Adamw

The last one I done also had CL E-throttle idle and I didnt see this odd effect you have going on. Your CL idle should normally be locked out by the RPM lockout? The speed lockout should take care of it when moving also. I might need to see your .pclr file too. I only have an ecu log with not all parameters recorded, but you can see in this pic below TP main is sitting at 4.9% during over-run which was normal idle position.

Yes you would be limited to semi-sequential with the Altezza ecu, but bare in mind that is all the 1U's are from the factory anyway.

Yes that will be no drama, barely break a sweet. If its a road car it might be worth looking at the Altezza ecu also which would allow you to keep the factory dash.

I have never tried TP Low lockout at zero, I just looked at the last car I done downshift blip and I had TP low lockout set to 2%, (in this car the throttle didnt go below about 5% in normal use though, I see yours goes down to 0%, it might pay to open that up a little as the throttle motors often break gears if you slam them shut like that. No, this should be higher than your normal idle TP. Im not sure why it is not working for you, it may be related to the TP lockout above set to zero. I may need to see a log. But in my last set up the drive/overrun TP is set to 8%. This means anything less that 8% TP is considered an overrun downshift (will blip), any gear shift with more than 8% TP is considered a driven downshift (ign cut). For your E-throttle error, yes I think it is PID too. Too much P or D.

Video showing one way to do it, have a go yourself and yell out if you get stuck. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPsGBRkiQdD_bztGu4?e=tf20RR Stream file attached below. Configurable Generic Stream MXS.lcs

If you give a bit of info about the engine I can put something together that will be close enough. I suggest you start with the Fury base map and set up all the analog inputs etc to match your wiring, then post a copy of that basic setup map here and I will look after the rest.

Sorry, what is the actual problem? Do you have RPM & spark during cranking, but is doesnt run?

I dont really see anything wrong in the log. The lambda sensor will not have any influence on it starting. You could try spraying some ethere in the manifold if you suspect a fuel issue. I would put a timing light on it to make sure that looks close still, I have seen the CAS drive come loose in the RB camshafts before as well as they jump teeth when a cam tensioner seizes.

If you want to completely change tables then use a virtual aux. Set the table to 3D and put the rotary switch on one of the table axes. For instance: Unfortunately yes, it is designed to have a switch. Downshift will require either E-throttle or a blip solenoid. You might be better to connect that input to a clutch switch and use it for flat shift.

the E-throttle module is basically just a dumb high current H-bridge, it does not do any of the control, it just does increases the current handling of the normal aux outputs. So the pedal sensors and TP sensors still connect directly to the ecu and all the normal rules apply. The work-around for the odd pedal sensor would be to wire the single signal output into two analog inputs.

If you grind that long tooth completely off it will make it into a 18-1 trigger pattern which is supported. The engine would have to run wasted spark ignition and batch fire injection without a cam sensor. Ideally you would add a cam sensor which will give you sequential and direct spark capability.

The runtimes will show off when set up to a pulsed output. The "active" runtime only works for basic on/off type functions like fuel pumps/fans etc. Your Aux set-up looks correct for the tacho. For the speedo, set offset to zero, max freq to 500 and sweep freq to 500, sweep time to 2s and hopefully you will see some movement next key-on. Im not very familiar with the american 240SX, what did they have for an ignition system originally? Distributor and single coil or multi coil?

I moved this to its own thread since it wasnt related to the one you posted in. The ignition outputs will remain at ground until the engine is turning and the ECU is commanding dwell. So for the coils to charge and spark it sounds like either you have something wrong in your config or perhaps wiring. The LS coils trigger at very low voltage so make sure the signal ground pin is grounded to ecu sensor ground and nowhere else. Can you attach the map from the LS for me to check too.

Im not really sure what would cause what you are seeing here, but could you try powering up on the bench and do a firmware update. To power up on the bench the easiest way is to clip +12V on to the stripped side of the TVS diode, and ground on other side. May not be a bad idea to try a different laptop if you have a spare.

These are the trigger teeth on the outside of the flywheel. So we need to know what pattern these are in - there will likely be a number of evenly spaced teeth then either some missing teeth, long teeth or or extra teeth.

You are right sorry, I thought the standard for GM data was 300Kpa too. So leave I would leave yours as is, the values you have are fine. SPWA generally has little effect with 1000cc injectors anyway.

Ok, it looks like it needs to be scaled down to correct resolution as its received. So set divider to 1000 should do it. This is sending a value of "1100" via CAN. Edit, added later: I think I found where the problem is. It does actually work when set to Link CAN the way it suggests in the help file note you attached, but it now needs a divider of 1000, it didnt in the G4+. I will pass that on to engineering and either get them to fix it or fix the help file note. So this set up will work too:

Can you attach your map, Ill have a quick play around. Cant say i've personally done it with a 3rd party device yet.

It works a bit different in G4X as pretty much any input or output can be via CAN. So in your user CAN stream, change the received parameter to CAN Analog 1 or similar (not Lambda 1). Then in the analog inputs section, go to lambda 1 and set the "Lambda sensor control" to CAN analog 1. Leave calibration set to none I think.

If you can find a pinout for the JZS147 and share it I can check it is a match. It will need to be single turbo. The only experience I have to share is I once had an Altezza with a 2J in it come to me for tuning, it was apparently an "Aristo" engine and harness, the Supra link plugged straight in and worked with that. But I have little knowledge of the various related toyota platforms.

Huh? Is this a Link ECU?

They are keyed different. A plug = 4-1437290-0 B plug = 4-1437290-1

+12V onto pin A5 and Ground on pin A34. This pic is looking into the back (wire side) of the connector.