Adamw

I've seen this before with the bosch throttles, im not sure if it is a "stiction" issue or damage to the gears or something. I have an idea that adding some deadband into the throttle control loop might help but I just haven't had a car that exhibits the problem to experiment with. You can see the problem in the pic below, just to the left of where my yellow cursor is the throttle position was sitting bang on target and the throttle motor needed -20%DC to hold it there, the idle control then reduces the target position by 0.1% since the idle speed was a little above target, so the ecu starts winding in more motor DC trying to get the throttle to move, but it seems to be "stuck", It finally does move when DC gets down to -40% - but it is very odd the ecu had to double the motor torque to get it to move just 0.1%! The target then reduces another 0.1%, this time the DC gets down to -45% DC, then the throttle suddenly "breaks free" and snaps closed way more than intended.

The fuel table represents % volumetric efficiency. Typical would be 50-60% at idle, 100-120% at peak torque. 70-80% at idle and 150% at WOT suggests the engine is receiving less fuel than the ecu is calculating. Most of your basic setup looks ok now, the injector deadtime is a bit longer than typical for an EV14 based injector, generally they are less than 1ms at 14V, but making that smaller is only going to make things worse so I dont think that is the major problem at this time. What fuel is being used? What fluid is being used to test the injector flow?

Is DI6 showing ON/Off when you switch AC on/off? Does the AC clutch click if you set Aux 3 to "Test (On)"?

Yeah you are right, Im 99% sure your car would have a OBD2B ecu, so wouldnt be compatible with our HC96X. Im not sure how we ended up with it being listed as compatible on the ecu webpage but I will get that fixed up. The factory OBD2 socket uses K-Line, Link only supports OBD2 data via CAN bus, which uses different pins in the obd2 socket so you would need to run two new wires from the ECU to the CAN pins in the OBD2 plug. And be aware that OBD2 functionality is limited to basic data streaming of common variables and clearing codes etc, our ecu's wont respond to any of the emissions related queries such as IM readiness that are heavily legislated.

We dont have an ecu for the Hitachi models, the pinout is completely different to the denso ecu.

You are on very old firmware so update to the latest and set the CAN mode to R50-53 mini. If it doesnt work with that then you likely have a wiring issue.

The serial data stream only has raw voltages in it. You will need to use a CAN connection to realdash rather than serial.

When you last saved that map the MAP was matching your BAP and the voltage on AN Volt 3 also matches the reported pressure.

Yes, you need the 5V supply, there should be 4 wires. Be aware some of the mating Chinese connectors have the pins numbered differently to the sensor so make sure you confirm that you are looking at the right pin with the sensor datasheet. The pressure side you need to use a linear cal, for the temp side use Std Bosch NTC. Have you done the APS calibration? Do the voltages on both AN Volt inputs move when you press the pedal? 1000Kpa/ (150psi) Ti Sensor.

Attach your tune

There are a few issues in your map but I dont think any would be significant enough to explain your need for 400% longer injector PW than expected. Your fuel press sensor calibration is wrong "7 Bar" is a MAP sensor cal. Your deadtime table has fuel pressure on the Y axis, it should be differential fuel pressure. IAT trim table should be off. 4D fuel table should be off. Does the MAP sensor read the same as BAP with the engine off? Most G4X plug-ins have a 7Bar MAP sensor but yours is set to 4Bar. What is the resistance of the injector? What brand is the injector?

Yes that will be fine, the stock nissan one is fine also.

A few suggestions: The datasheet I looked at for deatsch werks 1000cc honda injector states the flow rate (slope) at 300kpa is 923cc. So this is what you would normally enter in the "injector setup" in the ecu. However, that is likely tested with a "gasoline substitute", so the real flow with ethanol will actually be less than the rated flow. Typically about 10% less so I would use 830cc @ 300kpa. You are hitting 114% injector duty cycle in your log so you need to increase fuel press or reduce boost. Your fuel temp is showing 174°C in your log so that will upset things quite a bit. Change DI3 active edge to rising and confirm temp then reads something more realistic. Turn off IAT trim, this is already handled by charge temp in modelled mode. Both your accel fuel tables are zeroed out. Your fuel density and density temp coefficient are using E100 values, If you are intending to run only E85, then calculate the correct value 85% of the way between petrol density and ethanol density.

