Adamw

For a VR sensor to work well, the teeth on the wheel will have to be about the same width as the original teeth on the Diahatsu wheel. I also suggest you make the missing tooth gap just like you have it below (full depth). The "half depth" gap is only required on high tooth count wheels (60-2 etc). Attach your map so I can check your settings.

For the audio analysis you dont connect it to the ECU, it gets connected to your laptop microphone port using a 3.5mm splitter cable. There are instructions in the PC Link helpfile.

That is a VR sensor waveform. Is that sensor on the front of your engine original?

I would say it is because your fuel table axis is MGP but you have logged MAP, not MGP?

You have a hall effect sensor according to the map you sent me earlier. Those instructions are for reluctor sensors.

Yep, TPS should share fine. Most likely. You will have to be careful of backfeeding. check things like power to the VVT solenoid and fan relay shuts off with ign - some OEM systems leave this stuff "live" at all times which wont work with a Link. With no e-throttle I think this is unlikely to cause a drivability problem. Assuming you dont have any sort of "vehicle safety inspection" in your country then DTC's are probably not a concern.

What have you done now? That new wheel is wrong. This one is correct: I believe 1 wire is ground, 1 wire is 12V, the other wire PWM should go to an aux output and the function should be set to ISC solenoid. The VVT solenoid, one wire should go to +12V, the other wire should go to an Aux output.

Hi Chris, Your proposal sounds ok. Piggyback installs where sensors have to be shared and authority is taken away from the OEM ecu can be challenging so be aware it is not for a beginner. Especially DBW cars as they have so many safety strategies once you start taking away some of the feedback systems if they get unhappy they will just shut the throttle and not allow you to get aware. Some of these challenges often need quite creative workarounds to make it all happy. We talked on webchat earlier about the pros/cons of the Kurofune Vs the Monsoon. The main decider would be the type of crank/cam sensors. If your engine has a reluctor for either sensor then the OEM ecu usually wont like sharing that with another "conventional" ecu trigger circuit. The Kurofune has differential trigger inputs specifically designed for this purpose so that would be the recommended option if they are reluctors. On the other hand, if they are both hall effect sensors then they can be shared successfully with one of our more conventional ECU's such as the Monsoon. The Kurofune has a few other features that can help in piggyback installs such as analog outputs to simulate some of the sensors that you take away from the OEM ecu. A good example is the O2 sensor - when the OEM ECU sees that its O2 sensor is not responding as it expects it will throw codes.

The 24-1 will definitely be the better option as it is well proven/commonly used for a camshaft trigger. 48-2 should work in theory but it is not one I have seen before and I cant even test it without a lot of work as my simulator doesnt have that as a preset output. VVT control is completely separate to the engine position trigger. For some engines the same cam teeth are used for both the trigger sync and VVT but the ECU still treats engine position and camshaft position as two separate functions. Your 24-1 wheel is the engine position trigger, it does not need a separate sync since it is fitted to the camshaft it already gives a unique missing tooth every 720degs. The 3 teeth on the back of the cam are for the VVT position. Some VVT engines have only 1 tooth on the cam for cam position (BMW), some have up to about 14, but most commonly something like 3-6 teeth. Our User defined VVT mode allows a max of 8 teeth. I dont know where the 48-2 idea come from but it is completely wrong. Contact me again when you have it running with the 24-1 and I will try to help you with the VVT.

No, it looks like that device has CAN broadcast only, it doesnt have any CAN receive capability. I have not seen a low-cost one that has this functionality.

Get someone to take your car for a short drive with you in the passenger seat with your laptop. Open the ignition table and turn on the snake trails, these will show you the cells that the engine travels through during the last few seconds of operation, watch it during overrun and you will have a pretty good idea of which cells you need to adjust and if they are ever close to being accessed during normal driving. No it will just drive like shit.

Thanks for the log. Actually your triggering looks pretty solid. I would say your reported RPM ROC is quite real. I would be quite happy with what I see here, and I would expect you have very good steady timing.

No. 85 to ECU aux output (pin 65). 86 must be an ignition switched 12V source. 30 is battery +ve. 87 is Fan +ve.

Ok, sorry for my slow reply. I have made some minor tweaks. Can you give this a run and log it using the PC logger, then attach that here. mr2 boost tweaked.pcl

I would say yours looks worse than I would expect but the is not enough data here to conclude that. Please attach a log rather than a screenshot. Ignition dwell is often a telling parameter to look at as that shows how regular the teeth spacing are arriving at the ECU.

Sorry, you are right. Im using a newer version of PC Link. That must have been a mistake that has since been fixed.

Yes as I mentioned above this is a new bug. It will be fixed in the next release. For now you just need to assign a speed source - even if you dont have one connected. There is no Idle derivative table for E-throttle.

Yes, you can use Aux 4 (pin #65) which was originally the AC Clutch output to switch your fan relay. The aux output will send out a ground to turn on the fan so you will have to confirm the relay is wired to work that way. Also be aware the relay coil power needs to switch off with the ignition switch.

I have been helping Summer with this via tech support & web-chat, so it probably doesnt need much more forum input at this time. This engine also has a 4-1 wheel at the far end of the camshaft for VVT so I think we will be able to make it all work with the user defined VVT mode (still yet to test/confirm this). The trigger settings in his map did not match the wheel he has pictured here so that was his main problem with it not running right.

You should only need to adjust the cells that will only be accessed during overrun. If your ign table has TP as the load axis then the cells I have highlighted in the table below would be what I would adjust. There should be no problem having big changes/increments between these cells in this area as they will only ever be active during overrun where cylinder pressure is very low and there is almost no combustion.

For the valve current I think an SSR would be the best option, the Auxes will do more than 2A for a considerable period before getting too hot but I think 4.75A is pushing the boundaries a bit far. The injector outputs can do 10A, but you dont have as much control flexibility with those for PWM and you will be already using all 8 for seq injection. For switching tables there are many options. If you wanted to completely switch to a fully independent table then you would turn on the "Dual fuel/ignition table" (under fuel corrections), set it to dual table mode and assign its activation to the aux that is driving your pump or you can switch it with a virtual aux if you want to add further activation conditions. It will then switch to table 2 when the pump is activated. If you dont need the resolution of a completely separate fuel table, then another option is the 4D/5D overlay style tables. You can simplify these a little more - like for instance you might just want add 5deg timing to the whole ignition map above 4000RPM whenever the meth inj is activated...

Yes, but as per the other thread you will be best to cut it down so that at least the RS232 wires are less than 200mm long. Normally for a CAN device we recommend just the bare CANF plug so you then only connect the 2 CAN wires and nothing to the serial pins. The "CANDASH" cable was made for our old discontinued "Displaylink" which could connect via CAN or serial via the same cable depending on what ECU the user was connecting too. A link to the other thread for anyone else reading:

We use the same Green/White convention. This from the help file:

Is that 168KPa Gauge pressure or absolute? If it is gauge pressure then that would agree with the info in the PC Link help file:

Yes, it should work fine, although you will only have a 3D table and some on/off conditions to control the PWM to the pump, I dont think the original system logic was any more sophisticated than that however. I know it also has a TPS input.