Adamw

On the M3.1 non vanos ecu, pin 16 is the cam sensor ground and pin 44 is the cam sensor signal.  There is only one cam sensor.
On the Vanos ECU, connect the cam sensor ground wire to any sensor ground - pin 43,44, 45 or 71 would do.  Connect the cam sensor signal wire to pin 17.

Probably many ways to do it, but below would work.   Fuel level raw is value coming from the sensor.  Fuel level filtered is the parameter you would send to the dash or whatever. 
The equation av(a, 60) would sample the fuel level raw 20 times over 60 seconds and return the average of those samples.  

 

Yes that looks like it would work to me.  A fixed frequency of 100Hz would be fine.  Note this setup would give some motor power as soon as the torque sensor voltage moved away from 2.5V - so at 2.49V for example the H-bridge will be outputting a small voltage.  Is that ok or do you need a deadband between 2.4-2.6V?
 
It should be possible to do it with CAN using the "CAN Word W1" for direction and PWM.  -4095 to 0 would give 100-0% left, 0 to 4095 would give 0-100% right.
 
 

Yeah I dont see anything obvious.  I suspect it may just be a lack of fuel due to the overrun fuel cut up to that point.  I would try turning ORFC off and then try to reproduce the problem with that off.  

You dont need traditional, modelled will work exactly the same.  Modelled makes more sense for blended fuels.
 
Really you dont even need RPM as a general comment, load is the main factor that needs to be referenced.  However, RPM can be useful for situations such as a modified engine that doesnt like to idle at lambda 1.0 but will cruise happily at that.  Or when you have something very knock limited you can use a richer target right around the peak torque RPM to reduce knock risk, then lean it off once past peak torque so you arent giving away too much power from being excessively rich.  
 
Read the flex fuel set up and tuning guide in the help file.  If you are using modelled mode then your fuel table represents VE (air flow), so in theory it shouldn't change when you change fuel.  In reality however it sometimes does change a little due to egt differences and scavenging effects etc.  I have only done a few full flex tunes as E85 is only available as an expensive race fuel here now but I found provided you have good injector data you usually dont need a 2nd fuel table enabled.  For ignition tables yes, you would typically set up 2 tables that are blended between, one is tuned on straight petrol the other on straight ethanol or at least the highest concentration you will run.  With ignition however the blend isn't linear like it is with most fuel related stuff, so you need to check it at a few concentrations in between the extremes.  For example you will have a big difference in Ign timing going from E0 to E50, but from E50 to E100 there will be little difference.
Multi fuel blend is generally the better option as then 0-100% matches your min and max ethanol content.  So for example if you tuned the first table with E0 and the second table with E80, then you want to be using 100% table 2 when you are running on E80.  If you had ethanol content on the axis then when you had E80 in the tank you would be pulling numbers only 80% of the way between table 2 and table 1.  

Please attach a copy of your map and a log of it idling, we can only guess with no info provided.  If it is in closed loop mode and all idle conditions are met then the valve would normally move to whatever position is needed to achieve the correct idle speed, adjusting base position shouldn't change anything unless it momentarily jumps outside of one of the lockouts.  There is also a minimum and maximum clamp value that will prevent the DC going outside of the set range.  

I have had no experience driving a EPS motor directly, but the ECU master device should be able to do the direction change.  
If using PWM input for example you can set the PWM offset to "middle offset" then, 0% input = 100% reverse.  50%DC input = 0% (stop).  100%input = 100% forwards.  
A similar setup can be done for CAN input.  

 

If the key already powers other stuff that is not going to be moved to the PDM then all the PDM needs is an Ign Sw signal from the same switch.  The ECU should be connected to the same source as injectors and coils so it is applying correct deadtimes and dwell times, so if those are powered from the PDM then the ECU should be too. 
 
 They will be fine all on the one bus.

Yes, for the pressure cal use bosch 0 261 230 340, for the temp sensor use "std bosch NTC".
 
Yes you need higher voltage for lean mixtures so that means a large gap.  However there is a compromise between how large you can go to increase voltage at low loads Vs how much ign energy the coil can generate to jump the larger gap at high RPM & cyl pressures.  So I would have thought a stock plug at stock gap would be about where you would need to be.  

Yeah its a bit of a pain at the moment.  
A couple of options:
Create a keypad setup on both PDMs with identical settings for max counts and parameters. With only one PDM having a "Tx Rate" set for the keypad, this way the counts for keypad buttons will remain in sync and each PDM can access this value. The downside to this is that only the PDM that's transmitting can set the keypad LED color.   
The other option is as you have mentioned where you use the ecu to re-send the button out to the 2nd pdm.  In the last couple of setups I have done I found most keypad control was needed on one PDM and the other only needed a couple of buttons so this method was easiest. 
 

