Brad Burnett

Outside closed loop control range.  If the rpm hangs to high it won’t try to correct. 

cool .. Was trying to get ideas  for my turbo/rewire thats about to happen.  The idea of a maf sensor for this very purpose was on the table.  But id be concerned with maxing it out in the turbo application as im not going to be running any huge pipes.

@Khaled Abdurhman What vehicle do you have?  Some vehicles tps is only an idle switch and wot switch, for example early model MX5 miatas.

latency will not do what you are after

Its usually a variable resistance sender.  Should be able to use just about anything and feed it in on a spare AN input.  Will need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v reference as most are 2 wire.
Then just see what it does outside the tank and create a calibration based on that.  Most older units are not going to be a linear calibration so you will want to check multiple points from empty to full.
Outside of that it should be relatively easy to get it on the CAN bus and on its way to the dash.
 

I find it funny you didnt bother to try to rectify the incorrect distributor position before doing all the extra work and spending money on COP.

Yep, i have S54 throttle motor on my 3s Beams with black top 20v ITBs.
I even wired in a cruise control switch from a 350z last week and now have full functional cruise control with DBW itbs.  It makes my 25 min commute to work at 85mph quite comfortable.

ID has several data sets for the 1000cc units.  Use the values for either efi live or hp tuners.  The link ecu uses the same axis break points as a GM ecu.

I suspect that the calibration may need a bit more post start or warmup enrichment fueling.

diagrams are in the help file in the software.

I would suggest switching to the bosch wideband sensor.  Or you will need to better dial in the knock frequency.

What knock sensor are you using?

I would suggest switching to the bosch wideband sensor.  Or you will need to better dial in the knock frequency.

from my experience with the quad cam avcs, full throttle pull, exhaust cam will sit around 25-30deg.
when adam says the thing is rich, .65 is way to rich and I bet is causing misfire.  These engines work better around .78-.8 lambda.

From the initial post, it appears that he may be having trouble syncing the ignition timing for the triggers.
Would that be correct @Bikeyourride?

I would try a different map sensor.  
May also want to see if there are any other trouble codes in the ecu.  

The s13 base cal in the software should be good enough to get you moving with some small adjustments.

Yes you can do that.
I did it with my 3sge beams Altezza plug in when I went to ITBs.  Although now I have made the ITBs DBW.  LOL.

There is a ton of information right at everyones finger tips...….
From the help file

If you couldn't find the sensor data you weren't looking very hard.
https://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-2010 Sensor Data.pdf

UnicornGarage, I know what you mean.  Im a dealer as well and had no idea that they were re-releasing the ethrottle modules.  
Its really not new, they used to sell them way back with the G4 stuff.  I actually have an old one still sitting on the shelf.

To get any where with this, you will need to post the current calibration and log showing the fault.

My 1uz with ITBs did this a bit too.  I would look at throttle sync for sure.
I had my throttle syncd pretty sweet for idle and WOT so I just used the individual cylinder trims to clean up the mid range variance.  

I see just over 5 KPA pressure drop as an example.  I find the pressure slope of the turbosmart 1200 to be very good, that's what I use. 
 
I would try a better quality fuel pressure regulator and rewire the fuel pump using a realy close to the pump with large gauge wiring.

Pull the number one coil out and put a HT lead between the coil and the plug.