Adamw

Yes, that has a fixed (non-adjustable) 1Kohm pull-up so will be fine.

You will want the 1Kohm internal pull-up enabled.

Map and log will be the best place to start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

If you want a more aggressive limiter you can turn on advanced mode and experiment with the settings. A smaller control range and higher start cut will make it harder. Be aware some engines dont like an aggressive ignition cut limiter and will throw rockers, drop valves etc so it is at your risk.

Yes you will have to use a custom cal table. Example below. I have also attached a table file you can import to save typing the numbers in manually. AEM30-2012 Calibration Table.lte

You cant really compare to anyone else's engine. The amount of noise an engine makes will vary with bore clearance, valve lash, ignition timing, boost pressure, etc. On top of that the knock gain settings will scale the volume up or down too.

I have helped Jimmy via our tech support livechat. It was not trigger related at all, the oil pressure limiter was being activated because the oil press sensor was not working.

For the idle control, adjust the RPM lockout to 1000RPM, this is not a proper fix but will allow the idle control work. Your AFR doesnt look bad in the log but it was only really idling, its more important what happens with a little more load on it. To add more fuel you can adjust the master fuel setting, most likely bump it up by 1 or 2 will be enough. In any case, provided you drive it lightly everything will be fine.

There are no math channels in our logging software. However if you set it up like in the post I linked to above you dont need any math channel - it will be displayed in RPM already, albeit with 1 zero missing off the end.

Assuming you have an ecu with the trigger scope hardware built-in then the first step is to do a triggerscope and attach it here. Here is a quick vid showing how to do it: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Its hard to work out what you are on about here, password protection has nothing to do with MAP or BAP. It sounds like you should get a local dealer or someone with a bit more experience to help.

The ECUs are being shipped out with the correct map already loaded in them. The 5.6.5 basemap is set up wrong as that was from before the hardware change. Yes all the basemaps have all been updated in 5.6.6 to cover hardware changes, firmware changes and a few mistakes that have been reported.

Correct, only aux 5-8 can do stepper control. You will have to add another relay or mosfet into the circuit somewhere to make the aux output highside.

FYI, I have been helping this guy via facebook, not ignoring him here on purpose.

Yep thats been done in 5.6.6. The manuals on the respective ECU page on our website should always have the most up to date pinouts. The base map that we send out in the ECU should be set up correct as far as I know, are you saying its not?

And when the ECU shows 1200RPM, what do you feel is the real RPM? The triggerscope looks quite usable now. Can you attach a photo of the trigger wheel.

Have a closer read of my post here, this is the best workaround for now, no converter needed: http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/6827-turbo-speed-input-g4-thunder-di-11-16/?do=findComment&comment=58245

Have a closer read of my post here, this is the best workaround for now, no converter needed:

If you still have a stepper motor idle valve its going to need to get a bit more complicated than that so that the ECU can stay alive after key-off to reset the stepper.

No you do not need the ign aux. One side of your switch connects to the DI, the other side can connect to +12V or gnd. It doesnt need to be sensor or ecu ground specifically, any old ground should work.

All limiters have a control range, for the MAP limit the default control range setting is 10Kpa. That means if the limit is set at 240Kpa, it will start applying the minimum % cut (start cut) at 230Kpa, if MAP continues to increase then the %cut will increase up until the maximum "end cut" at 240Kpa. You can turn on the advanced limiter settings if you want to adjust the control range, start cut or end cut from their default settings. The larger you make the control range the smoother the limiting action will be but it will start to cut earlier.

This is how it should be done. The +14V must be ignition switched.

So have you changed the load source back to map? Im not convinced the MAP sensor is reading correctly as the lowest it drops in the log is 80KPa and that is at 1300RPM with closed throttle, it should be more like half that. Or possibly the engine is hurt and it doesnt actually make vacuum? Is the MAP sensor connected to the standard port/nipple? Is there anything else "tee'd" off its vacuum line? Have you still got the stock MAP sensor to try?

Ok, the crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity. Swap the wires should fix it. The timing will shift a little when you do that so you will want to check base timing again after that. The cam tooth is also a little closer to the crank gap than i'd like but Im pretty sure it will be ok where it is. Lets try just swapping the crank polarity first.

As well as it not following the commanded value you will see spikes up and down. This is called dwell scatter. Dwell scatter is typically a sign of trigger error. Can you do us a triggerscope, lets start with just a capture at idle. Here's a vid how to do it if you dont know how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY Post the scope capture here and a copy of your tune file.