The grounds on the expansion connectors are intended as sensor ground 

Yes you are right, that really is a power ground, it is designed to be the power supply for a CAN lambda or other CAN device.  I will get that wording corrected.  

Yes, you can use the external module to do 2 x E-throttles.  Common for VR38's and VQ35HR's etc.  You can assign different target tables and PID parameters to each throttle but keep in mind if using E-throttle for idle control, then the Idle control function will have some effect on both throttles when idle conditions are met.    
Edited.  Oops, I was thinking G4X.  The G4+ Xtreme cant do 2 e-throttles sorry.  

Yes you are right, that really is a power ground, it is designed to be the power supply for a CAN lambda or other CAN device.  I will get that wording corrected.  

I noticed today on the Link CAN gauge box liner it says "up to 40 configurable screens" - that's a bit misleading as I'm pretty sure it's 10 screens with up to 4 parameters per screen or "up to 40 configurable parameters".

I would guess most likely just the sample rate of PC logging at only 40Hz doesnt always capture a spike in TPS delta which can be very short.  
Try ecu logging TPS delta at 500Hz to see if it looks better.

FYI, another workaround is you can move your IAT or ECT sensor to AN Temp 4 which will free up AN Temp 1 or 2.  AN Temp 1 & 2 have switchable pull-up resistors so you can turn them off and use as a normal analog input for most functions.  

Some OEM's high side drive the VTC solenoid (Honda and Subaru) but there is no specific need to, just what they chose to do.  Some of the early Vtec hondas (B serias and possibly D series) they had a single wire VTEC solenoid where one end of the coil is grounded through the body so the ecu needs to switch the positive side.  But still a half bridge is not needed, just a high side drive or more commonly just a relay.
I suspect where the confusion is coming from is just the loose use of the term "half bridge".  Motec for example call their aux outputs "half bridge outputs" just because they are capable of high side or low side drive, but you dont use them as a half bridge to drive a solenoid.  They only work in half bridge mode if set up as a stepper motor drive or in a pair for E-throttle (but when 2 half bridges are paired like this it is usually called a full bridge).  
On the Xtreme Aux 5-8 are half bridge outputs, but we dont call them that as the only time they actually work as a half bridge is when set up as a 4 wire stepper.  For all other functions such as VTC or idle valves they only function as low side or high side drives. 
 

Some OEM's high side drive the VTC solenoid (Honda and Subaru) but there is no specific need to, just what they chose to do.  Some of the early Vtec hondas (B serias and possibly D series) they had a single wire VTEC solenoid where one end of the coil is grounded through the body so the ecu needs to switch the positive side.  But still a half bridge is not needed, just a high side drive or more commonly just a relay.
I suspect where the confusion is coming from is just the loose use of the term "half bridge".  Motec for example call their aux outputs "half bridge outputs" just because they are capable of high side or low side drive, but you dont use them as a half bridge to drive a solenoid.  They only work in half bridge mode if set up as a stepper motor drive or in a pair for E-throttle (but when 2 half bridges are paired like this it is usually called a full bridge).  
On the Xtreme Aux 5-8 are half bridge outputs, but we dont call them that as the only time they actually work as a half bridge is when set up as a 4 wire stepper.  For all other functions such as VTC or idle valves they only function as low side or high side drives. 
 

I would use the expansion loom for the pedal as that has everything you need already there in one bundle - 5V, Gnd, + 2 analogs.  
 
MAF is not supported well for running the engine anyhow - mostly only connected for logging so that is not needed.  Narrowband O2 is not needed assuming you dont have a catalytic converter to keep happy, so you can use a CAN wideband device.  I would use AN Volt 2 & 6 for the throttle, AN Volt 4 &5 for the pedal.  AN volt 3 can be kept for a wideband or fuel press/oil press or something else in future.    

A half bridge is generally an output that drive both high side and low side, but that term can be used a bit loosely in some circles.  It is not needed for VTC, just a conventional low side drive aux is all that is needed.  Connect one wire to any spare aux output (Aux 1-10) and the other side to ign switched +12V supply.  

It is nicer if you dont.  If anyone is looking for help on the same topic in future and find old related posts, they are a lot less helpful when all the relevant files have been deleted.  

The flare after startup is most likely the start-up step too high.  Try halving that to see if it helps.  
For the rev hang coming to a stop - yes a lot of that should improve if you lift the idle ign RPM lockout up to around 1700, and the speed lockout up to about 20kmh.
I would probably change idle control over to closed loop also, your open loop stuff all looks pretty good so it shouldnt need much extra work to get closed loop working nice.

Cant really tell much from the pic above, it doesnt even have TPS or TPS delta on it so you cant see where the throttle is moving.  If you needed more accel fuel for smaller movements without making larger movements too rich then the general idea would be to increase sens and hold and reduce clamp.