Vaughan

Loaded image of the current setup.

Only had a quick look:
Make sure your MAP is hooked up to your balance bar so that your differential fuel pressure is correct. Might want to consider changing AFR/Lambda target table, ignition tables, charge temp table and VVT target y axes to TPS. Knock tables are also still in MGP.

Those MRS pumps should work fine with just a "speedo out" aux or GP PWM.  They are hard to find over here now but when they used to be popular this was a pretty common setup.  

code 84 Aux9/10 E-Throttle IC Over Temperature / Under Voltage isn't just over temperature, it can also be triggered by undervoltage. I occasionally see it when I have to crank for too long and pump the throttle which would most likely be an under voltage condition.

Hey Just wanted to post up and share my evo 9 for anyone who is interested. Fully built by me to my custom spec. Engine is a true 2.1l at 2100.5cc. Not rounded up or down. Just installed a Link g4x plug and play ecu so I’m learning how to get everything set up properly so this vehicle runs as good as it should!  If anyone has any questions or interest in the car, parts, setup, or engine please feel free to ask. 

An Alternator Control function has been made and should be available in the next major release version.

Given that it is all on the crank and assuming the missing tooth is placed midway between ignition events I don't see any reason to use trigger 2 when you can use a multitooth/missing pattern.

IMG_0808.MOV

Yeah Xtreme would be the ticket.  They all only have one E-throttle as far as I have seen.  

wheel speed should be coming in over CAN but a quick look at your log show's nothing on CAN Freq 1 input, do the engine fans work properly? as in you can change the temperature values to force them on and off?

To figure out base timing on a new setup I recommend removing all of the coils and spark plugs except cyl 1 and then use a piece of plug wire or a spark tester to plug the coil to an then plug onto the spark plug.  Disable injectors (unplug them) and crank with trigger scope and timing light.  If someone cranks while in trigger setup and timing fixed you should see the timing light flashing at the same value if your triggers are correct.  Also check your trigger scope versus the cranking and you'll notice with all the plugs out except cyl 1 that the spacing on the crank trigger teeth will be close together except when building pressure in cyl 1 which is when you should be about to fire.  You can count teeth between this signal and the cam sync signal to see if the offset seems close or if it's one crank revolution off as you should only see the wider spaced teeth in trig 1 once per 2 crank revolutions.  In your scope it looks like your trig 2 falling edge is about in line with the 25th tooth from the gap on your trig 1.  Your sync tooth is listed as tooth 16 and your offset is -5 so that does seem a bit far off.
Your dwell times are pretty high for those coils as well - you want to be around 1.5-2ms at 12v and higher.  I'm not sure what you set your ethrottle minimum to but you shouldn't need much more than 5% to idle and start typically.  If you set your minimum to zero and manipulate the throttle when trying to start it may allow you to figure out what exact percent throttle you need to obtain desirable starting condition and idle speed.  Of course fueling needs to be in the ballpark for this to work.
Small thing: your engine displacement is listed as 2200cc - but with a .5mm overbore 5s block (87.5mm bore) and 91mm stroke crank - your displacement is 2189cc (rounding).  

Small update, found tooth after gap broken off. Replacing the crank gear right now and hopefully get to see some action

Small suggestion: Alternator control to me would seem more at home in the chassis and body rather than aux outputs?  Maybe it's just me but that's the first place I looked for it.

Pin 1 +5v
Pin 2 signal out to Ecu An Volt
Pin 3 signal in
Pin 4 ground

Oh! That my wrong, thank you so much.

I can upload a tune tomorrow 

That's probably an @Adamw question as none of my personal cars rev that high and I haven't played with one that does.

Well, Ill stick to 2x injectors then and Go 3x when you have it sorted  

And another (possibly)  silly question... Is the Link 4x able to map to 10k RPM? and is there any idiosyncrasies on the trigger filters  I will need to be aware of? The cars current ECU maps stop at 8000 RPM and then Fudges the rest...  

I'm Hoping to use direct fire with NO wasted spark to attempt to limit electrode wear.

