Adamw

It is a "V4" G1.  The trigger sub board is for the early subaru EJ20 trigger which has 6 teeth on the crank and 7 teeth on the cam.  Im pretty sure all the EJ25's have a different 36-2-2-2 on the crank and 3 tooth cam so this wont work (im not 100% sure of that, I have really only seen EJ25 turbo engines). 
It can be tuned with a laptop but you will need a seriallink device to communicate with it. 
You will find a user manual for it in the G1 forum section.  
Will only work with this circled crank/cam wheel:
 

It was the weekend.  We are 1 day ahead of most countries down here.  I still try to answer most basic forum posts in my own time from home but cant do a lot of proper testing while not at work.
This morning I have tested your map with the new firmware on the bench extensively, simulating the same operating conditions that your logs show.  I duplicated several different operating conditions for completeness but done the bulk of my testing at 4400RPM, 160kpa MAP, 13.8V, 35IAT, 85ECT, which is about where you see the biggest lambda difference in all your logs. 
Monitoring all 4 injector outputs against the trigger signal for timing using a logic analyzer.  After more than 50 runs/ign off/restarts I always have exact same injector pulsewidth and correct injector timing every test.  The PW that the ECU is commanding matches what Im measuring on the analyzer and also matches what I get using a manual calculation.  
So when the Injector PW and injector timing is correct and the same every test I can not see any other way the ecu can influence Lambda.   We can only conclude the lambda difference is from an external influence.  Perhaps an intermittent misfire on one cylinder or some temperature related change in the injector.   
 

Typically if idle ign is set up well it will take care of instantaneous load changes much better than the idle valve.  
However if you want to vary idle position based on electrical load, then you could either;
use the "GP Idle Source" function to add an offset and/or increase target when the load goes above a certain value (set up a GP Output/virtual aux to specify the conditions). Second option is just to put electrical load on the Y axis of your idle base position and Idle target tables.    

G4X is more flexible.  Below is all you need to do in G4X if you want an on/off aux controlled by a table:  0.0 where you want the cam off, 1.0 where you want the cam on.

It is not set up to be used in our base map.  Most performance users would fit a wideband instead.  But if the car is only a basic road car some may want to continue to use the narrowband for catalytic convertor function.

On the Supra ECU Inj 8 output and DI2 input have extra hardware attached so cant be used for their normal functions, but everything else is ok.  
Another option you may want to consider is what we call a "bottom board swap", you can return the ecu to link, we will remove the supra board and replace with an RX7 board.  You will have to contact tech support for a cost on that as im a bit out of date on that but it is usually very cost effective - about $300NZD.  Lots less work than rewiring the car.  

You might have to fit the capacitor to the lambda power supply or move the power wire as it is dropping out during cranking (maybe it is powered from an ACC circuit that powers off during cranking?).  It also throws an error 16 during heating which usually means its not happy with the power supply.  
I suspect there is not enough fuel when hot.  As soon as the engine fires you have no post start enrichment and the injector PW drops very low - around 0.44ms. The injectors will be very erratic at that - if they are even opening at all.    
Try the changes in orange below.  Post start may need to be even higher.  The Min Eff PW may make it idle too rich but try it and see.  

Best to use google drive or one drive etc.  You can remove old attachments from old posts  but then they arent there for anyone in the future that has a similar question/problem.  
The reason the allowance is quite tight is forum hosts change based on number of vistors to the site and the total data storage.  And the data part is expensive.  So we give each user enough allowance to get started and learn their way around etc, then when they need more they can use one of the many other sharing options.

I would say the most likely cause is the minimum voltage after the first tooth (green line) creeps up as RPM increases until it no longer crosses zero.  
I like your idea with welding the extra metal into the gap, but I suspect due it being a separate piece of metal the ferromagnetism doesnt work like a single piece of iron.   I have seen weld repaired teeth completely mess up the signal.
To bring the green line down lower in voltage what we need to do is reduce the maximum voltage as the first tooth is approaching the sensor (yellow line). 
You could try increasing air gap which will lower all voltages.  I have doubts whether this will help much. You could try adding a resistor inline (series) with the trigger 1 wire.  You will need to experiment with resistance value but I would say 3K-10K would be what I expect would help the most. You could try adding a resistor across the sensor +/- wires to apply some load.   Again resistance value will need some experimentation but it will be lower in this case, more like 300ohm at a guess. Another option, you may be able to drill out the center of the OEM sensor and screw a hall sensor into it.  Something like ZF GS100702 usually work ok with small 60-2 teeth (they need a stronger pull up resistor for high tooth count).  
 

The tooth should ideally be about the same length as the pole diameter - up to about 1.5X the dia is generally ok.  The pole diameter is shown in the pic below.  The length of the gaps do not matter.  

