Adamw

Reduce the startup step.  >Idle speed control>Idle up tables>Start up step table. 

You could do the WOT hold at power up, or set up something like your AC switch to clear faults.  From memory with E-throttle faults you have to power cycle ign after clearing the fault.  

 
Load in the attached logging set.
E-throttle diag.llsx

You could do the WOT hold at power up, or set up something like your AC switch to clear faults.  From memory with E-throttle faults you have to power cycle ign after clearing the fault.  

 
Load in the attached logging set.
E-throttle diag.llsx

To give a bit of theory; for combustion you need fuel vapor, the burning rate of liquid fuel is too slow to create combustion on its own.  Fuels like petrol/gasoline have a high vapor pressure which means they readily create lots of vapor even at low temps with very little encouragement.  You can have big ass injectors with poor atomisation and a poor tune and it will still light up easy.  Ethanol on the other hand has a very low vapor pressure and at low temps it barely generates any vapor at all.  When only a very small percentage of that liquid fuel is vaporising then to get enough vapor for combustion the common strategy is just dump lots of fuel in.  However just "dumping lots of fuel in" only goes so far - you get to a point where to get enough vapour you will end up with too much liquid fuel in the port and chamber and igniting that becomes very difficult and you go backwards.  
OEM cars designed to run on flex fuel will use strategies to encourage more vapor such as a small injector with a fine atomisation often coupled with high fuel pressure and strategies such as timing the injection event while port velocity is highest or timing the injection event when maximum port vacuum occurs.  Even with those tricks however high ethanol content cold start is still very troublesome - this is why in most countries with even moderate climates the fuel suppliers drop ethanol content in winter.  The extra little bit of petrol is needed to create enough vapor.   In countries like Brazil where they run on E100 they use special heated injectors with fine atomisation to generate vapor to aid cold start. 
So, in a performance situation where you often have large injectors with poor atomisation (or even just less than perfect) then the odds are against you.  If you are already at 600% enrichment then I dont think just dumping in more fuel will help.  You need to look at other ways to increase fuel vapor in the combustion chamber.
 
 

Measure the resistance of the solenoid to be sure, but if it only pulls 3.5A an injector drive should do it.  

This changed from G4+ to G4X.  
With a stepper motor idle valve the "home position" is fully open.  So in the older G4+ ecu when using a stepper motor the number in the base position table represented "steps from fully open".  i.e. a smaller number is more open.  However, a solenoid type idle vale the home position is closed - so in G4+ the numbers in the base position table when using a solenoid valve represented "percentage open" so effectively worked in reverse to a stepper.  This obviously was not particularly intuitive.
So in G4X we changed this convention by adding a "max steps" setting and doing a bit more math in the background to make it more logical.  The G4X base position table now always represents "percentage open" regardless of the type of valve.  This means a bigger number is always more open and now the same table can be used regardless of idle valve type - a solenoid or stepper will all have a base position table that works in the same way.   
Your MAP attached above is correct with larger numbers/more open when cold

Unfortuneately I dont have a confident answer for you.  Our notes from our old engineer who originally developed the TT plug-in just says "AEB not compatible", but doesn't give a specific reason why.  I don't know if it is only the throttle & idle control system that is different or there are other pinout differences.  

I discussed today with the firmware engineers.  It seems there is some variation in the timing of the edges received on the cam trigger.  We are not sure if this is a sensor/electrical issue or camshaft acceleration from loose belt or valve springs etc.  Of course 3Cyl with only 3 teeth on the cam is the worst case as the ecu is only getting a position update every 240degs of crankshaft rotation.  When the ecu receives an edge earlier or later than was predicted based on the time between the last 2 edges then it has to stretch or shrink dwell to ensure the spark occurs at the correct angle.
A couple of examples below.  Edges should be 0/240/480/600/720.  You can see at idle it is pretty close.  But at 2300RPM there is 5deg error on one edge.
Idle:
 
 
2300RPM:

 
Vaughan also noticed your older trigger scopes have a higher voltage on trigger 1 and a much sharper waveform.  Example below - old engine on left. 
From memory you may have had the OEM ecu piggy back?  Can you try adding a 1kohm pull-up resistor between 5V and trigger 1 to see if that makes the waveform more accurate.

use something like googledrive/onedrive/dropbox or similar, upload your files to that then get a share link and paste here.

Did you do a search here:  https://linkecu.com/dealers/dealer-network/  NSW is a big area but off the top of my head there are a few around Sydney & Newcastle etc.  Are you looking to just buy stuff or want tuning?  What model car?

I think what Vaughan was suggesting is something like below.  If Lambda went above 2.00 or below 0.67 there would be no correction allowed.

 

Yep I'm with Vaughan, I have seen this on a few K hondas now, in my case only with stock single throttle though, so im surprised to see it on yours.  In my case it was bang on 8400RPM.  I discovered this was the problem by putting a scope on the throttle measuring both voltage and current, at 8400 you would see the voltage stay constant (ie ecu is still sending out full power) but the current suddenly drop (motor winding is disconnected).  On one it had an aftermarket bottom pulley, so fitting a proper damper fixed it.  On the other from memory is still had the stock front pulley but we put a brace under the manifold and that allowed it to work.  So they must have a real harsh resonance around that RPM.  
I know the R35 GTR suffers from the same problem and on those the common fix is they fit a rubber spacer under the throttle body.  So you might be able to cushion your motor mount somehow or if if doesnt have a harmonic damper I would look at that - it cant be good for the crankshaft at the same time.   

