Adamw

Unfortunately that triggerscope file doesnt have any data in it - it looks like it was captured before the engine was cranking. Can you do us a new one so it looks just like your screen shot above, then click the save button. The saved file contains more data about what part of the waveform the ecu is not happy with.

Yeah Im not convinced the cam movement would be the issue either. In VVT engines you can move the cams around 40 or 60degs in some cases without much consequence. As for the other comments about knock control, it is actually pretty rare to use knock control when tuning as it will often work against you - pulling timing out when you add timing and adding timing when you remove timing etc (a bit like trying to tune a fuel map with CLL enabled). So it is normal to tune the ignition map with knock control off, then enable it and tune knock control only after you have a known knock free map.

Im not real knowledgeable with RB25's but as far as I remember they dont even have a position sensor on the VCT cam, so there is no way to see cam position in the ECU software. If you put the VCT aux into test mode when idling I would expect you should hear the difference if it is moving - it will run rougher or lambda will change etc.

An upgraded sensor to the stock MAP wiring is perfectly fine. All analog inputs are equal and capable of the same functions.

The old school VDO style 2 wire pressure sensors are pretty horible things. The calibration changes with temperature etc. You could tap into the signal wire but you would have to determine the calibration yourself. Personally I would look at a reputable 3 wire sensor with known calibration (not a no brand alliexpress one...).

That's weird, the majority of road cars since 2005 use ISO15765. It is not clear how the device works from there website, it shows a motor similar to a common electric window motor, but I dont know how they determine position. Does it have a separate position sensor? Suspect they may just be using a timer which is a bit odd, it will go to a different position every time depending on battery voltage and friction etc. You could just use a couple of relays and a timer if you just want either fully open or fully closed.

Can you attach the trigger scope log file, rather than just a screen shot.

For a supra plug-in you will need the CANJST cable, https://dealers.linkecu.com/ADA_2. It doesnt come with the mating female receptacle, you can buy that separately (https://dealers.linkecu.com/DTM4F), or you will probably find it locally pretty easily too.

I guessed that. I wanted to know what specific G4X you have as the cables you will need to connect to the CAN will vary with model.

You need to contact the dealer that supplied the ecu for the unlock code.

What ecu do you have?

I suspect you may have 2 problems. Error 26 is usually caused by the battery voltage dropping very low during cranking. This error gets latched even if battery voltage comes back to acceptable quickly, just so you know it happened. It wont prevent the lambda from operating correctly. The lean lambda in the later log may suggest you have an air leak in the exhaust system somewhere. It could potentially be a failed sensor but it would be pretty rare for a sensor to fail with no other errors and the CAN lambda still happily reporting measured lambda.

They are effectively a two wire sensor with a solidstate drive inside. Treat it just like a common two wire solenoid. A single aux connected to the signal wire, aux set to ÏSC solenoid" in the software. 200Hz will do it.

No you need both, you have two problems: The trigger mode currently ignores the cam sensor. Your cam sensor in not outputting a suitable voltage level to be detected by an ecu - even if the trigger mode used the cam sensor it wouldnt "see" it

Make the control range smaller and cut decay time smaller. You may have to increase start cut also. I suggest temporarily set the RPM limit to something lower like 4000RPM so you can experiment a bit without it screaming its brains out. I dont like to suggest settings as a harsh limit is also harsh on the engine.

Firstly, before you get too much further with your fuel tune, you should turn off the IAT trim table, and set up the charge temp table as per the example in the help file. For such small injectors you can set the min effective PW to zero as you will likely never get close to running near there min PW. Typically only needed once you get above about 1000cc/min. During cranking the Idle Ignition target is used. Yours is set at 15deg so I wouldnt have expected that to be an issue with these old hemi heads. You could temporarily set it to 5deg to see if that is the cause of the slow cranking, but my guess is it is probably more likely something like heat affecting the starter motor. Auto mode works much nicer. You can also enable the long term trim which will build up a correction table over time that you can use to correct your fuel table later. There should be pink cross hairs showing where you where working in the tables. Here is a video showing some other fuel table tuning options: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPszz5hTxJ8ec0MitL?e=m03Jvy

The ecu grounds the solenoid, so the other side must go to 12V.

So do you hear the injectors click when you run the test? And coils spark? That would suggest the ECU is ok. Do you have RPM showing in the software when cranking? Have a read of this for some pointers: https://linkecuhelp.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/1500001810341-My-engine-won-t-start

The 3 pin sensor is actually 2 temp sensors in one. One wire does the ecu and the other does the dash gauge. The ECU one uses the Std Bosch NTC calibration, Im not sure about the temp gauge side. Is it the ecu or dash that is showing it is hot - or both?

What specific ecu are you referring to?

Your engine will be randomly syncing 360 deg out because this trigger mode doesnt yet support a cam sensor. I will pass your trigger scope on to engineering to add this functionality and let you know when I have some new firmware you can test. Also your cam sensor is outputting very low voltage - probably too low to ever work reliably so that needs fixing too. I dont know what the sensor is like in these engines - is it possible to reduce the sensor air gap somehow?

Looks like you need to run the TP calibration.

So with ignition switch on, if you ground relay pin 85 with a small piece of wire or similar, does the fuel pump run?

Pin 1 & pin 38 are connected together internally. So O2 heater runs whenever the fuel pump runs. These pins are controlled by Aux 8.

Wrong setting, you should be in >speed sources >set up. And looking at "driven wheel speed source".