Adamw

Latched launch mode has all you want I think. Set up a GP output for your TPS >35% activation, all the rest is built-in to the function. Example below should behave as you describe provided I have understood your explanation correctly. The launch RPM will be latched at whatever it was doing at the instant you hit 35% TPS. It would be easier with a button in my opinion - rev up to whatever RPM you want, then hit the button and it will stay there.

Your log doesnt have all the data needed, but I would say most likely it is your MAP limit. Where my yellow cursor is just before the limiter is activated, your boost target is 109kPa so your MAP limit would be 138kPa, your MAP at the same instant is 136kPa. With the MAP limit advanced mode turned off it has a 10kPa control range so actually starts to cut 10kPa before the limit. For future reference, the smallest value in your boost target table should be the minimum "spring pressure" that the system is capable of. Having a target below that will mean boost control will sometimes jump straight into stage 3 before it has even started to spool. A boost target of 0 absolute is impossible.

Assuming you no longer have the stock coil ignitor, then your high voltage tacho wont work with any aftermarket ecu directly. The same methods for making it work with MS or Haltech will work with Link. You can either modify the tacho so it operates with a 12V signal, or you can fit a "tacho booster" between the ecu and tacho to generate the high voltage spike required to drive it.

The Zetec coil is a "dumb coil", it has no electronics in it for switching the high current/high voltage primary. The ECU cant control this directly, for a dumb coil you need an ignitor wired in between the ecu and coil. So you will need to add a 2 or 3 channel ignitor, or you can swap to a more modern smart coil which has the ignitor built in. 2ch igniter example is Bosch 0227100200 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/668873 Wasted spark smart coil (subaru) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/beru/13648288 Wasted spark smart coil (VW) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/757956

For the trigger scope, you need to click the capture button when the engine is cranking, not before. What engine is it? Have you set the base timing?

No, ecu power supply is not related to fuel pump.

The Fury has a builtin lambda controller, it doesnt need a CAN lambda controller, you can wire the LSU4.9 sensor directly to the relevant pins on the ecu.

A Zetec coil pack doesnt even have a ground does it? This is a dumb coil, have you fitted an ignitor?

What function/sensor are you talking about? If you are running the stock controller you can leave it as is.

The B-series triggers need to be wired in reverse compared to OEM honda wiring also.

Attach a copy of your tune, a PC log of it cranking, and a trigger scope captured during cranking.

This error just means the ecu was unplugged or powered off while the PC was connected. It most likely means you have a power supply issue so the ecu is not staying powered up while cranking. What car/ecu?

Tacho should be on the same pin as the wrx according to the pinout above. If you have tacho assigned to aux 4 already and it is not working then you are going to have to investigate yourself. It is not a car we have tested or have any info about. Idle would usually be the last function to tune. Tune fuel and ignition first then worry about idle once you have those well optimised.

This is by design. All your PC Link options are stored in your roaming directory so you can do an update without losing all your settings/preferences, as well as multiple PC Link versions can be installed alongside each other and they will all work the same. Stuff like units preferences, fonts/themes, quicktune and mixture map settings, default directories, parameter configs etc. I think most users would prefer the directory behaviour that you get with the "use this directory" option left unchecked. PC Link then always defaults to the last directory you used for that type of file.

Most Mazda cam sensor signals invert somewhere around idle speed and only one edge will remain accurate when this happens. Given your cam position is showing non-zero after calibration it could be that the calibration was performed at idle when the signal was inverted. Redo the cal at about 2000RPM, and then keep an eye on Inlet Bank 1 Sys status and Inlet bank 1 position runtimes over a range of RPM's, and immediately after a restart etc. If it reports faults or the position doesnt return to zero reliably at idle then that would suggest the wrong edge is being used so try swapping trigger 2 active edge and then redo the cal.

Your BAP is 96kPa, so with the engine off your MAP should read about the same. Yours is currently reading 8kPa so something is wrong with the MAP sensor or its wiring. The analog input is showing 0.06V so it seems something must be connected, but it is wired wrong or something.

Wire it as per our plug-in pinout. The Link ECU requires reluctor sensors to have a falling zero crossing, which is what 99.9% of reluctor sensors generate when wired with the manufacturer's intended polarity. For whatever reason Honda decided to do the opposite and work with an inverted signal compared to everyone else.

Yes, V4 is PC tunable. It requires a "SerialLink" or "ComLink" device between ECU and PC however.

This is a G1 LEMV4. The main firmware and trigger board are for a twin distributor 1UZ-FE.

Fuel pressure sensor is connected to an aux? The AC pressure switch is usually fitted between the AC request switch and the ecu, so idle up isn't activated if pressure is lost and you get proper clutch delay etc when cycled on the high pressure side. Some other stuff could be simplified such as clutch switch could just be connected to ground.

I would usually just adjust accel fuel live while doing some blips or load changes while driving and watching what accel fuel and lambda does in a time plot etc. The settings vary a lot from engine to engine as the injector spray pattern and other injector related variables have a big influence so there isn't really a typical setup that will work for all/most. I would generally start with something like the attached settings. Accel suggestion.pclr

I reckon the bulk of your issue is probably accel fuel related. It looks like you have the deadband too high so you get no accel fuel for most throttle movements, then when you do occasionally break through that deadband you have a large clamp or cold correction so you get a crap ton dumped in.

My info might be a bit out of date, that comment about the metal covered sensor was from a conversation with one of our old engineers who owned one. From a quick bit of research myself it looks like possibly the original unreliable plastic one was 23731-AL60C. That was superseded by 23731-AL60D which was the metal-covered one (Possibly Hitatchi# U11N03-REVS). However, it looks like that has also now been superseded by 23731-AL60E which is back to a plastic body. I dont know about the reliability of this revision. But, since you do have an aftermarket flywheel, definitely keep the possibility of an airgap issue in the back of your mind. I dont think you will find the correct air gap published anywhere, if you know someone with a stock one you could remove the sensor and measure the depth from the mounting face to the wheel teeth and compare to yours.

Increase the idle ignition RPM lockout to about 1700RPM and in idle control settings, reduce the anti-stall gain to 1.0. Those should hopefully settle down the oscillation.

You could use Aux 6 & 7 at the ecu header or already in the engine bay in the O2 sensor plugs, or if it is the non up-rev model with only intake VVT then you will also have Aux 3 & 5 spare at the ecu header.