Adamw

Yeah Xtreme would be the ticket.  They all only have one E-throttle as far as I have seen.  

Many sensors such as fuel pressure, TPS, MAP need a 5V supply, you wont use that wire if you are only connecting a wideband.

The new firmware has much improved gear shift functionality with closed loop shaft speed matching and limiting during blip etc but there are a lot of new settings so will need to be tuned from scratch after you update.  It is a good improvement though so is worth doing when you can.  Make sure you have plenty of time when you choose to update - dont update the night before a race day!
I think in your log the actual gear cut is probably working correctly, but for some reason the logging rate is very slow so it has missed some of the shift detail.
You would really need to use ECU logging and record at a much higher rate to get a true picture of what is going on.  I normally use 500Hz on RPM, Cut %, gear shift status, Gear barrel voltage and lever force when tuning gear shift.  
In picture below, highlighted is the same shift that you have shown in your original picture.  Notice there is nearly 200ms between data points - this would easily miss the 118ms shift cut for 3rd gear.  

 

Can you attach the log file and tune.

If it fires and runs for only a few seconds that usually means there is not enough fuel, there is only enough to run when the extra crank enrichment fuel is present so as soon as that stops the engine stops.  Increase the master fuel value.  

No I wouldnt expect anything special is needed.  CDI ignition on methanol cars makes USB comms less reliable but Ive never had any issues with inductive ignition.  

It looks like it starts to go lean around the 6.5second mark in the log when the 130% crank enrichment turns off and you drop all the way back to only 20% post start enrichment.  
So I would double or triple the crank hold time and try the post start enrichment up around 40-50% in the 10C- 30C cells.

 

It should start and run with the offset in the base map - it just needs to be confirmed before putting it under any load.  

Start somewhere around 17ms then adjust up or down to make it happy once it is started.

It will need to be wired to an analog input and you will need to build a pull-up and filter circuit to slow the signal down so you dont just see the fuel sloshing around.

 
 

Do a PC log, it records everything.  

Thinking about this when I was writing up the task last night - cant you just log the status of whatever you have set for the table 2 activation?

Hi All,
The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update.  But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now.
FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension.  G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx.
Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share.
 
1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf

Fuel cut will not cause it to run lean - there is no combustion at all when you cut the fuel.  i.e a "20% fuel cut" doesnt mean you are removing 20% of the fuel, it means you are cutting 20% of the combustion events.  
Because fuel is injected and sitting in the intake port quite a bit before combustion, a fuel cut is not instant torque reduction - you still get a cycle at full power after activating the cut - similarly when the shift has finished and you want to restore power, you dont get any power for a full engine cycle after reactivating fuel.  This can make the shifts feel much slower - at least with motorsport gearboxes, I dont have any experience with road car shifts.  
Fuel cut is safer for some engines that have trouble with valve control or hydraulic valve lash control.
Fuel cut is quieter - generally no bangs. 
Correspondingly,  Ignition cut is much faster, but noisier, can cause issues with valve control, and potentially harder on lambda sensors etc.  I havent seen any issues with the turbo from ignition cut gear shifts.  
 

I think the initial cause was the trigger error which gave a large spike in RPM, the RPM limit then cut all fuel which stalled the engine.  
So the question is why did the headlights cause a trigger error...  Really the only common circuit between headlights and trigger sensors is the ground so it would suggest there is a bad or intermittently bad ground somewhere which causes headlight current to pass through the ecu ground at times.  

With ign off if you measure between the sensor ground pin and battery negative with an ohm meter you should see near 0ohm.  
 

Yeah looks like it.  @tbase I can give you a beta software with the new gearshift strategy if you want.  No help documentation done yet though.  

The trigger scopes both look ok.  I noticed in your map the trigger offset is still set to zero.  Have you checked ignition timing with a timing light?  With a distributor if the rotor phasing isnt correct the spark can jump to something inside the distributor rather than jumping to the correct post and this will cause an error.    

Start by doing at trigger scope at 2000 & 3000RPM.  
ECU Controls>Trigger scope.  Hold engine at 2000 then click capture.  Save the file.  Hold engine at 3000, click capture, save file.  
Attach those 2 files and a copy of your tune.  

You dont need to connect most stuff you dont need.  The important thing would be to make sure you use the correct pins for sensor ground and correct pins for the main power grounds.  It will be best to stick with the stock dumb coils, wired like factory. 
Important ones:
Ignition switch signal into pin 56. Pin 27 is the control from the ecu to the main relay (ECU grounds pin 27 when ign switch is on to enable the main relay). Main high current 12V supply from the main relay connects to pin 54

Since your engine has a trigger capable of 720deg sync, the ecu always know which cylinder is firing - even with a distributor.  So It checks for knock in the knock window for each cylinder after the cylinder has just fired.  If it hears knock in the knock window for cyl 2 after cylinder 2 just fired then it knows that the knock came from cyl 2.  Placement of the sensor doesnt matter, it will hear knock from all cylinders.  

You should have no analog inputs set to Lambda, turn AN 10 & 11 off.  

No it wont be the resistor, something is not set up right by the sound of it.  
Yes resistor should be after or at the connection to the WB2, but you will probably find it will work fine without one.  I know Haltech never use proper termination on their CAN bus.  

The activation conditions need to be true for the output to activate.  You have got the switch logic set to "Cond 1 ONLY", so to make it work for testing you need to set up Sw Parameter 1 and Sw Cond 1 to something that will return a true result.  Something like Batt voltage > 1V will do it.  
Later since you will only want the gauge to show a value when the engine is running you would change those conditions to something like RPM > 500.

Ok, I have found a setting that is labelled incorrectly.  The setting that is labelled "Cut Period", should actually be labelled "Max shift time", this setting is used to prevent say a failed gear shift switch from causing a gear shift from staying active forever.  So, set this to about 500-1000ms should solve your problem.