Adamw

They said they were going to send me a beta to test when it was ready so I dont think it is done yet.

Yes, that is what I was suggesting. Perhaps my wording could have been better.

Most nissan speedo's expect an AC signal from a VR sensor (speedo would originally had a 2 wire sensor connected), rather than a square wave that an aux would generate. You can try this circuit:

Polarity is correct now. Yes it does look a bit noisier than expected. Sometimes they look a bit crappy during cranking but lear up when running. Looks similar to what this guy had, but not sure on what he found:

Yeah 25ms master is unusually high for 750cc injectors based on the rest of your set up. I would generally expect it to need about half that. So it suggests you are getting much less than 750cc of flow - either the injectors are smaller than you believe or something like the fuel pressure is very low. Maf is not being used in the fuel calc.

E-throttle motor needs to be connected to Aux 9 & 10. Flex fuel sensor needs to be connected to a Digital input, not analog. Boost solenoid should be connected to ign switched +12V on one side and aux on the other. You need Aux 9 for the E-throttle so you will need a different aux for the boost solenoid - usually Aux 7 on the S13.

Sounds like there is little to no voltage change reaching the analog input pin. Most likely a wiring issue. Hit F12 to open the runtimes screen and go to the analog tab, you can see the raw voltage there. I would expect to see at least say 3V change from open to closed.

Sensor is wired wrong polarity, swap the +/- wires and it should be closer to working. The rest of the setup looks ok.

one clutch pin needs to be connected to an ignition switched 12V source, the other to an aux.

It looks like you have a reluctor cam sensor but it is set to opto/hall. Can you set trig 2 to reluctor and do another trigger scope. For the injectors you would want to wire both inj drive 1 & 2 to injector 1 and drive 3&4 to inj 2.

APS and TPS can go to any spare analog inputs, you assign them in the e-throttle settings. The motor must use aux 9 & 10. The Clutch can use any spare aux, injector or ignition drive. Set the "e-throttle relay output" to whichever aux you wire to the clutch.

I think possibly too much fuel. Drop the master fuel number by say 30% and try again.

Nah I dont see anything obvious, there is a jump in MAP and consequently inj PW right on the 6min mark but after that it is pretty stable. Is it more stable if you richen it up?

I wouldnt expect the injector data would have a big effect provided battery voltage is reasonably stable. I noticed the injector timing it pretty odd also, again it may have been the tuner playing with things trying to improve the problem, but a more typical injector timing would be 360-400BTDC.

Static voltage would suggest the pinout is wrong. I have seen some mitsi wiring diagrams that have the numbering reversed compared to what is molded on the connector so the first thing I would try is reverse the pinout - ie swap position 6 with position 1.

Looks normal to me. Usually the voltage span on one sensor is half the span of the other sensor. Swap the tp main and sub as its better to have the larger range as the main but that wont make any difference to the control. If its oscillating then you or your tuner need to tune the PID.

Your accel enrichment looks way over done to me. I rarely see accel enrichment values more than about 40% on a single throttle engine, you have like 150%... It is unknown what the tuner has tried though and how he arrived at those numbers. There are some very odd dramatic changes in your fuel tables too that will possibly make tuning accel difficult.

The stock sensor is a 13Khz narrow band, but you still get noise coming through at other frequencies. 7 or 8Khz usually works well on evos, I have mine set to 8. Below is a frequency spectrogram from an evo, (taken from the Motec SKM manual), you can see the difference in energy level between background noise and knock is much more distinct at 7K than it is 13K:

Yes, just put gear on 1 axis of your base DC table. Or if you want more control variables you can switch between 3 different base tables, say have 1 for 1st & 2nd, change to table 2 for 3rd & 4th and table 3 for top gear.

The most common mistake I see with new users is not taking advantage of keyboard shortcuts and the layouts/pages and creating custom pages that match how they work. I suggest start by going to >layouts>load layout and load either the 768*1366 or the 1920*1080 one depending on your screen res as these are a good starting point. Then go to >help>keyboard shortcuts and learn a few of the common ones. Some common ones I use as examples: F2 to save, F3 to connect, F4 to store, F8 to start/stop logging etc. K to swap between tabular or surface view, M for quick trim, Ctrl Z to undo last change, Space bar to jump to active cell, [ and ] to move between pages, etc. These will greatly speed up your tuning and satisfaction. Also I generally like to keep the ECU settings tree pinned out - but that has both pros and cons. Also, this is an old video so a few things have changed to give more options for table views, but this will help you understand how to have multiple copies of the same table open: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs

Yes to both questions. If the AEM gauge has a separate "analog ground" then it would be best to connect this to an ecu sensor ground also.

Yes the toyota clutched throttle works fine. Set up and wiiring info is in the help file: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Analog Inputs > Throttle/Accelerator Position Sensors > Specific TPS/APS Applications > Toyota Clutched Electronic Throttle Its actually fully DBW, it only switches over to cable operation when the ecu puts it into limp mode (disables the clutch).

On the evo 9 ecu the ignition outputs 3 & 4 are originally used for the fuel pump and fan. So you need to shuffle a few wires around to move the fuel pump and fan to spare outputs to free up ign 3 &4. Then run new trigger wires from ecu up to coil 3 & 4. Be aware however in a typical performance road car engine there is not a lot to gain from going to direct spark Vs wasted. It is not until you get up to quite high RPM (~9000+) that wasted spark may start to be a restriction. Coils may run a bit hotter and therefore give a shorter life when used wasted compared to direct spark, but thats really the only negative.

Really need to see the actual log to get enough detail, but by eye the inj PW looks stable (ie fuel flow per intake event is stable), provided RPM & MAP is stable (air flow is stable) then you would expect a stable lambda. Possibly a little on the lean side so you have intermittent incomplete combustion events on the leanest cyl. Remember the Lambda is the average of all cylinders, you can potentially have 3 that are 5% richer than average and 1 that is 15% leaner...

Notice that with your charge temp approximation at 0% the lambda is heading leaner as charge temp increases. Whereas in the lower pic with the charge temp approximation at 100% the lambda is heading richer as the charge temp increases. So your correct value is somewhere between these two examples. This is because in the first test for your 20°C rise of IAT the approximated charge temp has risen also by 20°C. Based on rough ideal gas law numbers the ecu would remove about 8% fuel for this 20°C rise. In the second test, you have a similar 20°C rise in IAT, but this time because your charge temp is biased more towards coolant your charge temp has only raised by about 9°C, so the ecu would have removed only about 3.5% fuel. I cant see the numbers well enough but it looks like the lambda in the first test increased by about the same amount as the lambda decreased in the second test, so your correct value is probably somewhere about half way between these two. Yes it is a pain in the arse that changing the charge temp approximation messes up the fuel map, but there is really no way around that.