A more detailed explanation is here:  
 
With a missing tooth crank wheel and sync mode set to Cam Pulse 1X, all the ecu does is checks if it saw a cam edge in the last crank rotation or not.  Whether it saw a tooth or not it can determine which phase it is on from that.   
 

If its a NA engine then yes TP on the fuel table and BAP as the load equation source will be the best option for fueling.  
However that is probably not going to help much, a bridgeport "jerking" is nothing out of the ordinary...  With the new window cut into the combustion chamber this means the intake port never closes, usually the main port is significantly opened up and the exhaust port is raised at the same time, so you have massive overlap, usually coupled with a very low mass flywheel - so the same reason it pulses at idle is the reason it pulses when driving at low RPM.  Even stock engines do the overun surge which is why they had fluid coupling flywheels etc on the luxury models.  
You may be able to tame it a little by running quite retarded ign timing in the RPM range it occurs, but you need to watch EGT as well. 

Its still a long way off target in some areas though, I wouldnt really call that "working as expected", not even really acceptable.  
You can use the file compare function to see the difference between the two maps.  Still needs PID tuning.  

On the Supra ECU Inj 8 output and DI2 input have extra hardware attached so cant be used for their normal functions, but everything else is ok.  
Another option you may want to consider is what we call a "bottom board swap", you can return the ecu to link, we will remove the supra board and replace with an RX7 board.  You will have to contact tech support for a cost on that as im a bit out of date on that but it is usually very cost effective - about $300NZD.  Lots less work than rewiring the car.  

The manual is correct, Aux 1 goes to 106 & 113, it is used for the fuel pump controller in GTR's and VTC in RB25 models.  No cars have both devices hence the same aux can be used.
Aux 5 is not connected.  
You have Ign 7 & 8 and Aux 11 on the expansion loom you can use, or possibly aux 2 is free on the main header - GTS dont normally have fuel pump speed control.  

This is due to Bank 1 intake cam bouncing around, bank 2 isnt great either but is probably usable.  I suspect you are going to need to use the custom PID option to get better control.  Possibly oil is a different viscosity to recommended or something.  

We do not currently have a solution to control the VVL on this engine.  

We dont currently have any control strategy for a DC Motor with position control (with the exception of E-throttle).  I believe the VQ37 originally had its own standalone controller for the VVL that communicated with the engine ecu via CAN bus.  However I have no info on the CAN messages for that unit. 
I suspect if you could reverse engineer the CAN messages we could probably control it, but our ecu's could not currently control it with a direct connection to the motor.     

I generally prefer VR on crank, since it it is more precise, more reliable, and has a better signal to noise ratio as engine speed increases.  

And if I have the choice I go for hall on the cam. They output a signal at lower speeds so sync can be determined sooner (cam is 1/2 speed of crank and VR output is relative to tooth speed) and since you are only using it for phase identification the precision or slow rise/fall time doesn’t matter.  

The important thing is to consider target design - VR needs teeth short & sharp, about the same size as the sensor pole and a special design in the missing tooth area.  Hall typically wants wide/long teeth with deeper cutouts between teeth.

 

Yes that is fine.  Any 12V source that is only live when ignition is on.  

If you wire whichever bulb you want to use to a spare aux output on the ecu then you can control it.  None of them are connected to the ecu in stock form.  

yep that would work.

Yes, we have been discussing this with GaugeArt over the last couple of days and have come up with a plan.  Your EGT's will be covered and quite a few other GP channels to allow more flexibility for the less common requests in future.  Not sure how long their end will take, I think our end shouldnt be too bad.  

Yeah looks ok as a starting point.  The spikes in lambda are overrun fuel cut.  

If you are on recent firmware, go to lambda 1 settings and set "Run When Stalled" to ON, it will then start before starting the engine.  Set it back to off after testing as it can shorten sensor life with that enabled.  

You can also get thermistors that work to higher temps but they are just much less common.  We used to make a little one which was good to 200°C at my old work:  https://msel.co.nz/msel-m6-stainless-temperature-sensor/  You could possibly fit something like this with a brass adapter.  I think I have seen some that work to 300C but cant remember where.  A thermocouple is an option but then you have the hassle of an amplifier as well.  
 
I suspect so, hard to know since they were late '80s or early '90s era cars but they werent particularly powerful and generally looked to be unmolested.
 
I dont use them very often, the few cases I have had a car with them fitted it as been for antilag safety.  My logic would say pre-turbine gives you the best picture of how the engine is working, and how far away from melting things you are.  Post turbine only really tells you how efficient the turbine is working - but you would need to know pre-turbine temp as well.