal pins get connected to Volt 8 and Volt 2. The remaining temp sensor pin gets connected to either temp 3 or 4 wire. For the trigger you can most likely just cut the old CAS plug off and run wires from there to the new trigger sensors.

You are correct. I just tested this on the bench. The "IC Spray (status)" parameter doesnot display correctly. The spray function works ok and my ignition drive (AI6) is switching on/off as commanded, just the "IC Spray" status always stays off. I will get it added to the fix-it list.

Sorry for the slow reply. We dont allow cyclic idle to be enabled when engine type is "Rotary". This is because the unique cutting sequence that a rotary requires will not allow cyclic idle to work as intended.

That seems pretty odd. The most common scenario that would fry a coil would be either excessive dwell or the spark edge set wrong. The first thing to check is that these settings in your map match the example below (assuming your coils are stock): Spark Edge should be falling: Dwell should look similar to this:

I cant see an easy way to do exactly what you ask. Also unless you have an analog gear position sensor then Gear detection doesnt work when the clutch is depressed so maybe that is not the best solution. How about something like this: Only activate when clutch is depressed and front wheel speed has been below 5kmh for more than 5seconds for instance?

What sort of launch control do you want? Just a fixed RPM limit off the line or a 2D/3D speed based launch. Is the car FWD or RWD?

Replying from a cell phone so might be wrong but it looks like you are above the RPM lockout also.

There is no direct way to do this.

Are you on the latest firmware?

Try something like below. After car is stationary for more than 5seconds launch control will activate.

50 & 59 should give us an idea. So when you connect your mulitmeter across 50 & 59, you get 13.5V, what was the voltage showing in VTS at the time?

Then all you need to do is adjust the calibration number on the DI settings.

This is probably already be possible. Can you explain the problem better... Is the speed displayed wrong in PC link or elsewhere? Where is the speed signal coming from? VSS or CAN bus?