What sensors do you have and how are they connected to the ecu or dash? Can you attach a copy of your ecu and dash configs.

Try it at say 25ms. Or to rule out fuel completely you can give it a spray of starter fluid, if it fires with that then that confirms your issue is fuel, if it still doest fire then that means the issue is spark or timing.

The NB2 has the 4pin CAN connector which is designed for powering CAN devices up to 3A. You can connect the AEM direct to 12V and gnd in the CAN socket.

Yeah, something is wrong with your cam sensor signal. During initial cranking, its signal stays low for a long time before it starts to work. In the pic below you can see it is low for nearly 2 whole crank revolutions initially, then on the next cycle it starts working correctly and is only low for about 50deg. So at the moment you will only be syncing on the correct phase just by luck. Approx 50% of start attempts it will sync on the wrong phase and wont start. You could try changing trig 2 edge to rising as it looks like that is possibly occurring in the correct location on both scopes, not enough data to say that is true everytime though. You may need to change offset by 360 if it doesnt start at all after doing this. I dont think it is a problem with battery voltage, most of these common industrial type sensors will work down to about 5V. Does the cam sensor get its power from the same source as the crank sensor?

I did some more work on this yesterday. I have confirmed the fuel consumption scaling incorrect by a factor of about 1.7 - so that seems like most of your error. I can confirm the speed calibration is a tiny bit off too, but not 15%, more like 3%. The factory speedo actually reads significantly higher than the real speed (about 15% in our car). Validated against both GPS and the reported speed on the factory bus with a techstream diagnostic tool. I can confirm two of the cruise indicator bits are missing in the current firmware, but I only have confirmed data for two states "enabled" and "set", I didnt know there was a green and orange lamp for "enabled" at the time. So I can dig a bit deeper, can you give a quick explanation of what the green and orange states represent with the factory ecu - I assume green means "On and ready" and orange means "On but conditions not met"

What ECU do you have?

No, only USDM up to 2010 is supported. In 2011 the US market cars changed to a completely different pinout. We have only just started designing an ecu for the later USDM cars but it is still a while off.

Yeah there is definitely some issue with that trigger, every 4th tooth on trigger 1 is lower voltage and distorted waveform compared to the others. I've never personally seen one of these OBD0 distributors, do they have the 4 tooth wheel right in the bottom under the 16tooth? If it does it seems that is possibly interfering somehow - whether it is via a shared ground or some magnetic effect im not sure. Assuming it does have the 4 tooth wheel in there, the first thing I would try is snipping the wires off that bottom sensor.

Its pretty common for them to get stuck when they have been sitting around for a while without proper flushing before storage. Often you can get them unstuck by giving them short bursts of 12V with a couple of wires straight from the battery and a few gentle bangs with a hammer etc at the same time.

Did you do this yet? I think your spikes of low bat voltage are probably from kick back, I would turn off the idle ign control for now as that is randomly kicking in during cranking. I would also drain the tank and put some standard petrol in it, trying to do first startup with a cold engine on e85 with an untuned map is only making life more difficult.

Yes, all looks ok in the log. Possibly not enough fuel as I mentioned earlier. Did you try increasing master fuel? But the comment that still raises questions for me is "When I open the itbs a little bit the cranking speed drops off and the engine will stop turning". I can imagine if the throttles were totally sealed shut so there was very little airflow, then opening the throttle would increase cyl pressure and slow cranking down a little, but it is not usually significant and it certainly should stop the engine turning. What do you mean by "slow down" - is it sudden/abrupt pulses like a "kickback", or is it generally just cranking slower anytime the throttle is opened?

You will need a wideband to understand if the mixture is correct or not. In the meantime you can try increasing and decreasing the master fuel value to see if the running improves in either direction.