Adamw

Can you do a log of a start attempt. Stalling after a few seconds would often indicate there is not enough fuel so it is only running when the extra pre-crank prime and crank enrichment fuel is being added. What size injectors does it have?

Thinking about this when I was writing up the task last night - cant you just log the status of whatever you have set for the table 2 activation?

Your set up looks ok to me. Is it definitely connected to the CAN1 round 6pin port? Those stream files come from one of our old techs that has since left so I dont know where the info came from and if it has been successfully used before. Haltech will probably give me the info if I ask however. Can you confirm it is connected to CAN 1 first, it is showing transmit errors which suggests the dash stream you have set up is not connected to that port.

What are you worried about? There are mechanical stops so the cam cant over advance, the cam should be able to move from fully retarded to fully advanced at any time. Generally you would start the engine, turn on the cam angle test, set the offset, then tune the control if required.

You can pretty much use anything that is capable of the current. Most set ups I have seen using fuel pump control use the generic open loop PWM fuel pump control mode with a generic industrial solid state relay or an OEM fuel pump control module such as the Jaguar/landrover controller but they are getting hard to find now. I have seen some use Fan controllers such as the mitsubishi or Chrysler/Dodge ones but the problem with these is they are designed to fail with the contacts closed (so fan keeps running) which isnt ideal for a fuel pump. I have this on my injector test bench and it has been going for a few years: https://www.jaycar.co.nz/solid-state-relay-4-32vdc-input-30vdc-100a-switching/p/SY4086?pos=13&queryId=2f6d574c40939344b9939a1fc80dc416&sort=relevance#

Did you try both the key start and button start CAN stream? These two variations have a small difference in the ABS messages, if you have the wrong one the ABS lamp will remain on. Note you need to key off/on after changing the setting for the chassis to see the changes.

You dont even have the CAN enabled in your map. You need to go to >ecu controls>CAN setup and set CAN module 2 to one of the WRX choices. If the ABS light remains on, try the alternate one. You need to key off and back on again after changing the CAN settings for the dash to fully work.

Yes. Load the "Default 1366 x 768" layout and you will have a page named knock, this should have most of what you need displayed. You have to enable knock and set up some basic settings, assign trim tables etc. No. Do you mean -ve battery post? That would be ok.

I havent had any trouble with the CAN in any GR I have tested. Temp gauge at max suggests the dash is not seeing any CAN at all. Are wheel speeds and brake pressure, handbrake etc working in the software? Can you attach your tune.

Depending how much current the module requires the aux 2 may work, they have a 1.5K pull-up to 12V so it will be enough to drive most solid state type controllers.

You need to assign any spare aux to E-throttle relay, but you dont need to wire any relay. Attach your tune and a log if you need further help.

Here are the two stream files, set them up on the ID's in the file name. Bitrate = 1Mb/s Haltech_TC8_1to4_id730.lcs Haltech_TC8_5to8_id731.lcs

A G4 storm doesnt have built-in knock control as far as I remember. You had to connect the old "knock block" device to it to do the processing.

If you had advance commanded in your target table and all the lockout conditions where met then yes it will go to whatever target you are commanding. If the offsets arent set how does the ecu know where zero is? "zero" may be 10 deg advanced if your offsets were out by 10deg.

Yeah but the datasheet shows the "electrical angle mid point" is centered on the cable centerline which is obviously wrong for this particular sensor.

Keep a watch on trigger 1 error counter - also note how stable the reported dwell is. If dwell is bouncing around that usually suggests the ecu isnt happy with the trigger signal.

As I already mentioned, in traditional equation the stoichiometric ratio setting has no influence on fuel control or CLL. The only thing it effects is the conversion from lambda to AFR units for display on the gauges etc. Stick to using lambda instead of AFR will cause you less confusion. Or if you must use always AFR then use 14.7: stoich ratio setting and always aim for gasoline AFR target numbers regardless of fuel. CLL will work the same using either equation.

All ecu's work this way. Connect the aux to the "sig in".

I will add this to the list as a feature to consider.

The solenoid is disabled when the cam angle test is enabled, so the cam should return to is home position during the test.

The binder connector is not needed in your case, you will be connecting directly to the 23pin amp plug. The binder connectors are used on the optional loom that AiM sell for the 23pin plug.

This is how OBD2 works. it is a request to send protocol. The ecu will not send out any CAN data until the OBD2 "scanner" requests the data. This is why your lamp doesnt show any activity. The steering wheel needs to request the data that it wants before the ecu will send any data.

Although the WRX107 pinout is similar to some of the basic GR chassis models, there are quite a few variations of the GR, especially STI models and some of them wont work or will have some items that dont work. For example the GR's with 4 x AVCS cams the exhaust cams will not work with the WRX107 ecu. The GR's with cruise control the cruise will not work with the WRX107 ecu. The GR's with push button start the starter will not work with the WRX107 ecu, The GR's with the air temp sensor in the manifold will not work with the WRX107 ecu. It wont work at all for the LHD models that have the Hitachi ECU. We do have a proper GR plug-in ecu coming out in the near future for the 2008-2011 models that have a Denso ecu.

One side of the device should be connected to 12V, the ecu controls the ground side of the device. Devices such as idle valve, vvt & boost solenoids are connected directly like this: High current devices such as fuel pumps and fans are connected like this:

The cam sensor is wired reverse polarity - swap the +/- wires at the cam sensor plug. The crank sensor is a bit more difficult to tell for sure, but I suspect that is also reversed. Pin 1 is positive, pin 2 is ground.