(Current ECU is powered by a miniature Dinosaur...... Well, It was cutting edge 27 years ago! )

I asked for anti lag logs with 6.21 and 6.22
It seems that with 6.22 it loses the throttle body movement when it activates the ALS.
In the logs if they indicate which E-Throttle table is used, sorry.  Only RPM Limit does not differentiate between 1 or 2

What exactly stopped working with the Anti Lag in 6.22? is it not activating? can you describe or show what issues you are having with it?
 
can you attach a copy of your tune so I can see exactly what you are doing with your rpm limits please.
Have fixed this, fix will be in the next release.

Thinking about this when I was writing up the task last night - cant you just log the status of whatever you have set for the table 2 activation?

I've made a few changes lately. 

Firstly I converted to an e-throttle ITB setup from a BMW S1000RR. 
This, by some luck had a port spacing almost exactly identical and right size for a 1NZ motor.
It also means I've got cruise control connected up, which works awesomely.

I'm now running some slightly shorter runners that have given some gains in the 6000-9000rpm region at expense of some midrange. Good for drags. 

I also went to a 13" wheel setup, so a 205/70/13 M&H dot rated bias ply tyre for the front. Then some skinny alloys with 155s on the back. 

Car weight is now around 790kg.



So I went to the drags again, and it ran great! 

I ran a 13.49 @ 99.5 mph. 

Had a 2.09 60ft so that could still probably improve a bit. But on the whole, was real happy with it. 
I was using a new shift light setup that I wasnt quite used to, so ended up buzzing the limiter a little more than ideal. 
I'm looking forward to getting out there again and experimenting some more with tyre pressures and launch rpm to find what's good. 
On the whole though, the car's been great.

Here's a video of the 13.4 run:
 

Also, because this is a weird/unusual engine and car combo. Especially for drags.
Some gentlemen from the Moving Our World youtube channel came along to film a night of racing. 
So they put together this really cool video, which is a nice keepsake for a successful night with a new PB.
 
Some interesting slow motion footage of the run where I was launching at 7500rpm with only 7psi in the fronts.
Still heaps of wheel spin, but it's amazing how a proper drag tyre will just keep propelling you forward anyway.
 
 
 

FIXED! Got her working.

If anyone ends up googling how to do it here's your answer.
The instrument cluster wiring diagram above shows the solid state logic for the fuel economy gauge. While it was very basic it appears it required vehicle speed and rpm amongst others. So with the car up on jacks, running in 2nd gear, 1100 rpm and 25kp/h, i was able to start inputing the Duty Cycle as i originally wanted.
ECU output at 250hz

18.5% Duty Cycle= 4 on the gauge
20% = 10
22% = 15
23% = 16
24% = 20
25% = 23
26% = 24
27% = 26
Ill be honest and say i didn't test at other rev ranges or speeds. So there may be some more tinkering required in that regard but so far so good.

Thanks everyone for your help!
 

An Volt 1-4 will be used for things like oil pressure and TPS, usually these sensors require an An Volt, a +5V reference and a signal ground wire.
An Temp 1-2 will be used for temperature inputs like coolant and intake air temp as they are like an AN Volt input but have built in pullup resistors, two wire temperature sensors are wired with one wire connected to an An Temp input and the other wire connected to a signal ground wire from the ECU.
Auxiliary Output 1-6 will be used for things like your VVT Solenoid, Idle air valve, fuel pump and so on, things that the ECU is controlling. usually one wire of the solenoid is connected to a ignition switched power Supply and the other to an Auxiliary output. If your idle air valve is anything like the gen2 3s one then it needs two Auxiliary outputs and an ignition switched power supply to control, typically you would use Aux 1 and 2 for this.
DI 1-4 are usually used for switch inputs like brake switch or clutch switch or frequency inputs like Gearbox/wheel speed. On the Atom and Monsoon DI 4 can be used as a switched input or as a Knock input. This is done to give the user some extra configurability while keeping the same 34 pin plug.
For your O2 sensor have you acquired a wideband sensor and controller or are you planning on using the factory Narrowband sensor?
@Adamw might have a generic 4 cyl engine wiring diagram which should show how these things are connected in more detail
 

yes you can have 12V on one side of the bulb and the aux on the other side of the bulb as long as the bulb uses less than 2A. Typical dash bulbs like the CE Light, oil light, cruise lights etc are fine.