Quicktune is really designed for use on the dyno where you can hold the engine relatively steady in a single cell.  Cell tolerance is how close you need to be to the center of the cell before the ecu makes adjustments.  A smaller tolerance means you need to be closer to the center.  50% means you need to be at least within halfway between the center of the cell and the edge of the cell.  You might be better using the mixture map or long term fuel trim to tune fuel from logs.  Generally a bit of both, you need the idle close enough so that it is drivable, but the bulk of the idle tuning would be done after you have the fuel and ign good.  You would generally have all the cells that it bounces around between at idle with the same value in them.  Highlight the whole lot and adjust them together.   For you to be able to tune fuel you would need the correct amount of air entering the engine to achieve the idle speed you want.  So ISC would generally have to be working to achieve that.  
 

Yeah, we are having an internal discussion how best to handle this.  Let me think about it for a few days.  

I have found it varies a bit with the drivers style.   I have it set to 20kmh in my car as I tend to push in the clutch and coast up to traffic lights etc.  So I want idle control to kick in and get the idle speed correct while im coasting. 
But in the past I have set up something similar on other cars that I have tuned and I would have the odd guy come back saying "my car stalls all the time coming up to lights".  Then I would test drive it forever and couldnt get it to happen.  I got one guy to take me for a drive one day and I found he would have the clutch out with the wheels driving the engine almost right up to the stop and only push in the clutch at the last second.  So with the ISC kicking in at say 20kmh while the engine was being driven by the wheels, the ecu would close the valve more and more trying to get the RPM down, then when the clutch went in and there was no drive acting on the engine it would instantly stall as the idle valve was too closed.  For these types of drivers the speed lockout needs to be lower - something like 10kmh.  

Setup looks ok to me.  Note to test you dont need the engine running, just go to >analog inputs>lambda 1 and enable "run when stalled".

The under shoot is mostly idle base position.  The base position is the position that the idle valve moves to when you are outside of idle conditions - the starting point from where closed loop takes over when idle conditions are met.  If you look at the pic below with it idling at the correct RPM when warm in closed loop the idle valve is sitting at 75%.  Yet in your map the base position table for that temp only had 65% in it - so when the idle meets all the lockout conditions the valve is too closed.  I have tweaked that base position table a bit.  
 
 
I think the "hang" or slow return to idle after a blip is just a bit too much advance around the 1500-2500RPM range in the main ign table.  So even with the throttle closed and the idle valve closed more than it should be, the engine is still making more torque than it needs.  I have dropped that back a bit in the attached map.  Increasing the idle base position may make this effect worse so we will just have to see.  
I have made a few other small changes.  You can see what I have changed by using the file compare function.  
For the Fans running all the time - the log shows all fan statuses as off so that suggests one of our active state settings is probably wrong.  Go to the engine fan settings and try changing the Aux 1 and Ign 4 active state settings to the opposite and see if one of those switches the fan/s off.  In my evo one aux is set to high and one is set to low - but mine is using a wire-in ECU so I dont remember how that compares to the plug-in.  
 
 
 
basecal4testfromforum V2.pclx

You can do 2 bank closed loop lambda control or 2 bank narrow band control on a 6 cyl if you wish (ie correct 3 front cylinders and 3 rear cylinders separately).  Most people would just use a single wideband after the collector.  

Can you attach your dash config and ecu map.  

It needs to be a latching switch for antitheft with the G4+.  Note you should be able to find something pretty similar in latching format.  Example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001334634778.html
 

No, it is just a limitation in their software/firmware.  Possibly to stop ID clashes.  
But it tells you in the software if you assign a keypad to CAN2 all other CAN2 functions are disabled.

This should work.  Set H-bridge device up like below.  With this set up Connect 1A output to pump -, connect 1B output to pump +.  1B will output constant 12V, 1A will PWM the ground side of the motor according to commanded CAN Aux duty cycle in ECU. 
 

 
CAN Mode tab:

 
CAN Stream:

For sensors it is best to use sensor ground as there will be an offset between chassis ground and ecu ground depending on how much current is passing through the chassis connections and the ecu wiring.  

Has it got a ground cable all the way from the battery to the engine?  If not I have seen that cause large voltage drops as the chassis gets older. 
One other thing you can try which might stop the ecu from shutting down - pin 4 controls the main relay, it may be the big drop in voltage at the start of cranking that is causing this control circuit to switch off the main relay.  Get something like a paper clip pushed in to touch the terminal on ecu/loom pin 4, Connect this pin to ground then the main relay will be permanently engaged.  See if it still disconnects when cranking like that.

Note in G4X you can invert the logic on the PWM outputs using the "Active state" setting.  So rather than work backwards like you had to in G4+, you could make it more intuitive with 0% being fan off and 100% being full speed.