Adamw

AN Volt 2 - the main TPS sensor shows zero volts at all times. Most likely a bad connection or failed sensor.

Yeah but you havent even mentioned what are the symptoms of the problem you are trying to diagnose? Is it misfiring?,blowing black smoke? or something else? What makes you think you have a "fuel issue"? If your mechanical gauge reads different to the electronic sensor then you really need to determine which one is wrong with a 3rd known good device. If you attach your tune and give some detail about what fuel pressure sensor has been used I will at least check the calibration matches. For the "vacuum leak" I wouldnt expect disconnecting a small vacuum hose to have much noticeable effect. Are you using the factory MAP sensor in the manifold or the Link one in the ECU?

Definately the voltage improves a lot with the filter reduced so that could potentially be the cause of the problem. So leave the filter on level one and drop the arming threshold at 7000 back to 3V. Let us know if that helps.

Yeah, will need to see a log and the tune. Most likely base position is too high or dashpot. I have an Evo7 so I can probably give you some decent starting points once I see a log.

Im not sure what else to offer, I havent personally seen an issue like this - although I have definitely heard of others having issues with dual card machines. PC Link uses openGL for the graphics and searching around it seems lots of gamers complain about AMD's driver giving poor performance with openGL but generally it seems Nvidia works well with it. It might be worth trying some older drivers if you can find anything - both from the laptop manufacturer and the native AMD/Nvidia ones if available.

What do you mean by "Fuel signal is digital"? Is the ecu already reading fuel level ok?

Is the trigger mode set to K20/K24?

If you want to go for option 1 and only use the 4 tooth wheel, then settings will look like this:

Can you measure voltage similar to what you done above but back probing the pins at the ecu.

So your options with that distributor are: Connect the top sensor that has the 4 teeth wheel to trigger 1 input. No trigger 2 required. Pros: faster start up, less wiring. Cons: Less accurate ignition timing especially during transient conditions (ECU only gets 1 position update every 180 crank degrees, it has to guess any other angle between teeth). Connect bottom 24 tooth sensor to trigger 1, connect top sensor to trigger 2, grind off 3 of the 4 teeth from that top wheel so it only has a single tooth for trigger 2. Pros: More accurate timing, can be used to upgrade to direct spark in the future. Cons: Slower startup, one extra wire, distributor needs to be modified.

Actually, thinking about it again my comment above is wrong. There are at least two variations of 4AGE distributors - the early ones had 4 teeth on the bottom reluctor wheel, if yours has this then it will work with just trigger 1. There are also some which have a 24T wheel for trigger 1. For this variation it wouldnt work correctly without trig 2, you would need a single tooth per distributor rev on trigger 2 to sync. Sorry for the confusion, you must have got me too early in the morning.

Yep, generic dash stream is the same in G4X

Doesnt the one in the AEM software have everything? >documents>AEM>DashDesign>CAN

I dont have a EZ30 map for a G4X, but I can knock up something that will get you running without too much work. For the B loom question it will depend on how much you can do yourself and what tools and supplies you have on hand. You probably wont end up with a lot connected to the B plug - maybe 6-8 of the 34 wires. In this sort of situation I generally wouldnt buy the B loom, just the bare plug and add only the wires I need. But if you need to buy a crimp tool and several rolls of different colour decent wire then it would probably just be cheaper to buy the B loom.

Yeah that should be all it needs for distributor ignition assuming you dont need individual cylinder knock control. Set trigger 2 sync mode to none.

Most of our trigger modes have the correct offset built in that is very close for most engines. The Evo's seem to be pretty consistent from car to car in my experience and usually end up with the offset close to zero but you should still always check.

This post is in the G4X section, it looks like you have a G4+. In G4+ you go to the output you want to use and set its function to "CE Light".

Looks more like a wiring issue if you get those errors when Lambdas are plugged in and engine is running.

What is the actual problem you are trying to solve?

Will need some triggerscopes doing at high RPM. I would drop trigger 1 filtering down to level 1, level 3 is possibly too high for a high tooth count wheel.

Its a haltech problem, you will need to raise it with them.

Yeah I think you are in trouble, all devices need to run at the same speed and I dont think either of those devices are configurable.

Has it got a ground cable all the way from the battery to the engine? If not I have seen that cause large voltage drops as the chassis gets older. One other thing you can try which might stop the ecu from shutting down - pin 4 controls the main relay, it may be the big drop in voltage at the start of cranking that is causing this control circuit to switch off the main relay. Get something like a paper clip pushed in to touch the terminal on ecu/loom pin 4, Connect this pin to ground then the main relay will be permanently engaged. See if it still disconnects when cranking like that.

You should be able to attach the files to this post.